SAN FRANCISCO Rj 'BLIC LIBRARY 31223 0
♦ g Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. New York ' By arrangement with the British Broadcasting System VV'‘V
BLIZZARD’S WONDERFUL WOODEN TOYS
f745.S9,B619b Blizzard, Richard Blizzard's Wonderful wooden toys The plans for the toys and models were drawn by Peter F Farley and Mervyn Hurford The black and white and colour photographs were taken by Stanley Dutton of How Professional The running headings and diagrams in the tools section were drawn by Alan Burton The guide to building a basic tool kit on page 220 is reproduced by kind permission of Bahco Record Tools Ltd The photograph on the front cover shows completed models of a Scania 142EV8 truck and a Hyster fork lift truck Conditions of sale This book is sold subject to the condition that all designs are copyright and are not for commercial reproduction without permission of the designer and copyright holder This book accompanies the BBC Television series Blizzard’s Wonderful Wooden Toys, first broadcast in Spring 1983 Series produced by Peter Ramsden Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data Blizzard, Richard E. Blizzard’s Wonderful wooden toys. Includes index. I. Wooden toy making. I. Title. II. Title: Wonderful wooden toys. TTI74.5.W6B583 1983 745.592 83-5080 ISBN 0-8069-7798-1 Copyright © 1983 by Richard Blizzard Published in 1983 by Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. Two Park Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10016 First published in the U.K. in 1983 by the British Broadcasting Corporation, London Manufactured in the United States of America All rights reserved §.F. PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1223 01738 2046
Sand pit toys Sand pit and cover, hopper, crane and skip 9 Plough and scooper 17 Dumper truck 23 Outdoor toys Rope ladder 29 Stilts 31 See-saw 33 Wheel barrows 37 Large toys Rocking dog and llama 43 Go-cart 49 Ride-in mobile crane 57 Pretend toys Play house 71 Table and benches 77 Cooker 83 Rocking cradle 87 Miniature worlds Garage 91 Farm buildings 95 Dutch barn and pigsty 101 Fences and bunker 105 Space station and space ships 107 Doll’s house 117 Fort 127 Model world 1902 Scania truck 135 1982 Scania truck 143 1982 Scania trailer 157 Hyster fork lift truck 163 V8 Land Rover 175 Land Rover County 185 1907 Rolls Royce 201 Basic tool kit 220 Power tools 222 Index 224 Throughout the book metric measurements are given first, followed by imperial measurements in brackets
It would have been impossible to write this book and create this series on wooden toys without the help, advice and encouragement of many talented men and women. I don’t think of this book as mine but ours, something we have all contributed to. I should like to thank: Peter Ramsden, Ann Curtis and Paula Gilder who had such imaginative and practical suggestions to make. Without their professionalism and full involve¬ ment the series would not have taken place Charles Elton of BBC Publications whose encouragement and patience was inexhaustible while waiting for the last few chapters Norman Brownsword who planned and designed the book Peter F Farley and Mervyn Hurford who were responsible for the plans and cutting lists Stanley Dutton for imaginative photography Pamela and Lynne Ratley fortyping the book script I should also like to acknowledge all those companies who assisted with drawings, photography and vehicles for the wooden models section Bob Cartwright and Christine Hollinshead of Rolls Royce Motors who spirited the Silver Ghost onto location for filming. Bob Bruce who built the miniature radiator My chauffeur Steve for many miles of happy motoring Ken James and Don Green of Land Rover who taught me how to drive a Land Rover over rough terrain, and made my hair stand on end! Dermott Bam bridge and B.irgitta Ffjerpe of Scania who provided a magnificent truck for me to drive and researched the 1902 Scania lorry Philip Edmonds of FHyster Europe Limited who made it possible for us to photograph these giant fork lifts at work Several companies helped with the supply of tools and made it possible for me to have two complete workshops, one at home and the other in the studio Roger Cottle and Roger Pitchfork of Bahco Record Tools Ltd who provided the majority of hand tools used John Costello of Black and Decker Ltd who helped with electric tools and machines Ken Stalker of Makita Electric Ltd for the use of an electric screwdriver Peter King of Evode Ltd for Mole Rack cramps John Hunter Connolly Brothers (Carriers) Ltd for the supply of leather for the Rolls Royce Silver Ghost Last but by no means least my wife Valerie who listened patiently to all the difficulties and did a great deal of work behind the scenes; Edward, Joy and Christopher who ‘played around’ Richard Curtis and Paz for such a splendid and happy introductory piece of music Ingrid Bennett - Graphics Design Department Bristol who painted the toys so very beautifully. Mr A. H.J. Kennett, Headmaster of Bussage Primary School, for allowing us to use the school for the colour photographs.
4 Foreword ‘Yea, the work of our hands, establish thou it’ Richard Blizzard’s approach to life and work epitomises this prescription from the psalmist. As a designer and maker of wooden models and as a very able expositor, he has in the space of a few years developed and presented a range of products which stir the imagination and appeal to the aesthetic sense of young and old. I have no doubt that this, his latest series, will be every bit as popular and successful as his earlier ones. Blizzard brings to his work a combination of thorough attention to detail and a keen sense of what will appeal. When he designs and makes toys his starting point is that the toy to a child is a friend, and a friend does not let you down. His toys therefore have a quality of strength and robustness, so that they will not, like so many toys, fall to pieces after a few hours of rugged play. It is an honour to introduce this book. Sir Alex Smith November 1982 To me the saddest words to hear from anyone are ‘I’m bored’. One of the great challenges of our age is how to use our increased leisure time purposefully. It is here that craftsmen, educationalists and the media have a great work to do - to encourage, inspire and help so that the idle hours can be filled with useful and satisfying activities. I hope that this book of wooden toys and models will be a source of inspiration and new ideas. I have covered a large range of interests and skills. Some of you will get as much fun making the sand pit as your children do playing in it! Some youngsters will be a little more sophisticated and will appreciate the working parts of the mobile crane and go-cart. For the skilled woodworker there is the challenge and appeal of the Rolls Royce1907 Silver Ghost. For those who are interested in trucks, a Scania capable of hauling a tremendous load of building blocks and a Hyster fork lift truck to lift them on and off. If you have young children and don’t feel too confident about woodworking, start with something simple like the rope ladder and, dare I say it, climb to higher things. Basic tools are, of course, required - a tenon saw, hammer, hand-drill and screwdriver. You may well have many of the tools but if not once you have them you will always find further use for them around the house. Although full line drawings have been prepared don’t worry if your toy or model turns out looking a little different! It is probably better and at the worst it is unique! So often wood takes on the character of the person who is fashioning it. Parents are sometimes a little diffident about how their wooden creations will be received. In my experience I find that a toy made at home, however humble in its construction and painting, is always a more treasured possession than the shop bought variety. I think this is due to the fact that the father, mother, grandparents and even aunts and uncles have made their contribution and it therefore has a far greater value. There are good toys and bad toys. I believe the definition is really quite simple - a good toy is one that is strong and does not break, while a bad toy breaks easily and therefore causes great distress. I hope that as you start to make these toys you will come to understand the words of my motto ‘I too will something make, and joy in the making’. Richard E Blizzard 1982 7
Sand and water play are among the most popular pursuits of all for young children. Digging, tunnelling, mining and building are all industriously carried on in the sand pit. The crane, scoop, plough, dumper truck and hopper are all accessories and will add a great deal of pleasure to the busy sand pit. The pit is designed to be used in the garden as a free standing unit or set into the lawn. The lid is an essential part to prevent cats and dogs fouling the sand. TFSe hopper provides tremendous fun for children, who never tire of filling it with sand, pulling the lever and watching the silver sand spilling out into their buckets. The crane and skip make an ideal working combination in the sand pit. The crane makes it possible to refill the hopper or the dumper truck. The addition of twin winding handles makes it far more fun as two children are able to operate the crane simultaneously. Before starting to build the crane you will find reference to the exploded parts drawing a great help as you familiarise yourself with all the pieces. Painting All the toys that are used in the sand pit will need painting. You will discover that it is far easier in many cases to paint some of the parts before final assembly takes place, eg the dump truck is far easier to paint if the wheels are not on. Good quality exterior paint is necessary. Warning Check that all paint used is non-toxic. Sand pit and cover 1 Preparethefour side panels which are held together by four substantial corner blocks. 2 The corner blocks are screwed securely onto the side panels. Once one block has been secured, the other side panel is screwed onto it. Repeat this operation until all four sides are secure. 3 The base is made from oil tempered hardboard and secured to the bottom by galvanised clout nails. The clout nail has a large head and will help to hold the hardboard to the pit walls. 4 It is essential to make a lid to keep out cats and dogs. Five strips of wood are screwed onto a sheet of oil tempered hardboard. The strips of wood fit inside the walls of the sand pit and act as location points when covering down the pit. Handles are useful and if these are fitted the screws holding them must locate in the strips of wood beneath. 5 All the accessories are mounted onto the sand pit walls. The mounting blocks have large diameter holes drilled in them to accept either the crane or the hopper. You can position the mounting blocks anywhere on the pit sides. Hopper 1 The hopper is virtually a box supported by two dowel rods which locate into blocks on the side of the sand pit. 2 The hopper box is glued and screwed together. Before fixing the floor drill all the necessary holes. Screw the floor onto the bottom. 