View Coffee ... Yes, Italian! flipbook.
original photographs by marek.jancuch@gmail.com
Once upon a time, there was a dream: mine was born in Trieste at the end of the 1970s, when I entered the green coffee sector at Tropical Corporation. Here, I acquired skills in classification and sensory analysis of coffee, then enriched by international experiences such as Sintercafé in Costa Rica (1994) and teaching for Slow Food in Tokyo (2007). During this time, I accumulated knowledge, publications, documents and coffee-related objects, forming the nucleus of a museum. In 2001, the Port Authority of Trieste granted me a temporary space to house the collection, marking the beginning of the museum's development. Since 2004, we have twinned with museums and institutions in Europe and beyond. On 14 February 2017, the association Museo del Caffè was officially founded in Trieste with the aim of promoting coffee's cultural heritage by organizing exhibitions, meetings and cultural activities, as well as international collaborations to preserve and disseminate its culture. Ten years after its foundation, my dream has become a shared project open to the world. Gianni Pistrini, president and founder This booklet was published in Slovak as a catalogue of the exhibition "Coffee? … Italian!“, promoted by the Italian Cultural Institute in Bratislava in agreement with the Embassy of Italy. Our association Museo del Caffè – Trieste (aMDC) set up the exhibit in the Slovak National Museum in June 2026. This English version is presented here as a popularization support, testifying to the technological steps that have perfected the way of "making coffee" in our homes and public establishments during the last century. Italian ingenuity and creativity have made a significant contribution to this innovation process, which is universally recognized worldwide. We are deeply grateful to the author, Dr. Marino Petracco, for the prompt and effective elaboration. Doriano Simonato, Executive Vice President Coffee unites people, places and regions. It represents cultural diversity in preparation and taste. 'Coffee' conjures exotic and familiar experiences, social and solitary rituals, and a world that is both Italian and Central European. These reasons are not exhaustive, but they have certainly been decisive in my welcome of this exhibition, which focuses on the cultivation, roasting, preparation and consumption of this much-loved drink. It is an exhibition that the public, Slovak and beyond, has shown great appreciation for over recent months. I wish the Trieste Coffee Museum Association, whom I thank for their exemplary spirit of collaboration, every success in continuing their brilliant work of raising awareness and deepening understanding, and I hope they will soon be able to welcome us all to a physical exhibition space in their city. Our Slovak friends love Trieste, which is Italy but also Mitteleuropa! Fabrizio Iurlano, Director of the Italian Cultural Institute in Bratislava
The exhibition "Coffee? … Yes, Italian Style!" is organized by the Association of the Coffee Museum of Trieste, an organization that, although it does not have its own museum, is committed to spreading the culture of coffee through temporary exhibitions, conferences and lessons in schools. This exhibition aims to provide an idea of what the Italian genius has contributed over the centuries to the coffee industry, or rather to the pleasure of enjoying a cup of coffee by consumers all over the world. Let's hear how the curator, Marino Petracco, presents it: "When I heard that someone in Bratislava was asking us to organize an exhibition on the subject of 'Italian coffee', I confess that I said to myself: 'We will have to take just a couple of characteristic objects there, to liven up a weekend of tastings...', and I wondered how this could be part of the mission of our Coffee Museum Association. Shortly after, the surprise: the Italian Minister for Agriculture, who was on an official visit to Slovakia, had also greatly appreciated the initiative to highlight Italy’s contribution to the pleasure of enjoying a good cup of coffee. In fact – I thought – it is well known that the cultivation of coffee takes place in tropical countries, so it has nothing to do with Italy (but... wait...). Italians, however, as great consumers and admirers of the black drink, have over the centuries sharpened their ingenuity to make it more and more aromatic and pleasant. I therefore began to conceive an exhibition in which it would highlight how Italian-style ingenuity – and entrepreneurship – have advanced the industry, but also the sociality linked to the ritual of drinking coffee. Going with my memory to the endless collection of coffee machines collected by the Friulian collector Lucio Del Piccolo, I realized that the ways of preparing the cup typically born in our country are three: the Neapolitan coffee maker, the Moka coffee maker and the Espresso machine. I based my design on these, not neglecting a bit of national pride with the setting up of an ideal journey among the "Italian capitals of coffee": Trieste, the northernmost port of the Mediterranean, Naples, home of the folklore of the "tazzulella", Milan and its industrial hinterland, ending with Sicily where... please, wait a minute...!" What did "Italian genius" give to coffee? Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
It is not surprising that most of the merchandise from the Levant and bound for the countries of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which ranged as far as Poland, Ukraine, and Romania, had to pass through Trieste. The quays of the canal port were crowded with sailing ships of all tonnages, which later gave way to large steamships also arriving from the new producing countries of South America. The increase in traffic progressively transformed the port activities, building docks where larger and larger steamers could dock, and extensive warehouses specialized in the various commodities. More railway lines were built inland (Südbahn 1859, Transalpina 1901). Insurance companies appeared, following the example of Lloyd's of London (1720), and flourished: it should be remembered that the three large companies of today (Generali, 1831; Loyd, 1833; RAS, 1838) were born in Austrian Trieste and continue to have their headquarters there. Shrewd entrepreneurs established coffee roasting, packaging and international coffee marketing industries: it is worth mentioning only the names of Hausbrandt and Illy. In 1859 a group of coffee importers created the "gremio": a kind of free association for communication and information on legislative acts, which worked intensively to establish the "Coffee and Colonial Futures Exchange" in the city when the Viennese Empire granted the "patent" for internationalization. Trieste, the city of the Habsburg port Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste Trieste, a seaside city, has always been the northernmost commercial port of the Mediterranean Sea. After the splendor of Venice in the Serenissima Republic of San Marco, which had always only looked south for its trade, Trieste in 1382 began its fortunes by looking north, and dedicating itself to the emperor of the House of Austria. It was thus transformed from a fishing village into the largest commercial port of a vast Central European empire. DID ? YOU KNOW
Trieste, thanks to its role as a Free Port and the main Austro-Hungarian port, is still considered, if not the largest, one of the most important European ports for the trade of precious grains. For this reason, the city was also one of the first in Europe to open coffee shops, landmarks of Enlightenment culture and beyond. In Trieste the first "coffee shops" were opened in the second half of the 1700s; the locals spread along the shores, where merchants and owners of boats and sailing ships gathered. Subsequently, from the second half of the 19th century, places were opened where you could sip coffee, but it was also possible to read local newspapers and Italian, French, German, and English newspapers. They were frequented by the nobility, singers, actors, writers, and were meeting places for young idealists. Some were the gathering spot for irredentists, places that the Austrian authorities did not look favorably on. Today the historic cafes of Trieste are the modern heirs of those places, formerly present in Middle Eastern cities: even today the people of Trieste meet there to chat, study for university exams, and perhaps write famous novels while sipping a "nero", a "capo in bi" or a "goccia": just some of the expressions of the all-Trieste lexicon used to order an espresso or one of its infinite variations. Why is Trieste the "city of coffee"? Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste Coffee, first coming from Constantinople or Alexandria (after a long journey in caravans) and later, after the opening of the Suez Canal (favored by the activity of Baron Revoltella from Trieste, 1869), from Abyssinia, Kenya and Indonesia, was one of the many exotic commodities whose burdens or sacks landed on the city's docks, subsequently giving rise to a local industry of roasting and packaging the finished product to be shipped to the four corners of the vast empire. DID ? YOU KNOW
Few foodstuffs, even of exotic origin and therefore considered rare and precious, have a higher value ratio than raw coffee beans, for the same weight. The operations of embarkation, and especially of unloading, of coffee were therefore formerly entrusted to qualified, and often specialized, labor. The ease of handling of the packaging, formerly made up of bundles of banana leaves, more recently of sacks made of raw jute fabric or similar fibers, was however, compensated by the physical effort that moving a weight of around 50 or 60 kg required. The docker (affectionately called in Trieste "el fachin de porto") was therefore a character of a certain size, and also of a certain social importance, well paid and respected. The dockers formed a coterie that can be seen as a primitive union structure, and they defended their privileges even by communicating with each other in a jargon that at first glance could be incomprehensible to outsiders: simply by altering the order of the syllables of a word, it was made "foreign" to unheard ears. In this way they could order "un troli de cobian" without being understood, and still get "a liter of white" from the innkeeper in the inn of the port. Not only wine, however: it should be noted that in Trieste the habit of ordering the "capo in bi" was born, and widely practiced: coffee in a glass with the addition of milk. It is a custom that originates in the habits of port workers who, handling the coffee from the sacks, took advantage of a few beans that came out and, roasting them with some precarious appliance, prepared it themselves at the end of the work shift. In the absence of the porcelain cups of the wealthy classes, they drank it in the small wine glasses they had with them, possibly adding water and hot milk. The coffee port of Trieste Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