3 Cut the discharge control lever to shape. The lever is fixed to the bottom of the hopper by a small nut and bolt. The lever’s ‘travel’ is regulated by two small dowel rods that act as stops. These are glued into the bottom of the hopper. 4 Prepare a mounting block for the back of the hopper. Glue the two dowels into the block and screw the block onto the back of the hopper. Crane 1 Mark and cut out a pair of crane tower sides. Keeping the sides together drill all the holes as shown on the plan. 2 Cut a block for the base of the crane tower. Drill a hole in the underside of the block to take the large dowel rod that provides a mounting place for the crane on the sand pit. 3 The sides of the crane are held together by blocks of wood. These are glued and screwed in position. 4 The hoist handle discs are made from plywood, and the handles from dowel rod. The handles are glued into the discs, but as plywood is relatively thin it gives very little ‘glueing area’ so it is essential to make the square blocks and glue these onto the disc and handle. 5 Cut out a pair of crane jib sides and drill the necessary holes while the pair are fixed together. 6 The jib sides are held together by blocks of wood glued and screwed into position. 7 Assemble the jib onto the crane tower by passing a dowel rod through the ready prepared holes. Now screw the sides of the tower to the jib. 8 Screw eyes are used to guide the nylon cord along the crane. 9 The nylon cord passes through a hole in the end of the crane jib. Wear can take place here unless a nylon tube is fitted. Any small length of plastic tube will do. Drill the hole large enough to take the tube. The nylon cord passes through the tube and thus stops the cord cutting the dowel rod away. Skip 1 Glue a small box together. Holes should be drilled through the sides to take the dowel rods before glueing the box together. 2 Small chain can be bought from the ironmongers. Push the dowel rods through the box and attach the chain to the rods. 9
Cutting list Sand pit and cover Cover and base 2 off 1220 X1220 X 3mm (48 x 48 x Vein) Oil tempered hardboard Cover support frame 2 off 1170 X 44 X 22mm (46 x PA x ^ein) Timber 3 off 1126 X 44 X 22mm (44y4 x ly^ x V%\u) Timber Side panels 2 off 1220 X197 X 22mm (48 x VA x ysin) Timber 2 off 1176 X197 X 22mm (46y4 x 73/4 x ^in) Timber Corner blocks 4 off 152 X 44 X 44mm (6x1^74 xl3/4in) Timber Hopper mounting block 2 off 191 X 73 x44mm (IVi x 278 xPA'm) Timber Crane mounting block 2 off 102 X 73 X 44mm (4 x 278 x 13/4in) Timber Ancillaries 2 off Lifting handles Hopper Sides 2 off 229x197 x22mm (9 x 73/4 x 78in) Timber 2 off 197 X197 X 22mm (JVa x T^A x 78in) Timber Floor 1off 273 X197 X 9mm (IO3/4 x 73/4 x 3/8in) Plywood Discharge control handle 1 off 279 X102 X 9mm (11 x 4 x 3/8in) Plywood Mounting column 1 off 184 X 70 X 44mm (774 x 23/4 x 13/4in) Timber 2 off 560mm(22in) long x22mm(78in) diameter dowels Control handle stops 2 off 25mm(1in) long x 6mm(y4in) diameter dowels Ancillaries _ 1 off_25nnm(1in) longx6nnm(V4in) diameter bolt, plain washer and locknut Crane Tower assembly 2 off 569 X 292 X 9mm (223/8 x 1172 x 3/8in) Plywood loff 178 X 89 X 70mm (7 x 372 x 23/4in) Timber 1 off 191mm(77in) long x 22mm(78in) diameter dowel 1 off 117 X 70 X 22mm (478 x 23/4 x 78in) Timber 2 off 89 X 70 X 22mm (37 x 23/4 x 78in) Timber loff 219 X 70 X 22mm (878 x 23/4 x 78in) Timber Jib assembly 2 off 502 X108 X 9mm (I93/4 x 474 x 3/8in) Plywood 2 off 102 X 47 X 20mm (4 x 178 x 3/4in) Timber 1 off 127 X 47 X 20mm (5 x 178 x 37in) Timber 1 off 67mm(278in) longx16mm(78in) diameter dowel loff 114mm(472in) longx16mm(78in) diameter dowel Hoist handle assembly loff 146mm(53/4in) longx16mm(78in) diameter dowel 2 off 76mm(3in) long x 16mm(3/8in) diameter dowel Discs_Make from 213 x 105 x 9nnnn (8% x 4V8 x ysin)_Plywood 4 off 32 X 32 X 20mm (ITt x 174 x 3/4in) Timber Ancillaries 4 off 20mm (3/4in) diameter screwed eyes 1 off Length of strong cord Skip Sides 2 off 146 X 92 X 12mm (53/4 x 378 x 7in) Plywood Ends 2 off 114 X 92 X 9mm (472 x 378 x 3/8in) Plywood Floor 1 off 146 X 89 X 9mm (53/4 x 372 x 3/8in) Plywood Lifting bars 2 off 165mm(672in) longx9mm(3/8in) diameter dowels Ancillaries 1 off Approx. 762mm (30in) long length of chain 10
1220 X 1220(48 x 48) OIL TEMPERED HARDBOARD (VeOTT (8/z2)ez CM 11 HOPPER MOUNTING BLOCKS CRANE MOUNTING BLOCKS MAKE TWO MAKE TWO
184(7y4) 44(13/4) HOPPER ASSEMBLY r~ 70(23/4) A 44(13/4) 22(V8) DIAM X 560(22) LONG DOWELS Lp 83(374) MOUNTING COLUMN RADIUS discharge control lever 9(3/8) THICK SECURED TO HOPPER WITH 6(V4) DIAM X 25(1) LONG BOLT COMPLETE WITH PLAIN WASHERS AND LOCKNUT
86(33/8) CRANE TOWER ASSEMBLY 13 22(V8) DIAM X191 (7V2) LONG DOWEL
CRANE ASSEMBLY 16(5/8) DIAM DOWEL CRANE JIB
HOIST HANDLE ASSEMBLY SYMMETRICAL ABOUT CENTRE LINE SECURE SECOND END ONCE SPINDLE HAS BEEN PASSED THROUGH CRANE TOWER SUCH THAT ASSEMBLY IS FREE TO ROTATE
16
4 The scoop allows a child to transport small quantities of sand around the sand pit. The flat blade on the front allows for a good scraping action, while the large wheels allow the load to be easily transported along the roads the sand plough has made. This powerful little plough with its V-shaped blade is capable of making roadways for other vehicles in the sand. The wheels have been deliberately kept to a minimum to allow a good ploughing action through the sand. Scooper 1 The scooper is very similar in construction to the plough. 2 Cut out the support frames and cross member, glue and screw together. 3 Make a pair of side walls and a rear wall. Glue and screw the walls to the floor. Now the scoop is attached to the support frame. 4 The handle is made in the same way as for the plough. Plough 1 Cut the cross member and drill be centre hole to take the dowel rod handle. 2 Mark out a pair of support frames. Secure both frames together and drill the axle holes. Glue and screw the support frames onto the cross member. 3 Shape up the base plate and fix to the support frames. 4 Cut out the plough plates A and B. Fix together (masking tape is ideal) and plane up the edges. At the front edge plate A forms the leading edge and plate B is glued onto the side. Chamfer the edges as shown. 5 The side plates are now glued and screwed onto the plough base. 6 The handle is formed by drilling into a short length of dowel rod. The top part of the handle is of larger diameter than the shaft. The handle and shaft are glued together. 7 Fit the axle rod and slip the wheels on to it. Cutting list Scooper Scoop 1 off 140x137 x12mm (S'VixSTsxViin) Plywood 1 off 137 x127 x12mm (5% x 5 x W\n) Plywood 2 off 121 X108 X 9mm {AVa x AVa x Tsin) Plywood Support frame 2 off 111 X102 X 22mm (4% x 4 x ^sin) Timber Cross member 1 off 137 X 47 X 22mm (5% x V/e x ysin) Timber Handle 1 off 127mm(5in) long x 22mm(Tsin) diameter dowel 1 off 356mm(14in) longx16mm(y8in) diameter dowel Ancillaries 2 off 102mm (4in) diameter road wheels 1 off 222mm(8y4in) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter steel axle 2 off 11mm(yi6in) long x16mm (ysin) o/d x 6mm(y4in) i/d spacers 2 off Spring dome caps to suit 6mm (lAin) diameter axle 17
Plough Base plate 1 off 194 X127 X 22mm (yVs x 5 x ysin) Timber Side plate 1 off 170 X117 X 9mm (6''Vi6 x 4y8 x Tsin) Plywood 1 off 160 X117 X 9mm (6^6 x 4^8 x Vs'm) Plywood Support frame 2 off 102x92x22mm (4x3y8xy8in) Timber Cross member 1 off 127 X 67 X 22mm (5 x 2Ve x Tein) ' Timber Handle 1 off 127mm(5in) long x 22mm(^in) diameter dowel 1 off 356mm(14in) longx16mm(y8in) diameter dowel Ancillaries 2 off 51mm (2in) diameter road wheels 1 off 184mm(7y4in) long x 6mm(y4in) diameter steel axle 2 off 3mm(y8in) long x16mm(ysin) o/d x 6mm(y4in) i/d spacers 2 off Spring dome caps to suit 6mm (y4in) diameter axle CROSS MEMBER 18
SUPPORT FRAME MAKE TWO 22(V8) THICK 19
59(2Vi6) CHAMFER TO SUIT BASE PLATE AND SIDE PLATE ‘ B’ 9(3/8) THICK CHAMFER TO SUIT BASE PLATE AND SIDE PLATE ‘ A’ i 20 60(23/8)
22(V8) 70(2%) 22(V8) 22(V8) 16(5/8) DIAM X 38(1 Va) DEEP HOLE ^ il 5 — 137(5%) -I CROSS MEMBER SUPPORT FRAME MAKE TWO 22(%) THICK SIDE WALLS - 9(%) THICK — MAKE TWO REAR WALL - 140 x 137 x 12(5V2 x 5% x Va) THICK FLOOR -127 X 137 X 12(5 X 5% x ’72) THICK Chamfer front edge of floor WALLS & FLOOR 21
22
These little ‘dumpers’ are to be found on all building sites and provide a great deal of enjoyment in the sand pit. 1 Cut the chassis base to size and also the two strips that screw on beneath it. These two strips hold the axles. To be certain the axles line up fix the two strips together and drill as a pair. 2 Screw onto the chassis the two blocks that act as mounts for the bumper body. 3 Cut a pair of sides for the dumper body. Glue and screw the back and front on. Drill a hole to take the dowel rod that acts as the closing mechanism for the body locking clip. Glue the dowel into the back. 4 Screw a length of piano hinge onto the underside of the dumper body and then screw the hinge onto the front mounting block of the chassis. 5 The engine block is shaped from a solid block. Mark in pencil the portion to be removed which will allow the driver foot room. This piece can be cut off using a tenon saw. 6 Cut a driver's seat from a piece of waste wood and glue onto the engine block. 7 The steering wheel is made from plywood and a short length of dowel rod acts as the steering column. 8 Making a realistic radiator grill is easily achieved by using a small piece of wire mesh (the grade used in car body repairs). Small strips of wood are glued around the front of the engine block and the wire mesh is fixed inside using four small panel pins. 9 The body locking clip must be made from plywood. It is screwed onto the front face of the engine and must be positioned before the engine block is screwed in place. 10 Shape up a pair of mudguards and glue onto the side of the engine block. 11 Fit the axles and wheels. Cutting list Main chassis 1 off 289 X121 X 22mm (11% x 4y4 x Tsin) Timber 2 off 289 X 22 X 22mm (lIVs x % x %in) Timber 1 off 121 X 22 X 20mm (4% x % x %in) Timber 1 off 191 X 22 X 20mm (7% x % x y^in) Timber 1 off 121 X 41 X 22mm (4% x T/s x ysin) Timber Engine block 1 off 137 X 92 X 22mm (STa x BVa x Tain) Timber 1 off 124 X 92 X 70mm (4ya x 3ya x 2y4in) Timber 1 off 92 X 20 X 12mm (BVa x Va x %in) Timber 1 off 79 X12 X 6mm (BVa x Vi x ^tin) Timber 2 off 51 X12 X 6mm (2 x % x y4in) Timber Mudguard 2 off 137 X 38 X 22mm (STa x VA x Tain) Timber Seat 1 off 44 X44 X 38mm (iy4 xlyt xIViin) Timber Steering Wheel 1 off 89mm(3y2in) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter dowel 1 off 6mm(y4in) longx 22mm (Tain) diameter dowel Body locking clip 1 off 146 X 57 X 9mm (5y4 x 2y4 x Tain) Plywood Tipping body assembly 2 off 200 X102 X 22mm (7ya x 4 x Tain) Timber 1 off 191 X102 X 12mm (7% x 4 x %in) Plywood 1 off 191 X114 X 22mm (7% x 4% x Tain) Timber 1 off 171 X146 X 22mm (6y4 x 5y4 x Tain) Timber 1 off 32mm(iy4in) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter dowel
Ancillaries 1 off 121 mm (4y4in) long piano hinge 1 off 83 X 51mm (31/4 x 2in) wire mesh 4 off 102mm (4in) diameter road wheels 2 off 203mm(8in) long x 6mm(l/tin) diameter steel axles 4 off 6mm(y4in) long x 16mm(Vein) o/d x 6mm(l/4in) i/d spacers 4 off Spring dome caps to suit 6mm (y4in) diameter axles 2 off 9mm (l/sin) diameter dome headed drawing pins 12(1/2) SEAT 22(V8) DIAM 6(1/4) 6(1/4) DIAM 1---- ^ ! 89(31/2) STEERING WHEEL BODY LOCKING CLIP 9(3/8) THICK 24