To get the job done, those operators developed a series of specialized tools that often had a somewhat disturbing appearance. You can see some of these tools in the display case. Alongside the unloaders' tools, the most sophisticated tools for assessing the quality and classification of the various batches are on display. Simple but effective tools: The “zata de gato": a multi-pointed hook with a transverse handle used to pull the jute sack towards you by grabbing it in the canvas. The "subio": a long, thin punch with a hollow core used to pick up a sample of grains for analysis and evaluation. Occasionally used for stealing a handful of coffee for home use... The "ago storto": this is a particularly robust sewing needle which is useful for concealing the hole caused by fraudulent use of the above hallmark by mending it approximately. The "brustolin da campo": this is a rotating pan for roasting coffee over the embers in a precarious situation, such as at the base of a pier. The "masinin": this is a hand-cranked coffee grinder which was held tightly between the knees while the lever of the millstones was turned with the arm. Some tools could be used to prepare a cup of coffee during moments of rest, often in inclement weather (such as the famous gusts of “bora”, the impetuous northern wind). Speaking of cups, the “fachini de porto” hardly had delicate porcelain ones: more often, the hastily roasted and ground coffee was infused in simple wine glasses: the “goti”. It is possible that this need led to the creation of the famous “cappuccino alla triestina”, that is to say "el capo in bi" mentioned above. The tools of the Trieste dockers Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
The history of coffee in Naples is truly fascinating. It is believed that Pietro Della Valle, an eclectic figure and erudite traveller with an interest in archaeology, deserves credit for bringing the first seeds to the city from the East at the beginning of the seventeenth century. He spent years visiting the Middle East, Persia and India. A century later, the Habsburg queen consort Maria Carolina introduced coffee to the Bourbon court and aristocratic circles, popularizing it in Viennese cafés. On the other side of the Mediterranean Sea stands a port city of ancient nobility: ideally located to receive traffic from the west, i.e., from the Strait of Gibraltar rather than the Levantine Seas. The tradition of enjoying coffee as a beverage dates back to the early nineteenth century, when large quantities of coffee from South America began arriving at the port and quickly became a popular drink. From this moment on, coffee became a ritual of Neapolitan tradition, a way to treat yourself to a moment of lightheartedness. This tradition grew in popularity and later entered the homes of Neapolitans with the “cuccumella”, the Neapolitan coffee maker. The first patent for a coffee maker of this type was filed in 1819 by a Frenchman, Jean-Louis Morize, a tinsmith from Paris. The coffee maker then spread throughout Italy, particularly among the Neapolitans, who modified and perfected it, ultimately making it their own. According to legend, the first coffee makers were handmade by artisans and were simply called 'Neapolitan'. These early coffee makers were made using materials such as copper and brass. These early versions were simple yet elegant and functional, characteristics that would be seen in later coffee makers. Naples and coffee: the other capital Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
The processing technique was artisanal: the workers shaped the metal by hand to create unique, decorative shapes. Each piece was the result of patient, precise work that required great skill. Around the middle of the 19th century, Neapolitan artisans started using tin (or tinned iron sheet) as the main material for coffee makers. This was due to the cost: tin was cheaper than copper, making coffee makers more accessible to a wider audience. In addition, tin is more resistant to corrosion and high temperatures, which increases the life of coffee makers. The work of the master craftsman is exemplified in the exhibition by a detail of his skilled hands, while they shape the tinplate (vulgo "tin") with the help of very simple tools: the punch, the hammer, the anvil. Truly more art than craftsmanship! Neapolitan artisans used a variety of tools to work the tin, including shears for cutting and hammers for shaping the tin, punches to create holes and decorations, and soldering irons to join the parts of the coffee maker to tin. These tools required great skill and precision, and Neapolitan artisans were renowned for their mastery of working tin. In the post-war period, around the 50s and 60s, the transition to aluminum took place when this metal became more accessible and convenient than tin. Aluminium offered several advantages, including light weight, good heat conduction, as well as high corrosion resistance. Machining aluminium required special techniques, including stamping, welding with aluminium-specific welding techniques, and finally polishing, which made the surface durable and easy to clean. Neapolitan artisans had to adapt to these new processing techniques to produce high-quality aluminum coffee makers. The history of ‘Napoletana’ coffee maker Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
B C A D 1 2 3 4 B C A D D C A D
This is the design of a traditional Neapolitan coffee maker, known as a “cuccumella”. A symbol of Italian tradition and conviviality, it is ideal for making coffee with a light body and full flavour. It consists of four main elements: • the water tank (with handle); • the container for ground coffee; • the filter unit; • the final jug with spout. Unlike the moka, it works by gravity-driven percolation, not steam pressure. The image shows the assembly procedure and the moment when the coffee maker is turned upside down to let the water flow through the coffee. A. Filter and filter cover B. Ground coffee container C. Water tank D. Serving carafe. Here are the steps for use, based on the diagram of the illustrations: 1. Fill the lower tank (C) with water up to about half a centimeter below the side hole. Place the coffee powder in the cylindrical container (B) without pressing it excessively. Screw the fine basket filter (A), over the coffee container (B). Insert the filter unit (A+B) into the water tank (C). Fit the upper part (D), the one with the spout, on top of everything else. 2. Place the coffee maker on the small fire. When you see a trickle of steam coming out of the vent hole, it means that the water has come to a boil. 3. The "voltata": remove the coffee maker from the heat and, grasping the two handles, turn it upside down with a firm stroke. The boiling water will begin to slowly descend through the coffee, collecting in the final reservoir (D). 4. Wait for a few minutes until the percolation is complete. Now the boiling drink can be served, with careful pouring into the cups. How is a ‘Napoletana’ made? Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
The Napoletana coffee maker has become a symbol of Neapolitan culture and coffee tradition in Italy, and continues to be celebrated in films, songs, and works of art. The long history of Neapolitan coffee is studded with great personalities who have praised its qualities and goodness. And they did it in writings, poems, and plays. Many phrases and expressions used in such contexts have entered the everyday lexicon. Neapolitan coffee has been the protagonist of moments dedicated to it in several Italian comedies and films. For example, in the film "La banda degli onesti" (1956) with Totò and Peppino De Filippo, coffee is used as a symbol of honesty and simplicity. In addition, the coffee maker has been mentioned in several songs, such as "O ccafè" by Domenico Modugno and "Na tazzulella 'e cafè" by Pino Daniele. Massimo Troisi also talked about the Neapolitan in his film "No thanks, coffee makes me nervous". Here are some typical phrases that quote the Neapolitan coffee maker: • Home is where the mumbling coffee pot is. • The coffee maker is our link to happiness. • Coffee is an excuse, an excuse to tell a friend that you love them. We cannot overlook the great Eduardo De Filippo, one of the leading experts on Neapolitan things and, of course, on coffee. His most famous aphorism is: "When I die, bring me coffee, and you will see that I rise like Lazarus." The socio-anthropological reflection on the coffee break is also interesting: "I, for example, would give up everything, except for this cup of coffee, taken quietly here, outside the balcony, after that hour of sleep after lunch... coffee must be taken with peace of mind." (These ghosts, 1962). Finally, Eduardo does not forget the importance of the quality of the drink. In fact, turning to his wife, he says "With coffee you don't save" (Christmas in Casa Cupiello, 1931). This means that the Neapolitan can by necessity, economize with everything except coffee: it must always be good, of quality! Napoletana: a protagonist Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
Artificial Intelligence gives him life...
Coffee is a symbol of conviviality and the union of different stories and cultures. People have always marked their days with the coffee ritual. The coffee maker is also a symbol of Italian identity, with a two- century history marked by models of all kinds, brilliant ideas, and companies that have followed the country's history step by step, with varying degrees of success. In the Italian imagination, the coffee par excellence is that prepared with the Moka , which was invented in Italy in the 1930s by Alfonso Bialetti. Every population has always marked its days with the ritual of coffee, and the coffee maker has become a symbol of Italian identity. Spanning two centuries, its history is marked by models of all kinds, brilliant ideas and companies that have, to varying degrees of success, followed the country's history step by step. In the Italian imagination, the coffee par excellence is that prepared with the Moka , invented in Italy in the 1930s by Alfonso Bialetti. The Napoletana coffee maker was gradually replaced in Italian kitchens by this revolutionary tool, which quickly became the most popular method of preparing coffee at home in Italy. However, it has been challenged in the last decade by the introduction of automatic pod and capsule machines. Inconspicuous and unassuming, it soon became a symbol of Italy around the world, with an example in the permanent collection of the MoMA in New York. This small, octagonal instrument is named after the Yemeni port city of Al-Mukha: a small, insignificant port village, in the governorate of Ta'izz, formerly known as Moka. This coffee-extraction revolution can be traced back to the ingenious application of a principle first illustrated by the physicist Denis Papin in 1679 and then put into practice by George Stephenson in 1812: the steam boiler. Although the paternity of this idea is attributed to Alfonso Bialetti, an industrialist who worked in the aluminium sector, the real inventor seems to have been Amleto Spadini, as documented by Mauro Lapetina in his book “The Lost Coffee Maker”. The Moka, daughter of northern Italy Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