25 289(11%) J22(V8)
>- _l ffl s UJ C5 Z (/) DC X ^ O CM ^8 < >- Q O ffi o 2 ?< CL z Q. oS H Ew I 26 121(43/4) LONG BODY TIPPING HINGE -J 12(./,)-* L_^_^59(6'A)_
137(5^/8) o o m m z (D Z UJ 27
Tree climbing is as natural to children as breathing! This rope ladder can be used for climbing or swinging. The rope or cord can be easily bought from hardware shops. Modern rope, which is extremely strong, will have the breaking strain clearly displayed on the box. Caution Make sure that an adult ties the rope ladder on to the tree and that he or she is ‘on duty’ to supervise the first ‘climbs’ as rope ladders swing and twist about. 1 Tie a knot in one end of each of the two pieces of rope. 2 The rungs are made from very large dowel rod, Mark the position of the holes in each end. Drilling has to be done carefully. With a flat bit in an electric drill bore a hole half way through, turn over and the point of the flat bit will give you the location point to finish off the hole. Unless the hole is bored from both sides the rod will splinter. ^ 3 Thread the rope through the | dowel rod. Knot the rung in place on t each side. Now take another rung and I use it as a measuring stick to tie the i next knot. Do this on both sides. i- Repeat the procedure for the next | I step until the ladder is finished. 305(12) RUNG SPACING i_^ I ROPES KNOTTED AT END TO PREVENT FRAYING, AND ON EITHER SIDE OF RUNGS TO HOLD RUNGS IN POSITION 25(1) DIAM 2 HOLES 9(3/8) DIAM RUNG MAKE NINE Cutting list Rung 9 off 305mm(12in) longx25mm(1in) diameter dowel 2 off 3660mm (144in) long lengths of strong rope
30
s Stilts are great fun for all ages to stagger around the garden on! These are designed with teenagers in mind and are therefore very strong. If you have young children then the columns could well be thinner in section, as a young child will have difficulty holding the hand grip with the dimensions given. It is best to start with the foot rests set at the bottom of the columns until confidence is built up. 38(1’72) 57(2Va) 44(1%) TWO HOLES 6(y4)DIAM THROUGH LOCAL CHAMFERS. FOR HAND GRIP 1 Tape both columns together and mark in the positions of the bolt holes. It is critical that the holes are drilled at 90° to the sides. An assistant is helpful to watch the drilling process. A vertical drill stand will of course make this task quite simple. Buy the coach bolts before you drill the holes. 2 The foot of the column must be chamfered on all four sides. This prevents ‘splitting out’ of the ends. 3 Hand grips are chamfered and the best tool for this job is the spokeshave. 4 Foot rests are of a 'sandwich' construction, plywood, block, pl)Avood. The block of wood in the middle has to be of the same thickness or fractionally larger than the width of the column. Plywood sides are cut as pairs and glued and screwed onto the centre block. 5 Very carefully mark the positions of the holes that go through the foot rests, as these have to ‘line up' with the holes in the column. FOOTREST MAKE TWO SECURED TO COLUMN WITH: TWO 76(3) LONG, 6(y4) DIAM COACH BOLTS, PLAIN WASHERS AND WING NUTS 8 HOLES 6(y4)DIAM. C\J 5 CsJ S O) s CM s CM O \ CO UJ 9 CO O DC UJ < I o o IT) X CO LA L 38(1’72) 44(1%) COLUMN Cutting list BOTH SIDES MAKE TWO Column 2 off 1830 X 44 X 38mm (72 x TA xT^in) Timber Foot rest 4 off 152 X102 X 12mm (6 x 4 x Viin) Plywood 2 off 108 X 44 X 38mm (4V4 x TA x TAin) Timber Ancillaries 4 off 76mm(3in) long x 6mmCAin) diameter coach bolts 4 off Plain washers 4 off Wing nuts 31
32
The see-saw is perhaps one of the oldest outdoor playthings and one that never loses its popularity. The only joints are halving joints, the other parts are assembled with screws. The stand 1 Make a pair of pivot side plates. Drill the hole for the pivot dowel rod before shaping off the top. This is done by using a flat bit in an electric drill. Keep both sides together throughout the drilling process. 2 After the hole has been bored in the side plates, radius the ends and taper off the sides with a plane. A spokeshave will be of great help for ‘rounding off’ the top. 3 Cut two lengths to make the feet. To stabilise the see-saw it is necessary to make two foot-tie members. The foot-tie members are fitted to the foot with halving joints. Mark out the halving joints carefully on the timber. The sides of the joint are cut with a tenon saw, the bottom portion being removed with a chisel or a coping saw. The bottom of the halving joint must be ‘levelled ofT using a chisel. 4 Now drill holes in the foot to take the screws that hold the pivot side plates. Countersink the screw holes. 5 Assemble the feet and pivot side plates with screws. Now glue the foot- tie members into the feet. This completes the see-saw stand. See-saw plank (main beam) 6 The main beam plank would obviously break unless it was stiffened by supports screwed underneath it. Cut out a pair of plank supports and with both pieces fastened together drill the pivot dowel rod hole. Using a plane shape up the supports. 7 The plank supports are screwed on from the top side. Firstly drill the screw pilot holes, not forgetting to countersink the holes. Now screw the plank supports onto the see-saw plank. I recommend screws at regular intervals to prevent the top plank flexing when in use. It is also necessary to use a fairly long screw to get a good fixing into the plank supports. 8 The shock absorbers are made from blocks of wood screwed into place at the ends of the plank. The underside of the wood block is covered with a strip of rubber. 9 Cut out four hand grip assemblies. Take a pair and drill the hole for the dowel rod. Radius off the ends. 10 The dowels are glued into the hand grip assemblies which are in turn screwed on to the main beam. As this toy will get a great deal of use it is advisable to drill pilot holes through the sides of the hand grips and then screw the handles into place. 11 This is an outside plaything so it is also advisable to paint it. Check that paint used is non-toxic. Cutting list Main beam 1 off 2440 X197 X 20mm (96 x 7^4 x T^in) Timber 2 off 1730 X 98 X 20mm (68 x 3% x ^in) Timber Hand grip sideplates 4 off 381 X 70 X 20mm (15 x 2^4 x y4in) Timber rail 2 off 235mm(9y4in) long x 20mm(y4in) diameter dowel Shock absorber Make from 206 x 70 x 51 mm (SVe x 2y4 x 2in) Timber Foot 2 off 760 X197 X 22mm (30 x 7% x Tain) Timber Tie member 2 off 825 X 70 X 22mm (32V2 x 2^4 x Tain) Timber Pivot side plate 2 off 600 X191 X 20mm (231/2 x 7''A x y4in) Timber Pivot pin 1 off 280mm(11 in) long x 22mm(Tain) diamater dowel 2 off 25mm (lin) long x 6mm (y4in) diameter dowel Ancillaries 25mm (1in) thick rubber for extra cushioning under shock absorbers 33
25(1) DIAM PIVOT SIDE PLATE MAKE TWO 20(%) THICK 22(V8)—► - 1 = " •0—22(Va) 35(13/8) r 1 -1 70 825(32y2) «-=-T- 1 ALSO REQUIRED: PIVOT PIN 280(11) LONG X 22(V8) DIAM DOWEL WITH 6(y4) DIAM DIAMETRAL HOLES 20(3/4) FROM EACH END FOR 6(V4) DIAM x 25(1) LONG DOWEL TO KEEP PIVOT PIN IN POSITION FOOT TIE MEMBER MAKE TWO 22(V8) THICK \ o\ \ \ 34
o 1 ‘ 47(1 Va) 4 51(2) Q 4 70(23/4) SHOCK ABSORBER MAKE TWO SECURE 25(1) THICK RUBBER STRIP TO INCLINED FACE FOR EXTRA CUSHIONING 20(3/4) HAND GRIP SIDE PLATES MAKE FOUR ALSO REQUIRED FOR HAND GRIP ASSEMBLIES - TWO 235(9y4) LONG, 20(34) DIAM DOWELS 20(3/4)
*i: -^V. .-■ '-l V - .i -• 36
Children love to help wheel loads of sand, earth, potatoes, stone and groceries around even if they occasionally ‘dump’ them in the wrong places! I have built two barrows, one with a single wheel and the modern equivalent with two wheels. The single wheel barrow is more difficult to use than the twin wheel. The twin wheel is really for the younger child as there is no ‘balancing’ of the barrow to be done, simply push or pull the load along. The two barrow bodies are identical, only the underframes are different. It is slightly more difficult to build the single wheel barrow as there is a hole to drilled at an angle for the axle. Therefore in the text I shall concentrate on the single wheel barrow. 1 Make two handles. The shaping for the handgrip is done first with a coping saw which ‘roughs out’ the basic shape and then finished off with a spokeshave. This should now form a good hand grip. 2 The mostdifRculttask is to drill a hole at an angle through the end of the chassis to take the axle. On the twin wheel model this is not necessary as the handles are parallel. You will find that all axle holes are far more accurately drilled if you have a vertical drill stand for your electric drill. Drilling a hole at an angle presents altogether another problem but the important factor is to have either the drill or workpiece fastened firmly to a worktop. Assuming that you just have a drill, cramp the handle to the worktop and make a cardboard template in the shape of a set square. One side of the template should be cut at the angle you are drilling the hole. With an assistant to watch the angle of the drill and template make the hole. Drill handles individually, not taped together as a pair. You will find that the angle is not too critical as when it comes to assembly the soft pine will allow sufficient give for the axle and handles to be aligned. 3 With the axle fixed, cut and screw the front and back cross pieces into place. The barrow legs are now cut and screwed onto the sides. It is advisable to cut a small chamfer all around the bottom of the barrow legs. This will prevent the end grain splitting out when the barrow is put down fully loaded. 4 The barrow chassis is now ready for the barrow body. 5 The whole barrow body is made from plywood. Plywood is particularly suitable for this job as it is both light and very strong. 6 When cutting plywood always use a fine toothed saw. If you use a jigsaw fit it with a metal cutting blade and this will help to prevent ‘spilches’. 7 Cut out and shape a pair of barrow sides. For the final shaping it is always best to fix them together then you will be assured of an accurate pair of sides. 8 Prepare the front and back wall of the barrow and radius the top corners before screwing the barrow together. 9 It is advisable to use the new type of wood screw that has been especially developed for fixing ‘man-made’ boards. This type of screw has a different pattern thread from the traditional wood screw and I have found them superior for fastening ply and chipboard. Drill ‘pilot holes’ for all fixing screws. 10 Besides the screw I recommend you also use ‘screw cups’, these act as washers and pull the sides together tighter. The cup also looks very smart and gives the barrow a distinctive look. It is advisable to glue as well as screw the sides together. 11 Screw and glue the bottom on. 12 The barrow is screwed onto the chassis at four points. Two screws are positioned at the back, just forward of the legs. The front fixing is taken through the base of the barrow near the bottom of the front wall. These four fixing points have been found sufficient for normal loads. 13 As the barrow will spend quite a considerable part of its life ‘out of doors’ varnish or paint will be necessary for protection. Check that the varnish or paint used is non-toxic. 37