Although Amleto Spadini is widely regarded as the inventor of the Moka coffee maker, Bialetti played a crucial role in developing and marketing the product. Years of bombings, famines, and compulsory conscription were forgotten, and this was decisive for coffee machines too. Many companies did not survive the sacrifices imposed by the conflict, losing owners, workers, and factories. However, after 1945, Italy gradually regained its prosperity, and the design industry experienced a golden age. In 1948, Alfonso, the owner of a semi-finished aluminium workshop in Crusinallo, Piedmont, launched a coffee maker and named it after Mocha, a city in Yemen renowned for the coffee trade since ancient times. It is said that the idea for its design came to Alfonso while observing that all previous coffee makers required an external container to collect the coffee once ready. His design allowed the coffee to remain inside the machine until it was poured into cups. The great revolution actually lays in Alfonso's mastery of aluminium casting techniques, specifically the "shell jet" method, which made it possible to build sealed containers capable of withstanding steam pressure without exploding. Its success was decreed by the "autarchic" aluminium with which it was made, its ease of use, and the fact that the coffee did not undergo temperatures that would make it bitter. It also inspired new models. Who was the true father of the Moka? Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste Bialetti was also the star of Carosello, a cult Italian television programme from the 1950s to the 1970s. In 1958, his son Renato — a genius of advertising — introduced adults and children to the little moustachioed man designed by Paul Campani (based on Siur Renato): "Yes, yes, yes... it's easy!" he said, promising that the Moka Express coffee maker, available in five sizes, would guarantee "an espresso like the ones you get in bars" and, sketch after sketch, transforming into a symbol of Italian coffee culture. DID ? YOU KNOW
Instructions for use: • Fill the lower tank with fresh water up to the indicated level. • Insert the filter into the tank and fill it with ground coffee (about 7–9 grams for a standard Moka). • Screw the upper tank to the lower tank. • Place the Moka pot on medium-low heat. • When the water starts to boil, the coffee will rise in the upper tank accompanied by a characteristic gurgling sound. • When the coffee is ready, turn off the heat and remove the Moka pot from the flame. • Pour the coffee into cups and serve. But don't be fooled by its apparent simplicity! In reality, these are rather indeterminate rules which leave ample room for the operator to produce either an excellent or a detestable drink. It is no coincidence that a coffee expert once described the Moka as a 'diabolical tool and amplifier of errors’. The Moka pot consists of three parts: a water tank, a coffee filter, and an upper carafe for serving the coffee. When the water boils, the steam pushes the boiling water at high pressure through the ground coffee in a funnel, and the drink collects in the tight-fitting carafe above. The secret lies in the fact that under atmospheric pressure, water boils at 100°C (as defined by the Celsius temperature scale), but in order to pass through the compact bed of ground coffee, it must exert extra pressure and consequently raise the temperature to 105°. This extra energy, expended inside the coffee granules, extracts the aromatic substances more vigorously, together with surfactants that favour the formation of light foam — the famous crema — which characterizes drinks produced with this tool. For comparison, the Neapolitan coffee maker provides ground coffee with a pressure equal to the geometric height of the hot water above it — a few centimetres of water column — compared to the ten metres of atmospheric pressure: a hundred times as much! How does a Moka pot work? Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
We all are jealous of our "secrets" to a better preparation: • fill the tank to the brim, to the valve or even less; • make a "mound" of coffee in the filter. • make a few holes in the coffee; • use a small or large gas fire. • use an electric or induction hob. • leave the lid (half) open. • let the Moka 'mumble' and splash until the kitchen is covered in coffee. • alternatively, remove it from the heat as soon as you hear a small rumble. Perhaps only the last of these home recommendations makes sense: the gurgling sound of escaping steam dilutes the already produced drink and extracts the last of the bitter, unpleasant substances from the exhausted coffee grounds at a high temperature. A general rule that applies to any method of preparation is to use good-quality coffee taken from a freshly opened package (or freshly ground for those who have the time for this process and subsequent cleaning, which is difficult in modern times). However, any variation on this theme may produce pleasant surprises. Finally, a word on cleaning machines that come into contact with coffee. The fat content of roasted coffee beans (about 17% in the Arabica species) leaves a residue on metal surfaces, which does not necessarily affect the quality of the drink as it prevents prolonged contact with hot metal. Therefore, it is not recommended to wash coffee makers with aggressive detergents. But enough is enough! A simple wipe with a slightly damp solid sponge should suffice.. The little secrets of the Moka Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