Twin wheel version Barrow body sides 2 off 581 X 238 X 12mm (22% x 9% x V2in) Plywood front 1 off 305 X 286 X 12mm (12 x 1iy4 x y2in) Plywood rear 1 off 305 X130 X 12mm (12 x 5y8 x y2in) Plywood bottom 1 off 419 x330 x9mm (16y2x13 xVsin) Plywood Handle 2 off 727 X 41 X 22mm (28y8 x iy8 x y8in) Timber Cross member 2 off 330x41 x22mm (13 xiys xyain) Timber Leg 2 off 280 X 41 X 22mm (11 x lya x yain) Timber Ancillaries 2 off 210mm (8y4in) diameter wheels 1off 425mm (16%in) long x 9mm (yain) diameter steel axle 2 off Spring dome caps to suit 9mm (yain) diameter axles Single wheel version Barrow body As per twin wheel version Handle 2 off 914 X 41 X 22mm (36 x lya x ysin) Timber Cross piece front 1 off 143 X 41 X 22mm (5y8 x lys x yain) Timber rear 1 off 254 X 41 X 22mm (10 x lya x yain) Timber Leg 2 off 280 X 41 X 22mm (11 x lya x yain) Timber Ancillaries 1 off 210mm (8y4in) diameter wheel 1 off 108mm (4y4in) long x 9mm (yain) diameter steel axle 2 off Spring dome caps to suit 9mm (ysin) diameter axles 38
39 HANDLE/SUBFRAME make two handles
238(9%) 130(5V8) "" 1 ""I r"' 1 1 / 41(1%) / 1 1 i ^ 143(5%) 241 (9y2) T ^ 41(1%) i i 254 (10) ^ FRONT CROSS PIECE 22(V8) THICK REAR CROSS PIECE 22(V8) thick 280(11) m:-► 7 T/ 41(1%) / * ^ 267(1 OVa) ^ LEG MAKE TWO 22(V8) THICK SIDEWALL DETAIL (showing barrow body position) 40 146(5%)
POSITION OF CROSS MEMBERS 22(V8) CROSS MEMBER MAKETWO LEG MAKE TWO 22(V8) THICK
42
Rocking animals are always popular with children. The secret of animal making is to make sure that the ‘beasty’ has a friendly face. The dog is a lovable hound while the llama has a majestic face with ears that give him a jaunty look. Both creatures have identical bodies and rockers, the only difference being the necks and heads. 1 Start by cutting out the ends of the body or seat supports. The body is barrel shaped and extremely strong. Cutting the rounded shapes of the two ends can be done with a bow or coping saw. 2 The ends are held together by slats. The slats are held onto the ends by glueing and screwing. In order to give the barrel shape an all wood finish I counterbored the slats to allow the screw heads to go well below the surface. A short length of dowel rod is then cut off and glued into the slat over the screw head. This gives the body of the animal a much better look. 3 The first slat to attach to the two ends is the top one. It is helpful to have a pencil mark in the middle of both curved pieces. This helps tremendously when attaching the first slat. 4 At this stage of construction it is essential to have someone to hold the two ends while the first seven or eight battens are attached. 5 Work from the middle of the top down both sides simultaneously until all battens are fixed. Now glue short lengths of dowel rod into the counterbored holes. 6 When the glue is dry, chisel off the odd lengths of dowel and round off the slat ends. Work over the body with glasspaper making sure that all rough edges have been removed. 7 Following the diagrams mark out the rockers on a sheet of paper or card. The shaping of the rocker itself is fairly critical; too much rock and the animal will turn over, too little and it’s not much fun. The best tool to finish off the rocker is a spokeshave. Fix both rockers together in a vice and shape them up as a pair. 8 Drill and counterbore the sides of the rockers and then screw them onto the animal’s sides. 9 Up to this point making a dog or a llama is the same, ‘woodworkingly’ speaking! If you wish to make a llama then a long neck is necessary. If on the other hand you wish to make a ‘Baskerville’ a shorter piece of wood is needed. Necks and heads have the same cutting and shaping techniques, so I will describe this part in general terms. 10 D raw a card board tern p I ate an d from this mark out the neck shape on the wood. Cut it out using a coping or bow saw. Remove the saw cuts with a spokeshave or glasspaper. 11 Using a large flat bit the same diameter as the dowel rod handle, drill a hole in the neck. Push (or tap with a hammer) the dowel rod into the heck. Just before the-dowel rod is half way in, apply some glue to the rod, then continue tapping it into the neck. A screw fixed from the back of the neck will hold the (rod) handle very firmly in place. 12 Shaping the head is not quite such a daunting task as it may look at first sight. If possible, get a piece of pine without knots or splits. Using a coping saw cut off the snout portion and around the mouth. Now cut down either side of the mouth, removing thinner pieces of wood. Obviously you will need to keep moving the head around in the vice as you cut. Once all the rough shaping has been completed, fine shaping can start. A spokeshave is the best tool for this task or alternatively, a Stanley surform tool can be used. Finish off with glasspaper. 13 The eyes and nose can be purchased from shops that sell soft toy making materials. Drill holes in the block to take the eyes and nose. It is extremely important that they are fixed using epoxy resin glue otherwise eyes and nose could become detached and swallowed by a child. Epoxy resin glue is very strong, but a check should be kept on these parts just to make sure that after several months of use they are still firmly attached. 14 In the top of the dog’s head bore a large hole and glue a short length of broom handle (if you can cut six inches off the kitchen brush it won’t be noticed!) into the head. The mop attachment is then secured to the handle. Do check that there are no 43
metal parts that can scratch or damage hands or faces. Some mop heads have plastic fixtures and these are obviously the ones to choose. 15 All that is necessary to complete the dog is a length of rope knotted through a hole in the back upright for the tail. 16 The llama head is cut in much the same v^ay as the dog head. The only difference is that two ears are cut, shaped and screwed onto the llama’s head. 17 The dog and llama heads are secured to the necks by glueing and screwing. It is best to use very long screws as the wooden heads are quite heavy. Use three screws, two through the back and one through the neck. On the llama it is possible to get one screw up under the chin through the underside of the neck. 18 The llama has a wooden tail glued onto the back end piece. 19 Once all the woodworking is fin¬ ished, run your hands over the toy and check for splinters, sharp edges etc. If your hands don’t find the rough pieces, be sure a child’s little fingers will! 20 Several coats of matt varnish will finish off these toys rather well and give them a good protective coating. Seat support 2 off 330 X 200 X 22mm (13 x 8 x %in) Timber Seat battens 13 off 360 X 25 X 20mm (14 x 1 x V^in) Timber Rockers 2 off 1(X)0 X140 X 22mm (39Ve x 516 x %in) Timber Llama’s head lofF 210 X150 X 70mm (8V4 x 6 x 2y4in) Timber Llama’s neck loff 780 X120 X 22mm (30% x 4% x ^sin) Timber Llama’s ears 2 off 200 X 80 X 22mm (8 x SVs x V%\r\) Timber Llama’s tail loff 180 X 70 X 22mm (7 x 2% x %in) Timber Handle 1off 230mm(9in) longx16mm(y8in) diameter dowel Reinforcing blocks 2 off 32mm (iy4in) o/d x16mm (Vein) i/d x 16mm (Vein) thick Dog’s head 1 off 270 X150 X 70mm (lOVs x 6 x 2%in) Timber 1 off 76mm(3in) long x 22mm(^sin) diameter dowel Dog’s neck 1 off 343 X127 X 22mm (1316 x 5 x %in) Timber Handle 1 off 230mm (9in) longx16mm (Vsin) diameter dowel Reinforcing blocks 2 off 32mm (V/m) o/d x 16mm (Vsin) i/d x 16mm (Vsin) thick Ancillaries 1 off Mop head for dog HANDLE 16(5/8) DIAMx 230(9) LONG NOTE: SEAT, ROCKERS, HANDLE AND REINFORCING BLOCKS, COMMON TO BOTH ANIMALS HANDLE REINFORCING BLOCKS 13 SEAT BATTENS 20x25x360 (5/4 X 1 X 14) 44
DOG’S NECK 22(V8) thick 46 LLAMA’S TAIL 20 x 20(y4X%)GRID 22(V8) thick
DOG’S HEAD 10x10(3/8x3/8) GRID 44(13/4)
48
There is no other feeling quite so exhilarating as racing down a grass track in an unsprung go-cart. From other go-carts I have designed I have now combined all the best features, and the result will give many years trouble free motoring! Caution This vehicle should not be used on public roads. 1 First cut the main chassis, measure and drill all the screw holes and the large diameter hole to take the coach bolt which holds the front axle. 2 Now cut out the rear lower frame. Before screwing together, fix both sides together and drill the holes that take the back axle. Use both glue and screws when assembling the frame. 3 Screw the frame onto the chassis. Cut two side panels, drilling the axle hole in both sides. Before fixing the sides onto the chassis drill and screw the two strips of wood that hold the slatted seat Line up the axle holes with those in the rear lower frame and screw into place. 4 Shape the seat back and screw into place. Glue the strengthening strips into the corners. 5 Cut the slats for the seat All the seat slats are screwed into place. 6 Make two mudguards, one for each hand, and screw them onto the sides. The mudguards will prevent fingers or arms getting entangled with the wheels. 7 Prepare the cab fascia, being careful to radius the corners. 8 The engine compartment bulkheads should be cut out as a pair. After cutting out tape the bulkheads together and, using glasspaper, carefully smooth the edges. 9 Now glue and screw the bonnet lower tie member into the bulkheads. Prepare the bonnet hinge ridge and glue it onto the bulkheads. Using panel pins secure the bonnet hinge ridge. 10 To give the barrel shape to the top of the bonnet it is necessary to cut sixteen strips of wood which are glued and panel pinned onto the bulkheads. You may well find that a helping hand is of great assistance at this stage. After pinning all the strips in place glue the bonnet side panels in place. Don’t forget to drill the hole for the headlamp bar. 11 The radiator cap can be made in a variety of ways, eg two different diameters of dowel rod glued together, or if you have an electric drill, ‘turn up’ a suitable cap. 12 Forming the radiator grill is done by glueing and panel-pinning strips of wood onto the front bulkhead. 13 The fascia is screwed onto the rear bulkhead, and the coach bolt is fitted through the lower tie member and chassis. 14 A very strong front axle is essential for such a vehicle. Make two crossmembers and four spacer blocks. Drill the axle holes in the two outer and two inner spacer blocks. The blocks are now glued and screwed into place. Before glueing and screwing the blocks check that the axle holes align. 15 Shape up the front mudguards and screw onto the front axle. 16 The steering rope is fixed by passing it through two holes drilled in the top of the axle cross member. 17 It is necessary to fit some form of brake. The one detailed here is very simple but reasonably effective. Tip the end with a piece of rubber tyre, as it helps to stop rapid wear on the brake lever. A large hefty screw is necessary to fix it to the side of the chassis. Use a washer under the screw head. 18 A coping saw is ideal for cutting the circular headlamps. A dowel rod passes right through the bonnet side panels, the headlamps being glued on each end. 19 Attach the number plate to the front axle. 20 Painting is of your own choice, but I suggest that the radiator is painted in matt black.
Cutting list Main chassis 1 off 832 X 200 X 25mm (32% x 7Vs x 1 in) Timber 1 off 356 X 79 X 22mm (14 x 3y8 x Vein) Timber Rear lower frame 2 off 356 X 73 X 22mm (14 x 2Vs x Tsin) Timber 2 off 330 X 73 X 22mm (13 x IVe x ^sin) Timber Seat 2 off 330 X 28 X 22mm (13 xIVs x ^sin) * Timber 6 off 356 X 28 X 22mm (14 x IVs x Tsin) Timber Brake lever 1 off 438 X 41 X 22mm (17% x lYs x Tsin) Timber Side panel 2 off 346 X 330 X 12mm (13y8 x 13 x y2in) Plywood Mudguard 2 off 330x67 x25mm (13x2y8x1in) Timber Seat back 1 off 419 X 235 X 9mm (16% x 9y4 x ysin) Plywood 2 off 184 X 25 X 22mm (7y4 x 1 x Tsin) Timber Engine bulkhead 2 off 260 X 222 X 12mm (1074 x 87* x %in) Plywood Grill Make from 12 x 8 x 2280mm {Vi x yi6 x 90in) Timber Bonnet side panel 2 off 276 X130 X 6mm (1078 x 578 x y4in) Plywood Bonnet lower tie 1 off 276 X 41 X 22mm (1078 x 178 x 78in) Timber Curved section of bonnet Make from 22 x 9 x 4470mm (% x Ve x 176in) Timber Bonnet hinge ridge 1 off 276 X 38 X 20mm (1078 x 1% x Ttin) Timber Radiator cap 1 off 102mm(4in) longx41mm(iy8in) diameter timber Head lamps 2 off 32mm(iy4in) longx 89mm(3%in) diameter timber 1 off 476mm (18y4in) long x 16mm (ysin) diameter dowel Cab fascia 1 off 356 X 305 X 12mm (14 x 12 x y2in) Plywood Front axle beams 2 off 622 X 70 X 22mm (24% x 274 x 78in) Timber spacers Make from 41 x 32 x 356mm (lYs xlV^ x14in) Timber Front mudguard 2 off 270 X194 X 6mm (1078 x IVs x Ttin) Plywood Front number plate 1 off 343 X 86 X 9mm (13% x 378 x Ysin) Plywood Anciilaries 4 off 203mm (8in) diameter road wheels 2 off 222mm(8y4in) longx 9mm(y8in) diameter steel axles 1 off 483mm(19in) longx 9mm(78in) diameter steel axles 6 off Spring dome caps to suit 9mm (ysin) diameter axles 1 off 152mm(6in) longx 20mm (Tiin) diameter coach bolt, washer and nut 1 off 1830mm (72in) length of thick cord for steering
200(7Vb) PARTIALLY ASSEMBLED CHASSIS 146(5%)
330(13) REAR LOWER FRAME
194(7*/8) 6 HOLES DRILL 3(V8) DIAM AND CSK OUTER FACE □• 9 n r • 9 1 1 • 9 1 1 0 9 n r 9 9 1 T e 9 J 11 II ' 44(13/4) T 70(23/4) 70(23/4) 1_ :y 1 -o -o - O o o 419( 16V2) ^ SEAT BACK 9(3/8) THICK i_ 28(1 Vs) J L-22(V8) 22(V8)-^ 356(14) 22(V8) SIX 28 X 22(1 V8 X Vs) STRIPS EQUI SPACED -.-28(1V8) 25(1)- 330(13) 25(1) RADIUS SEAT FRONT MUDGUARDS MAKE TWO 6(y4) THICK CAB FASCIA 12(V2) THICK
16 STRIPS 22 X 9 X 276(V8 x ^/s x 10Ve) PINNED TO THE BULKHEADS PARTIALLY ASSEMBLED BONNET 20(%) ENGINE COMPARTMENT FRONT AND REAR BULKHEADS MAKE TWO 1 2(V2) THICK 9(3/8) DIAM \ ■V 41(1%) r ■ 9(3/8) DIAM COACH BOLT X 152(6) LONG, WASHERS AND NUT 22(V8) 276(10%) 25(1) DIAM 38(1 V2)- T 60(23/8) 41(1%) DIAM RADIATOR CAP BONNET LOWER TIE MEMBER LAYOUT OF GRILL 8(5/i6) wide X 12(y2) DEEP STRIPS PINNED TO FRONT FACE OF FRONT BULKHEAD 22(%) 25(1) DIAM — ^ 38(1’72) t ^i 276(1 OVs) 20(3/4) BONNET HINGE RIDGE 16(%)DIAM HOLE FOR HEADLAMP SUPPORT BAR 22(%) BONNET SIDE PANEL MAKE TWO 6(V4) THICK 54 130(5V8)
J 2 HOLES 16(5/8) DIAM IN ... 60(23/8) TOP MEMBER ONLY, NUMBER PU\TE 20(3/4) FOR ROPE / i/--n 70(23/4) } *_L_ OUTER SPACER 0 1 0 0 i 0 0 -0- ' \ 1 10 ^ 140(51/2) ^ \ 1 \ INNER \ SPACER 9(3/8) DIAM 622(241/2) L_ ^ 140(51/2) ^ 8 HOLES DRILL 3(V8) DIAM X CSK OUTER FACE FRONT AXLE CROSSMEMBER make TWO 22(V8) THICK (showing position of outer and inner spacers, and number plate) 3‘ P 5(13/8) 9(3/8) DIAM r; 1- 0-^ 41(15/8) T" 25(1) 102(4) n32(1’A) r 25(1) 9(3/8) DIAM _ 41(15/8) -- T 70(23/4) 32(1’A) FRONT AXLE OUTER SPACER MAKE TWO FRONT AXLE INNER SPACER MAKE TWO 12(1/2) RADIUS 6(1/4) DIAM 4(1V8) 200(7%) 20(y.) , LJ t 20(3/4)-J ■n438(171/4) ^ 35(13/8) BRAKE LEVER 22(V8) thick 38(11/2) HEADLAMP make two _343(131/2)_ ' 86(33/8) i_L_ FRONT NUMBER PLATE 9(3/8) THICK
56 .sS*
This large machine fills the minds of youngsters with so many possibilities. ‘Why don’t we empty the fish pond?’, or ‘We could pull some logs up the garden for the fire’, or ‘I wonder if it’s strong enough to lift my tricycle’, or ‘With the bucket tied on I could empty the sand pit’. Being mobile, the crane can be moved to different locations in the garden, that is if you can get big brother or sister to help push it along! The control console has three winding handles and it takes most children a few minutes to find out just how to operate them. The bottom handle controls the raising and lower¬ ing of the crane jib. The middle handle raises and lowers the block and tackle. Both these handles are fitted with ratchets for holding the jib or block and tackle in a fixed position. The top lever is only used when operating the sand bucket and allows the bucket to be opened and closed. There is no need to fit a ratchet on this handle. A strong good quality nylon cord is recommended for ‘rigging’ this machine but make sure that children understand that winding cord around arms, legs and necks etc, is a very dangerous game. The stabiliser should always be fully extended when the crane is lifting loads. The crane can be conveniently broken down into three parts for con¬ struction - chassis, cab and crane jib. The crane should be either varnished or painted. You will find that painting or varnishing is easier if some of the parts are not bolted on, for example cab, console and jib. Make sure that the paints or varnish used are non¬ toxic. The chassis 1 Study the three-dimensional drawing of the chassis and familiarise yourself with the parts. The construc¬ tion consists of a plywood decking onto which are screwed chassis members. The central chassis member runs the full length of the plywood decking and it is through this that the front axle is secured with a coach bolt. Before positioning the cross members drill the holes to take the stabiliser bar. Glue the dowel rods into the stabiliser bar and push them through the holes in the cross members. They are prevented from coming out by blocks of wood glued onto the other ends. 2 A block of wood is screwed to the side of the chassis to act as a step for the driver. The screws do need to be of a fairly large size, remember children will be stepping on it all the time! 3 The front axle is like a ‘wooden sandwich’. The four centre blocks holding the axles are held together by two strips of wood. The centre axle blocks should be drilled in pairs to make alignment of the axles easy. The front axle rod is in two halves, both ends being secured by spring clips in the centre blocks. Glue and screw the front axle block together. 4 Drill holes in the top section of the axle to take the rope with which to pull the crane along. 5 Position the axle on the chassis and clamp in place. Now drill the hole to take the coach bolt. Bolt the axle on with washers under the nut. The cab 6 The cab sides are the same external shape but that is where the similarity ends. On one side there is a window, and on the other side is the door which allows easy access. Cutting out such large shapes really requires a jigsaw. The cab sides are formed of plywood and then a framework of pine is glued and screwed onto the inside of the cab sides. 7 The top of the cab com prises two roof cross members and a roof panel. Two bulkhead cross members hold the frame at the front and bulkheads at the back. The cab is therefore very well ‘braced’ at all points and is extremely strong. 8 The bulkhead at the back of the cab has three holes drilled through it to take the ‘rigging’. The holes that take the cord are ‘bushed’ with plastic tubing. Cut suitable lengths of plastic tube and insert these into the holes. This will prevent the cords fraying and cut down the friction when the cords are moving. 9 Screwed on to this bulkhead is a further cross member. There are two holes drilled in this to take the coach bolts that fasten the cab to the chassis. 10 The cab is held to the chassis at the front by the cab floor plate. The floor plate fits on top of the chassis framing. The plate is bolted to the chassis. Use coach bolts with wing nuts which makes dismantling a far easier job. Always check the floor bolts for tightness. 11 The seat is made from slats that are screwed to the framework. On the door side of the cab the seat support block is glued and screwed through the frame. On the window side of the cab the seat supports are simply screwed on to the plywood. Before screwing the slats in place, plane off any sharp corners and glasspaper to be sure no sharp edges are left. 12 In order to get the brake lever clear of the chassis it is necessary to fix a block of wood on to the window side of the cab. This block is glued and screwed in place. 13 Cut and screw the windscreen frames into position. While working at the front of the cab screw in the three ’eye hooks’ on to the bottom cab bulkhead. The purpose of the hooks is to