In 2025, Bialetti was sold to a Luxembourg- based holding company through the Nuo Capital investment fund. The transaction was led by Stephen Cheng, a Chinese entrepreneur from Hong Kong, who acquired almost 79% of the company's shares for around 53 million euros. Although the public relations team of the 'Little Man with a Moustache' hastened to declare that 'the heart will remain Italian', the fact remains that another aspect of 'Made in Italy' has passed into foreign hands. As has happened in many other 'Made in Italy' sectors, even the most iconic symbols have passed into the hands of foreign investors. Yet the gurgling of the Moka continues to stand the test of time and economy in millions of Italian kitchens! Meanwhile, the Bialetti Moka Express has enjoyed enormous success around the world, even after the patent expired decades ago! • In Italy, it has become a symbol of Italian coffee and an iconic object. • In Europe, it spread rapidly in the '50s and '60s, becoming a must-have in Italian homes and beyond. • Worldwide: today, the Moka is sold in over 200 countries, with over 200 million sold. • In design: the Moka is exhibited in design museums such as the MoMA in New York and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. • In terms of culture: the Moka has become a symbol of Italian tradition and passion for coffee. Many famous designers and architects have artistically developed the Moka Pot, contributing to its status as an iconic and beloved object worldwide. Other artists have experimented with shapes that, while not affecting functionality, make the Moka Pot almost an object of art, to be exhibited and collected. Moka conquers the world, and design Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
The fascination with using high pressure to produce a more full-bodied coffee drink in a matter of seconds found fertile ground first among baristas, then among builders. Following the invention of the "first steam espresso machine" by Angelo Moriondo, an entrepreneur from Turin who patented it in 1884, several practical geniuses in the early twentieth century indulged in designing appliances for extracting coffee under pressure. The first structure suitable for dispensing boiling water was the vertical cylindrical boiler, which we know today as the 'column machine': an imposing presence that towered above and could be seen clearly in bars at the time. An evolution can be seen from the first Bezzera patent in 1901, followed by the Pavoni patent in 1905, with the introduction of the portafilter concept: a small perforated container to be filled with ground coffee and crossed by boiling water. However, boilermakers' welding technology was limited at the time, and their vessels could barely withstand a pressure of a couple of atmospheres. With such limited force, it took a long time to extract a cup of coffee, and the drink was weak and diluted. Additionally, steam mixed with water would often come out of the boilers, which were initially heated by a high charcoal fire and later by gas burners. The high temperature of the steam (up to 130°C) would cause what the baristas of the time called 'coffee burning', i.e. an overextraction of unpleasant bitter and astringent substances. As mechanical engineering advanced, new models with futuristic designs emerged, whose boilers could impart much higher pressures to the water. In our region of Friuli, the Romanut brothers' workshop produced robust machines with a simple, essential design in the 1920s, featuring the iconic Lion of Venice republic under the brand "La San Marco’. Nevertheless, the physical law of liquid-vapor equilibrium also caused the temperature of the supplied water to rise proportionally, resulting in the aforementioned problems of overextraction. Espresso: the great innovation Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
Some time later, in 1935, an adventurous industrialist named Francesco Illy came up in Trieste with an unprecedented solution to overcome the constraints imposed by physics. He thought of putting the contents of the boiler under pressure by blowing compressed air over the liquid. This made it possible to control the temperature completely independently of the pressure. However, the machine was complicated to manoeuvre and almost as expensive as a car! Then the Second World War came, during which time the focus of industry shifted towards the production of different types of machinery. Giovanni Achille Gaggia is widely regarded as one of the fathers of modern espresso, and his lever machine was a pivotal moment in coffee history. A passionate barista, he became an inventor and entrepreneur and made his mark on the world of espresso with his lever machine, the Gaggia 'Classica', which was presented in 1947. This machine used a hand lever to force hot water through the coffee. When the lever was lowered, it pushed hot water through the coffee, multiplying its pressure and creating a creamy, aromatic espresso. The Gaggia "Classica" was revolutionary in that it applied much higher pressure than previous espresso machines — up to 12 atmospheres — allowing more oils and aromas to be extracted from the coffee. This gave the espresso a richer flavour and appearance, setting the standard for modern espresso. The machine was an instant success and became the world's most popular: it is still considered one of the best ever built and has been in continuous production for decades, with its system implemented by numerous other manufacturers. Even today, some people, especially in Naples, claim that espresso prepared with lever machines is unattainably good, and the most conscientious baristas pride themselves on knowing how to operate one. Coffee was reborn after World War II Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