drill the pivot hole, for the crane jib. The guide plates are screwed on to the roof cross members from the under¬ side. Cut four support blocks and glue these to the guide plates and cross members. 15 Cut out a pair of console frame sides. Fix these firmly together with tape. Now mark on both sides the various positions of axles and bridging pieces. Do all the cutting and drilling while the sides are fixed together. 16 The console sides are held together by the bridging pieces which should now be glued and screwed in place. While fixing the sides it does help to have temporary dowel rods in the axle holes, this keeps the whole framework in line. 17 Study the winding handle assembly and make three identical units. You will only need two star wheels as the top winding handle does not need a ratchet holding device. 18 The winding handle is cut from plywood and square blocks are glued on to the back and axle unit. The reason being that there is very little glueing area for the plywood disc and axle unless the block is added. 19 Before final assembly of winding handles lubricate the axle holes with candle wax. 20 The locking lever and star wheels provide a positive locking device when loads are being lifted. The levers are bolted on to the sides of the console. Two screw eye hooks are fixed into the bottom bridging piece. These guide the cords onto the spindles. The jib 21 Prepare two lengths of timber for the jib. Fix both pieces together and carefully mark out all the recesses that have to be cut With both sides firmly together cut out the recesses for the seven cross members. Use a tenon saw to cut down the sides, the ‘waste wood’ is removed using a chisel and mallet Don’t attempt to remove all the waste wood from one side all at once otherwise it will lead to ugly splits. Work from both sides, turning the jib around in the vice. 22 Cut out the central cross member and the front cross member. These cross members carry the nylon cords. F^oles are drilled in them and ‘bushed’ with plastic tube. 23 Now fix the whole jib together before any glue is applied. This is always a good step whatever you are making just to see that all the pieces fit well. If they don’t adjustments can be made before the glue is applied. Assembly 24 Now we can assemble chassis, cab and jib. Using four coach bolts fix the chassis to the cab. Make sure that the bolt heads are in the floor plate and not the wing nuts as a child could be hurt by these. To do this you will have to lay the cab and chassis on their sides. Do the wing nuts up tightly making sure that washers are placed under the wing nuts. 25 The jib is fixed to the crane by a large dowel rod. Lubricate the dowel rod with candle wax, position the jib in the guide plates and tap the dowel rod into place. On the prototype it was found that the dowel rod required no further securing as it moves only very slightly when the jib is being elevated. Rigging 26 It is necessary to use a fairly substantial nylon cord for the winding and winching mechanisms on this crane. All the ‘rigging’ follows the same route through the crane cab- from the console to the bottom of the cab and through the screw eyes, under the floor plate and through the back cross member and up on to the jib. Various operations are carried out by different handles, starting from the bottom of the console, a The bottom handle controls the raising and lowering of the jib. It is important that the cord for this handle goes through all the middle holes. It is tied off on the back cross member of the jib. When the handles are turned the jib is either raised or lowered, b The middle handle moves the block and tackle. It is this handle that will probably get the most use. The cord goes through the cab as pre¬ viously described and then through the bushed hole in the back of the jib. From here it passes through the centre cross member and through the front cross member to be attached to the block and tackle. c The top handle is designed for the sand bucket or for extra winching power. It does not have a ratchet locking device. The cord follows the same route as the other rigging right through the front cross member where it is tied until wanted. When it is being used this ‘spare line’ is attached to the bucket opening cord. The block and tackle is removed and the line attached to the bucket support frame. When the middle handles are moved the bucket can be raised or lowered. When the bucket is required to empty its contents the top handles are moved and the bucket opens. Lifting tackle and chains (block and tackle) 27 This is made from an offcut of wood and allows children to attach all sorts of objects to the crane. Two large diameter screwed eyes are attached to the top of the block. A chain is fastened to both eyes and joined with a metal ring at the top. This is then tied on to the nylon cord from the crane. In the bottom of the block is set one screw eye on to which a length of chain is attached. The fourth screw eye is f
i Cutting list Chassis assembly loff 864 X 451 X 9mm (34 x 17% x %in) Plywood 1ofF 864 X 67 x44mm (34 x 2y8 x1%in) Timber 2 off 521 X 67 X 44mm (20y2 x 278 x 1%in) Timber 4 off 159 X 67 X 44mm (6% x 2y8 x 1%in) Timber 1off 229 X 70 X 44mm (9 x 2% x 1%in) Timber Front axle cross member 2 off 457 X 95 X 22mm (18 x 3% x Vm) Timber spacers Make from 315 x 95 x 22mm (12% x 3% x yain) Timber Stabiliser 2 off 635mm(25in) longx22mm(y8in)diameter dowel 1 off 356 X 67 X 44mm (14% x 2y8 x 1%in) Timber 2 off 51 X 51 X 22mm (2 x 2 x %8in) Timber Cab wall panel 2 off 762 X 610 X 9mm (30 x 24 x Vain) Plywood frame Make from 5185 x 35 x 25mm (204 xlVa xlin) Timber seat support Make from 292x35 x25mm (11%x1%'x1in) Timber brake block 1 off 95 X 67 X 44mm (3% x 2y8 x 1%in) Timber seat block 1 off 225 x102 x25mm (8y8x4x1in) Timber seat bars 6 off 381 X 44 X 25mm (15 x1% xlin) Timber Roof panel 1 off 400 X178 X 9mm (15% x 7 x yain) Plywood Roof cross members 2 off 400 X102 X 22mm (15% x 4 x yain) Timber Jib guide plates 2 off 508 X 203 X 22mm (20 x 8 x yain) Timber Support blocks Make from 495 x 89 x 28mm (19% x 3% x IVain) Timber Lower rear cross member loff 400 X102 X 22mm (15% x 4 x yain) Timber 1 off 356 X 32 X 22mm (14 x 1% x yain) Timber Brake lever 1 off 530 X 44 X 20mm (20y8 x 1% x %in) Timber Floor plate 1 off 381 X178 X 9mm (15 x 7 x yain) Plywood Windscreen frame 2 off 400 X 89 X 9mm (15% x 3y2 x yain) Plywood Bulkhead cross members 2 off 400 X102 X 22mm (15% x 4 x yain) Timber Bulkhead panel 1 off 400 X121 X 9mm (15% x 4% x yain) Plywood Console frame 2 off 381 X175 X 9mm (15 x SVs x yain) Plywood 1 off 102 X 76 X 22mm (4 x 3 x yain) Timber loff 76 X 76 X 22mm (3 x 3 x yain) Timber loff 64 X 76 X 22mm (2% x 3 x yain) Timber loff 57 X 76 X 22mm (2% x 3 x yain) Timber Winding handle discs Make from 298 x 197 x 9mm (11% x 7% x %in) Plywood spindles Make from 991mm(39in) long x 16mm (Vain) diameter dowel blocks Make from 286 x 44 x 22mm (IIV4 x 1% x ^ain) Timber Starwheel Make from 96 x 44 x 12mm (3% x 1% x %in) Plywood Locking lever 2 off 178 X 70 X 9mm (7 x 2% x Vain) Plywood Jib arm side plates 2 off 1670 X 111 X 22mm (65% x 4y8 x yain) Timber pivot pin 1 off 254mm(lOin) long x 16mm(yain) diameter dowel cross members 7 off 102 X 35 X 25mm (4 xiya xlin) Timber loff 165 X 35 X 25mm (6% xiya xlin) Timber Central jib cross member loff 305 x102x25mm (12x4xlin) Timber Front jib cross member loff 127 X 102 x25mm (5x4 xlin) Timber Bucket support frame loff 235 X 35 X 22mm (9% x lya x yain) Timber 2 off 260 X 25 X 22mm (10% x 1 x yain) Timber 2 off 197 X 35 x25mm (7% xl^/a xlin) Timber 4 off 44mm(1%in) longx9mm(y8in) diameter dowel Bucket 4 off 229 X140 X 9mm (9 x 5% x yain) Plywood 2 off 241 X 203 X 6mm (9y2 x 8 x %in) Plywood 2 off 86 X 203 X 6mm (3y8 x 8 x %in) Plywood — 59
Lifting block 1off 140 X 70 X 70mm (SVi x 2^4 x 2y4in) Timber Ancillaries --- 4 off 203mm fSin) diameter road wheels 2 off 178mm(7in') long x 12mm(14in) diameter steel front axles 1off 546mm(2r/iin1 longx12mmr/6in) diameter steel rear axle 4 off Plain washers to suit 12mm (^/^in) diameter axles 6 off Spring dome caps to suit 12mm (Viin) diameter axles 1off 140mmrS^/iinl longx9mm(y8in) diameter coach bolt 1off Lock washer and nut to suit 4 off 64mm('2i/4in') long x 6mm(y4in) diameter coach bolts 4 off Lock washers and nuts to suit 1off 4500mm nSOinl length of strong rope 9 off 51mm(2in') long x 9mm(y8in) o/d x 6mm(V4in) i/d plastic tubes 1off 191 X 20mm {IVi x ^tin) wide webbing 3 off Brass upholstery pins 10 off 20mm (ytin) screwed eyes 2 off 54mm('2V8in') long x 6mmf/tin) diameter coach bolts 2 off Lock washers and nuts to suit 2 off 32mm('1V4in') long x 6mm(y4in) diameter round headed bolts 4 off Plain washers to suit 2 off Lock washers and nuts to suit 3 off Staples to secure cables to winding handles 1off 635mm (25in) length of chain for lifting block VIEW ON UNDERSIDE OF CHASSIS,FRONT AXLE AND STABILIZER ASSEMBLY 60
295(11%) CHASSIS ASSEMBLY STABILIZER 61
64(21/2) 9(3/8) DIAM \ 64(21/2) CO IT) CD 2 HOLES 12(1/2) DIAM IN TOP MEMBER ONLY CHASSIS ASSEMBLY 12(1/2) DIAM 1 ' T1 ; 1-7 -ri- —ii— ::: y ::: 102(4) 102(4) 457(18) / 1 1 i -^ 76(3) i 1 1 - = 44(13/4) 95(33/4) FRONT AXLE ASSEMBLY 22(V8) thick PARTLY ASSEMBLED CAB CAB ASSEMBLY SECURED TO CHASSIS WITH FOUR 6(1/4) DIAM X 64(21/2) LONG COACH BOLTS, WASHERS AND NUTS 62
63
FRONT ROOF CROSS MEMBER n r- POSITION OF U/JIB GUIDE PLATES TWO WINDSCREEN FRAMES r102(4) L 1 1_1_ 1 ’ 1 ' -i^-i 1 ! 1 1 ^-1- 1 1_1_ 114(4V2) position of p SUPPORT BLOCKS n I I II 11 \ 1_L_U_I TWO BULKHEAD CROSS MEMBERS ROOF CROSS MEMBERS MAKE TWO CAB FRONT ASSEMBLY oRnMm/. \ 35(1 ^/s) THREE 20(3/4) DIAM SCREWED EYES IN LOWER CROSS MEMBER ONLY M^ -M RADIUS / 1 ' / II II ' ' (• /)- , 400( 153/4) ^ “ 35(13/8) 35(13/8) CM BULKHEAD PANEL 9(3/8) THICK FIXING STRIP GLUED AND SCREWED TO OUTER FACE OF CROSS MEMBER \ 356(14) \ T 295(113/8) 1 n-rr 32(1 V4) r16(3/8) ^ 6{Va ) DIAM CONTROL CONSOLE FIXING HOLES - ON AsSMB?YTn luiT^ NEAR LOWER EDGE OF TOP CROSS MEMBER AND ANGLE OF MAIN rHA<i^iq UPPER EDGE OF LOWER MEMBER. DRILL IN LHAbbib CONJUNCTION WITH CONTROL CONSOLE CAB BULKHEAD CROSS MEMBER MAKE TWO 35(13/8) 51(2) 51(2) jU35(13/8) r ^ 400(153/4) 102(4) i f -- “1 20(3/4) h5 / 3 HOLES 9(3/8) DIAM, EACH FITTED WITH 9(3/8) 0/D X 6(y4) I/D PLASTIC TUBE 51 (2) LONG 32(1’A) 1 1 FRC \ 2 CAB SE HOLES 6( )NT 1 A ~ CURING V4)DIAM 51(2) ‘ ^ 381 (15) LOWER REAR CROSS MEMBER/ CAB FIXING STRIP ASSEMBLY CAB FLOOR PLATE 9(3/8) THICK 64