A significant development came in 1961 with the Faema E-61, which changed the taste and preparation method of espresso forever thanks to pre-infusion.Rather than the manual piston lever used until then, this machine used an electric pump to force hot water through the coffee powder. It produced a faster and more consistent espresso and was the first of the countless bar coffee machine models that followed. The E61 also introduced other innovations, including an indirect heating system, a heat exchanger ('the coil’), and a valve delivery unit. This design became the standard for professional espresso machines and remained in production for decades. Considered one of the most important espresso machines in history, the E61 revolutionized the way espresso is prepared. It has been used in many bars and cafés around the world, contributing powerfully to the spread of espresso culture. Electronic regulation nowadays makes it possible to equip machines with sophisticated control systems that can modulate many variables and have displays to assist baristas with programming. In recent years, advanced automation has arrived in the form of real computers on board the machine, making the management of many more parameters agile and reliable. The most modern machines can be networked and adjusted remotely by specialists and manufacturers, and receive periodic software updates. A market that has gained enormous traction in recent years is encapsulated by the slogan 'espresso as at the bar'. Mastering the variables obtained through the study of bar machines has led to the design of small units for home use that promise to produce a creamy, aromatic cup of coffee without the help of a professional barista. The introduction of servings — sealed single portions of ground coffee contained in filter paper pods, aluminium capsules or, more recently, food-safe plastic — has made life easier for housewives (or their husbands). The real revolution had yet to come! Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
It seems impossible, but even a hundred years after the first patents on espresso coffee machines were granted, it was not possible to find a clear, scientifically sound definition of this term! Until 1991, people talked just about a 'cup prepared with an espresso machine', but they did not explain or highlight the characteristics of the product in the cup, which was the only thing that consumers showed they appreciated. A food chemistry study that appeared in that year highlighted where attention should be focused, starting with a semantic analysis of the word. There are three fundamental points to consider: 1. "Ex pressum" in Latin means 'squeezed out', which is consistent with the pressure of the water, which not only solubilises the aromatic compounds, but also forcefully pushes the minute droplets of the oily coffee fraction (around 17%) through the ground. This directly influences the sensory pleasure we derive from it, as the beautiful "crema" that crowns the drink is generated by the energy expended by the water passing through the coffee, creating an almost foaming effect. The velvety persistence of the coffee flavour on the tongue, which lingers in the mouth for several minutes, is due to the lipid emulsion of the oily fraction, which is not quickly washed away by saliva as it is in Moka or Napoletana coffee. 2. The pleasure of not having to wait long for a hot drink at the bar, unlike tea or infusions, reminds us of the speed of preparation (30 seconds to make, 30 seconds to serve, and perhaps three sips to drink it all). We can compare this with other situations involving speed: the express train that runs faster than the accelerated train, and the express letter that arrives immediately (or at least it should...). 3. But there is another important concept: the coffee we order at the bar and receive one minute later is prepared expressly for us. It did not exist before we ordered it and is made before our eyes to meet our specific request. It's more than just a drink; it's a cuddle, a pleasant massage to our ego. And sorry if this is a little thing! But... What does espresso really mean? Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
The historical origins of coffee are shrouded in legend and historical documents, but the earliest solid evidence dates back to 1592 in the book "De Plantis Ægipti" by the Venetian botanist Prospero Alpini, which features the first drawing of a Coffea branch. Setting aside the legend of the shepherd Shadli, recounted by the Syriac monk Fausto Naironi (or Mehrej Ibn Nimrûm) in his work "De saluberrima potione cahue, seu café nuncupata discursus", it seems likely that the sweet fruits of the coffee tree, which grew in the wild in the Abyssinian highlands, have been consumed by local populations since ancient times. The first recorded cultivation took place beyond the Red Sea in present-day Yemen, which enjoyed a more pleasant climate at the dawn of civilization than it does today: it is not for nothing that it was called "Arabia Felix". During the Turkish-Ottoman period, coffee was well known and traded, travelling in caravans or aboard feluccas to ports such as Alexandria and Istanbul. Venice, due to its trade with the Ottoman Empire, became the first European city to import coffee in 1615. Initially called 'Arab wine', it was viewed with suspicion, with some even asking the Pope to ban it. However, after tasting it, Clement VIII declared that it would be a sin to allow it to remain the preserve of the infidels, thus giving it the green light. From there, it spread to Vienna and then to Amsterdam, which was famous for its greenhouses. The first coffee shop appeared in London in 1652 and in Paris in 1672. To avoid reliance on Arab trade, European rulers encouraged coffee cultivation in their colonies. It was introduced by the French in 1720 in Guadeloupe, the Caribbean, by the Dutch in Suriname and Java, by the English in Jamaica, and by the Spanish in Mesoamerican colonies. Portuguese traders also recognized its potential, importing with some subterfuge seeds to Brazil, which became the world’s leading producer. It is interesting to note that British colonizers' efforts made coffee travel, through four continents, all the way round the almost 3,000-kilometre mountainous desert between Ethiopia – the territory of origin – and Kenya, where it is still produced today. The long journey of coffee Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
At the end of the nineteenth century, some coffee plants arrived from Ethiopia and Somalia at the Botanical Garden in Palermo, where they were kept inside the Serra Carolina. A few years later, at the start of the twentieth century, the decision was made to experiment with growing coffee in Sicily, to free Italy from its dependence on foreign trade and establish a new all-Italian 'coffee route', similar to those previously established for citrus fruits and cotton. 'The first attempt to grow coffee in the open air was made by the Director of the Palermo Botanical Garden, Antonino Borzì, and the Head Gardener, Vincenzo Riccobono, who planted 25 coffee plants in 1905’, explains Rosario Schicchi, Director of the Botanical Garden of Palermo. Although the plants were positioned close to a wall with southern exposure and sheltered by a foliage canopy, the plants were unable to overcome the winter temperatures, which reached values below -3°C, that had existed for a few years. They tried again in 1911, but a subsequent wave of frost destroyed the coffee plants. In the 1940s, some specimens of Coffea arabica of the Amami variety, as well as other wild varieties from the Horn of Africa, were planted inside the majestic Serra Carolina. These plants adapted perfectly and grew to a height of about three metres over time: they can still be admired inside the greenhouse. Thanks to the present evolving climatic change, the first semi-industrial experiment involving the cultivation of around sixty Coffea arabica plants in Italy took place in the 1990s. Grown outdoors, they have adapted well to the Sicilian climate at latitudes far higher than those of the 'Coffee Belt': the area between the two tropics where coffee is grown in Latin America, East Africa, and Southeast Asia. Coffee arrives in Sicily Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
In terms of the geography of coffee production, this is probably the northernmost plantation, compared to the more typical tropical locations. It was born from an act of love by Arturo Morettino, who realised his dream of establishing a coffee plantation in Sicily. Once known primarily for its vineyards, olive trees and citrus fruits, Sicily is now also a land of coffee! 'We are witnessing significant climate change that should prompt us to reflect on the present and future of our land. It has shown signs of distress and risks to traditional crops, but also unexpected potential', says Andrea, Arturo's son. This experiment realizes the dream of a family that have been running an experimental project for almost 40 years. To date, no fewer than seven hundred coffee plants have germinated and thrived on the island as part of this project. The seeds donated by the Botanical Garden of Palermo were planted at an altitude of around 350 metres. They have been multiplied and currently produce around 100 kg of coffee per year. Over time, the original spontaneous variety typical of the lands of the Horn of Africa has been joined by other traditional cultivars. After manual harvesting between June and July, the fruit is processed with manual pulping, fermentation, and sun-drying. Roasted to a medium-light hue, this native Sicilian coffee has been evaluated in many tasting sessions as being of the highest quality, with unique scents that are characteristic of Sicily: a coffee of great finesse. The experimental plantation has given life to the original Sicilian coffee, following a strong signal received from nature, and this ambitious project involves universities and experts in the sector. Coffee is thriving in Italy, too! Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
The Trieste Coffee Museum Association (aMDC) was created to promote the establishment of a permanent museum dedicated to coffee culture. It has since expanded its activities and become a leading authority on historical, scientific and cultural dissemination. Through exhibitions, conferences, publications, educational activities and national and international collaborations, the aMDC also engages with younger generations, promoting coffee as a form of cultural heritage and as an expression of history, innovation, identity and dialogue between peoples. The founding intention of our association has always been to establish a permanent museum to promote coffee culture. However, given the difficulties and financial exposure involved in achieving this, we have changed our approach by promoting opportunities for in-depth cultural study. We organize technical, scientific, literary, artistic, social and popular events, as well as training and educational events for young people. Among these events, the annual monthly 'Cenacles' stand out, featuring expert speakers. While we wait to obtain a stable and definitive museum location, we are pursuing the useful strategy of creating widespread temporary exhibitions, of which this one in Bratislava is an example. Recognizing that a permanent location involves a commitment to institutions and citizens, we are exploring every possible installation option to maximize visitor enjoyment and satisfaction. To avoid reinventing the wheel, we are cultivating the idea of creating an alliance between the various coffee museums around the world. To this end, we have launched the idea of an international congress to study its feasibility. This will take place on 22 October in Trieste, in conjunction with the Triestespresso Expo 2026 trade fair, which will bring together numerous industry professionals. AD MAIORA! Sailing towards a coffee museum Associazione del Museo del Caffè - Trieste DID ? YOU KNOW
Pubblicazione edita da aMDC nel quadro dell’iniziativa 1ª Convention Internazionale dei Musei del Caffè (Trieste, 22 ottobre 2026) con il contributo del Consiglio Regionale del Friuli V. Giulia