SAND PIT TOYS-C Instructions and plans for these toys can be found on pages 9 to 27
•OUTDOOR TOYS- Instructions and plans for these toys can be found on pages 29 to 41
cf-' j I •LARGE TOYS- Instructions and plans lor these toys can be found on pages 43 to 69
•PRETEND TOYS'
3 BRASS BRAKE LEVER 20(%) THICK WINDSCREEN FRAME MAKE TWO 9(%) THICK LOWER EDGE OF BOTTOM FRAME TO BE CHAMFERED ON ASSEMBLY 51(2) 38(1 V2) 64(2y2) SUPPORT BLOCKS MAKE FOUR 28(1 Vs) THICK CONTROL CONSOLE FRAME ASSEMBLY 65
STAPLE TO STAR WHEEL SECURE CABLE (CENTRE WINDING HANDLE) WINDING HANDLE ASSEMBLY MAKE THREE (ONLY 2 WITH STARWHEELS) STARWHEEL PINNED TO SPINDLE AND SECOND HANDLE DISC SECURED IN POSITION AS CONSOLE FRAME IS ASSEMBLED. WATCH CONFIGURATION OF STARWHEEL WITH DIRECTION OF ROTATION OF HANDLE, LOCKING LEVER TO ENGAGE IN STARWHEEL CUTOUT TO HOLD ‘LOAD’ IN PLACE CONTROL CONSOLE ASSEMBLY SECURED TO CAB BULKHEAD CROSS MEMBERS WITH TWO 6(1/4) DIAM X 54(2V8) LONG COACH BOLTS, WASHERS AND NUTS 16(5/8) DIAM STARWHEEL MAKE TWO 12(1/2) THICK LOCKING LEVER MAKE TWO 9(3/8) THICK 54(21/8)
o z o QC LU m _ F' , 1 \ CA 1 P --^ o z o s 5) w fi- u- a; < m .-. J?- CO oT X CO 9 y O O C\J (35 4- 1^=1: lO L CVJ V. in ,_ Li 1 } CsJ o (S)ZSL CVJ ’in cc u m s UJ s 0) 0) O cc o ffl "5 o cc m > z < -I 0. I >- ffl s. LU ffl ffl < ffl CC < Q. (1^)201. 1 - 1 1 f 1 .1 L 1 ^ 1 sJ-GO CVJ . B \ (Vi9)99t (8/Efr)LU 67 1670(653/4) 7 CROSS MEMBERS, 35x25x 102(13/8 X 1 x4) FITTED IN POSITIONS MARKED THUS • JIB ARM SIDE PLATE MAKE TWO 22(78) THICK
LIFTING TACKLE AND CHAINS 140^51/2^ 203(8) -9(3/8) 9(3/8) 1 6(1/4) DIAM BUCKET HALF MAKE TWO SIDE WALLS - 9(3/8) THICK INCLINED WALL AND FLOOR eCA) THICK
168(6^8)197(73/4) BUCKET AND SUPPORT FRAME ASSEMBLY 260(101/4) -•—25(1) 25(1)—► _ — € 11 11 1 — CVJ •! 11 in _L_eg BUCKETSUPPORT FRAME ASSEMBLY 69
70
Young children have wonderfully refreshing imaginations. Just listen to any group of youngsters playing and you will discover that the tricycle is a star ship, a large cardboard box is a jungle in darkest Peru and the sand pit is a desert with forts and the Foreign Legion! Now build a playhouse and you will suddenly discover that the garden is full of wolves and dozens of little pigs all trying to get through the door to safety at the same time. Alternatively, Little Red Riding Hood is walking through the forest (cabbage garden) pursued by a hungry looking wolf in Wellington boots, cowboy hat and quite naturally on his or her trusty steed the tricycle. This play house has room for tables, chairs, cooker etc. and four young children. If you intend to leave the house erected in summer months it is necessary to screw the roof into place otherwise an occasional gust of wind may blow the roof off. Basic construction Four equal sides of plywood are joined together at the corners. The ends fit into ‘slots’ and are then held in place by coach bolts. Two roof beams hold the apex ends in place and a ridge board secures them at the top. The roof covering is made from two sheets of melamine faced hardboard. The two sheets are laced together at the top with a length of nylon cord. 1 Plywood is available in sheet form measuring 8'x 4'. Two sheets cut in half form the basic house. 2 The corners are joined together by wood strip guides. These slots are formed by screwing strips of timber onto the two end walls of the house. First screw one strip onto the outside edge of the wall. Now position pieces of scrap 9mm (Vein) plywood against the first strip and position the second strip against these. A push fit is ideal - remember that after painting or varnishing the wood will be fractionally thicker and the fit tighter. Very tight joints make it very difRcult to assemble and dismantle the house. 3 When a push fit has been achieved, drill holes at top and bottom right through the strips and the wall. The diameter of the hole will depend on the coach bolts available. It is advisable to buy ‘wing’ nuts for the bolts then you will be able to assemble and dismantle without a spanner. 4 Coach bolts are available in a variety of lengths. When buying bolts for this house I found the bolt end projecting some way beyond the wing nut. It is very important that this extra length is cut off with a hacksaw, other¬ wise some very nasty scratches will result. 5 The four wood strip guides are screwed onto all the end walls. The screws need to be put in on the plywood side of the \Vall, screwing into the wood strip. Make sure to counter¬ sink all screw heads. 6 Mark out the door and window with a good bold pencil line. All internal cuts have a common problem and that is all conventional saws have a back or frame which cannot be used on this sort of cut The hand saw for this task is a keyhole saw, but frequently the size of the teeth tend to tear the layers of plywood and leave ugly ‘spilches’. It is therefore well worth consider¬ ing the purchase of a jigsaw or attach¬ ment for the electric drill. This tool is easy to operate and if you fit a metal cutting blade its fine teeth will help prevent the ‘spilches’ when cutting the plywood. 7 Drill several small holes in a line along the window line. Enlarge the holes just enough to get the jigsaw blade in. By using this method all the windows and the door can be cut out. 8 After cutting out, work around the edges with glasspaper to remove any small splinters and roughness. 9 The door will get a great deal of use so it must be fixed very securely. Two battens are screwed, one onto the door, the other onto the wall. The hinges are then screwed onto the battens. This method of fixing is far better than attaching the hinges direct onto the plywood 10 Assemble the four walls and bolt them together. Position the roof beams and mark where the notches need to be cut in the roof beams and side walls. 11 Now notch the top of the roof beams to take the two triangular ‘A frames. 12 As the notches in the roof beams are near the ends there is a tendency for the pieces to break off, due to the direction of the grain. To prevent this happening, laminate (stick on) small pieces of plywood and notch these in exactly the same way as the roof beams. 13 Mark and cut out a pair of roof ‘A’ frames (triangles) cutting notches to take the roof beams. 14 The roof panels are stiffened with four wood strips along the edges. Holes are drilled in the panels to take 71
nylon cord which forms the hinge at the top. It is advisable to use an oil tempered hardboard which is resistant to rain. 15 The door catch can be fixed either on the outside or inside. I favour the catch fitted on the inside. The advan¬ tage here is that a young child can never get shut in by being unable to reach the latch. Don’t forget that the hinges will need to be sited on the opposite side from the catch. 16 The door catch and latch bar are cut from pine. The latch is fixed on with a small nut and bolt. 17 If the house is to be left outside it is recommended that it is painted, and four temporary screws fitted at the four corners of the roof. Cutting list Front and rear wails 2 off 1220 X1220 X 9mm (48 x 48 x Tain) Plywood 2 off 610 X 25 X 16mm (24 x 1 x yain) Timber Door catch 1ofF 102 X 28 X 25mrh (4 xIVs xlin) Timber Door catch latch 1 off 165x25 x16mm (6y2x1 xVain) Timber End walls 2 off 1220 X1220 X 9mm (48 x 48 x Tain) Plywood 8 off 1220 X 25 X 22mm (48 x 1 x ^ain) Timber Roof beams 2 off 1366 X 70 X 22mm (53% x 2% x ^ain) Timber Roof‘A’ frames 2 off 1170 X 305 X 9mm (46 x 12 x Vain) Plywood Ridge board 1off 1366 X 70 X 22mm (53% x 2% x Tfein) Timber Roof panels 2 off 1220 X 762 X 3mm (48 x 30 x Vain) Hardboard 4 off 762 X 98 X 22mm (30 x 3ya x ^ain) Timber Ancillaries 2 off 51mm (2in) long brass hinges and screws Strong cord to lace the roof PARTIALLY ASSEMBLED HOUSE (Showing position of ROOF BEAMS and slot in ROOF ‘A’ FRAME for the ROOF RIDGE BOARD) 72
CHAMFER TO SUIT SLOPE OF ROOF FOUR WOOD STRIP GUIDES 25x22x1220(1 xV8x48) 9(%) 25(1) A T Section Y - Y 16(5/8) 50(2) HINGE 25(1) Section X — X
NOTE: All walls viewed from outside the building ^ 228(9) 228(9) 228(9) ^ , 228(9) « 432(17) ^ > * 1220(48) 356(14) /38(1’72) RADIUS ir , 1220(48) REAR WALL 9(%) THICK r~12{V2) 1365(53%) ^9(%) ^(1) ru" 64(2V2) 9(%) 9(%) 25(1). “un 64(2y2) ROOF BEAMS 22(V8) thick make TWO 170(2%) 9(%) 9(%) THICK MAKE TWO
762(30) 1220(48) 16 EQUISPACED 6(V4) DIAM HOLES CHAMFER TO SLOPE OF ROOF 4+ + * + -tt + t + + + + 25(1) 38(1 V2) -J 38(iy2) U 98(3^8) ROOF PANELS 3(V8) THICK HARDBOARD MAKE TWO U T 98(3V8) 22(V8) 1366(53%) 25(1) 1^25(1) |,9P/b) ROOF RIDGE BOARD 22(V8) THICK 25(1 )J 9(3^ J70(23/4) “f 3(V8) DIAM HOLE LATCH 16(%) THICK CATCH
To keep construction methods as simple as possible, I have designed both table and benches to be made in the same way, the only difference being the relative sizes of legs, rails, etc. 1 The three-dimensional drawing showing the underside of the table illustrates very clearly the construction. 2 Theonly two joints used are the halving joint and mortice and tenon. 3 The mortice and tenon is perhaps the only specialist joint that requires a marking gauge which some do-it- yourself carpenters may not possess. 4 Table and benches all have a foot, top support and leg. 5 The top and foot are jointed to the leg by halving joints. As the name suggests half of the leg -is cut away and half the foot support, thus allowing both pieces to be assembled together. 6 From the drawings mark off the positions of the joints. When you are sure that all is right (check twice cut once) start cutting the halving joint on the leg. Cleaner cuts are always made if, before cutting with the saw, you use a marking knife to go over the pencil lines. 7 The secret of good joints is always clear precise marking cut. 8 The other joint is the mortice and tenon. A mortice is a hole and a tenon the piece of wood that goes into it. You will need a mortice or firmer chisel to cut the hole. The position of the mortice is marked by using a mortice Cutting list gauge. This gauge has two sharp points on it that gouge out two parallel ‘tracks’ in the wood showing where to cut the mortice hole. The mortice hole is cut in the legs and the tenon on the ends of the rail. 9 On the outside edge of the leg the mortice hole is elongated, this is done to take a wooden wedge that will be hammered and glued in when final assembly takes place. 10 Only after all the joints have been cut is any shaping done. Besides the use of bow or coping saw to get the curves on the legs you will find a spokeshave useful. 11 Holes are drilled in the top sup¬ ports to take the screws that hold the table and bench tops on. 12 The tops are formed by strips of batton screwed on to the underside of the plywood top. 13 You will need a cramp to hold the joints firmly together while the glue is setting. The procedure is: i Glue the top and foot to the leg. ii Glue the leg tie bar in to the legs. Hold in place with a cramp while little wooden wedges are glued in. A small hammer is needed to tap the wedges in place. ill Clean off any surplus glue, iv Screw the top on. Dencii Tod 1 off 610 X 279 X 9mm (24 x 11 x Tsin) Plywood 2 off 610 X 22 X 16mm (24xy8x5/^6in) Timber 2 off 235 X 22 X 16mm (9y4xy8xy8in) Timber Tnn «:i innort 2 off 229 x41 x22mm (9 xIVs x^in) Timber Lee 2 off 229 X 95 X 22mm (9 x 3^4 x Ysin) Timber ‘-^6-- Foot 2 off 305 X 73 X 22mm (12 x 2% x Yein) Timber Tie bar 1off 521 X 57 X 22mm {IQi'A x 2V4 x %in) Timber Table ___ Table top 1 off 762 x349 x9mm (30x13y4xy8in) Plywood 2 off 762X22 X 16mm (30x%xy8in) Timber 2 off 305 X 22 X 16mm (12 x y8 x y8in) Timber Tnn <;i innort 2 off 298 X 41 X 22mm (liyt x T/s x Ysin) Timber 1 ee 2 off 406 X 95 X 22mm (16 x 3^4 x y8in) Timber '-^6 Foot 2 off 381 X 73 X 22mm (15 x Tk x Ysin) Timber Tie bar__ 1 off 584 X 83 X 22mm (23 x 3y4 x y8in) Timber
279(11) BENCH TOP - 610 X 279 X 9(24 x 11 x Va) BENCH TOP ASSEMBLY 78
Si 229(9) i '•-^- -=-^ II II 95( 33/4) t TOP SUPPORT MAKE TWO ^2(V2) r44(13/4) 22(V8) 22(Ve) "T“ 41(13/8) 22(V8) in 521(201/2) LEG TIE BAR
349(13%) TABLE TOP - 762 x 349 x 9(30 x 13% x %) TABLE TOP ASSEMBLY 80
-L C\J '» T • I /a; 95(33/4) \ _ 16(5/8) 1 3(5/ TOP SUPPORT ^ MAKE TWO 3(5/ □ s) FOOT MAKE TWO LEG TIE BAR 83(3 Va)
82
4 Many children thoroughly enjoy helping in the kitchen and therefore a small cooker is a real bonus. The little perspex window in the door will help to keep an eye on the pastries. To simulate nobs on the cooker I used three black wheels. The cooker burners were painted with silver paint. 1 Mark out and cut to size two side panels. 2 Cut out the back panel and radius the top corners. 3 The back is screwed in place and the front of the cooker held together by the two cross members. 4 To simulate control knobs I used small black wheels and spring caps. Any knob is suitable for this purpose. 5 The top is glued and panel pinned in place. The burners I made using a coping saw. The saucepan support frame is made from small strips of wood glued on to the top. 6 The door has a cut-out window which is covered with a perspex panel. This is not essential but makes a good feature. 8 Inside the cooker two small shelf supports are screwed on to the cooker sides. The shelf and supports are set back from the front of the cooker to allow the door to close. 9 Fit a small block of wood to act as a door stop. A small plastic door catch can be fitted in the top of the cross member. 10 To prevent accidental damage to cooker door when opening, screw eyes and nylon cord are attached inside. 7 Battens are screwed on to the top and bottom of the door. The top batten functions as the handle and the Cutting list bottom one as a fixing point for the hinges. Side panels 2 off' 533 X194 X 22mm (21 x 7% x Tsin) Timber Shelf supports 2 off 152 X 32 X 22mm (6 xTA xTsin) Timber Shelf 1 off 305 X159 X 9mm (12 x x Tain) Plywood Base 1 off 349 X191 X 22mm (13^4 x x ^ain) Timber Back 1 off 584 X 349 X 9mm (23 x 13^4 x Tain) Plywood Top 1 off 349 X 200 X 6mm (13^4 x TA x y4in) Plywood 2 off 311 X 20 X 9mm (1274 x 74 x Tain) Plywood 4 off 142 X 20 X 9mm (578 x Ti x Tain) Plywood 2 off 60mm (2y8in) diameter x 9mm (Tain) thick Plywood Cross members 2 off 349 X 54 X 22mm (13T4 x 278 x Tain) Timber Door 1 off 422 X 302 X 9mm (1678 x IITa x Tain) Plywood 1 off 302 X 38 X 22mm (IITa x VA x Tain) Timber 1 off 302 X 22 X 16mm (IITa x Ta x Tain) Timber Ancillaries _______ 3 off 38mm (172in) diameter wheels 3 off 57mm(274in) longx 6mm(74in) diameter steel rods 6 off Dome spring caps to suit 6mm (74in) diameter rods 2 off 51mm (2in) chromed hinges and screws 2 off Screwed eyes 1off 305mm (12in) long length of nylon cord 1 off 254 X127 X 2mm (10 x 5 x 76in) transparent plastic_ —-83
DOOR X STOP/CATCH SHELF - 159x305x9 (6V4X 12x3/8) PINNED TO SUPPORTS BASE -191 X 349 X 22(7y2 x 133/4 x Vs) SCREWED TO UNDERSIDE OF SIDE PANELS 22(V8) SIDE PANEL 22(V8) thick make TWO 4 r 25(1) RADIUS 349(133/4) BACK PANEL 9(3/8) THICK 84 584(23)
200(7%) 3HOLES6(y4)DIAM L r22(%) -+ T ; ^ 178(7) ^ I 349(1374) 54(2V8) 1 Control Knob Assembly THREE 38(1 Vz) DIAM WHEELS THREE 6(V4) DIAM STEEL RODS x 57(274) LONG SIX DOME SPRING CAPS TO SUIT 6(V4) DIAM ROD + + + -t- 54(278) 349(1374) UPPER FRONT CROSS MEMBER LOWER FRONT CROSS MEMBER WITH CONTROLS 22(%) THICK 22(V8) thick BURNERS - 60(2%) DIAM x9(%) THICK MADE UP OF 20 x 9(% x %) STRIPS TOP 6(74) THICK
86
All young children have a special friend (old teddy or blanket) who needs to be put to bed at night. This rocking cradle is a perfect place for all tired bears to get a peaceful night. This cradle has been designed for use only as a play item and should not be used for babies. 1 The frame of the rocking cradle is constructed in the same way as the table and benches ie using mortice tenon and halving joints. 2 The cradle supports have large diameter holes at the top. These are best drilled using a ‘flat bit’ in an electric drill. You will find a drill stand of tremendous help, but not essential. 3 The cradle sides are secured using a simple lap joint. A tenon saw and chisel are necessary for this process. Mark out clearly with a marking knife and cut away the waste wood. 4 Shaping of the sides and ends is only done after the joints have been cut but before the cradle is glued together. 5 The shaping of cradle sides, legs, rail etc will be far easier if you have a spokeshave. Obviously these can be glasspapered smooth but it takes a great deal of time and glasspaper. 6 The cradle is held in the frame by dowel rods. The dowels are pushed through the cradle supports and glued in. The cradle has to be held in the frame while this is being done. A little candle wax rubbed on to the ends of the rods will make the cradle swing smoothly. Cutting list Cradle supports 2 off 514 X 95 X 22mm (20y4 x 3% x %in) Timber Feet 2 off 381 X 73 X 22mm (15 x 2% x ^sin) Timber Tie bar 1 off 584 X 76 X 22mm (23 x 3 x ^sin) Timber Cradle head and foot 2 off 267 X197 X 22mm (IOV2 x 7% x %in) Timber Cradle sides 2 off 527 X197 X 22mm (20% x 7% x Ysin) Timber Cradle bottom 1 off 527 X 222 X 9mm (20y4 x 8y4 x ysin) Plywood Rocking pins 2 off 51mm(2in) long x 16mm(Vein) diameter dowel ROCKING PIN - 16(5/8) DIAM DOWEL 87
22(V8) 16(5/8) RADIUS / CRADLE SUPPORTS MAKE TWO 88 73(2%)
-1- CRADLE SIDES MAKE TWO CRADLE HEAD AND FOOT MAKE TWO 22(Ve) THICK 89
<;upfB SMUi SUPER
All model cars, lorries, tractors and motorbikes will at some time need fuel. This garage is well equipped with a car wash and a ramp. To add a little realism to the plywood I have used a miniature brick wall paper, although this is not essential. 1 Cut the base and radius the corners. 2 Mark in pencil the positions of the pump islands and mark garage building. 3 Mark and cut out a pair of side walls. Cut out front rear and roof. 4 Glue sides, front and back together. Sandpaper any rough edges. 5 The roof is glued on in two separate pieces. Where the two pieces meet make a chamfered joint not essential but far more satisfying and neater. 6 Place the finished main building on to the base and mark around it with a pencil. Remove the building and you will now have the position to drill four small holes for the fixing screws. It is best to glue and screw the main building on to the base. Make sure you countersink the screw holes on the base side. Care is necessary when screwing the base to the main building. 7 Shape up three petrol pump islands. These like the main buildings are glued and screwed on to the base. 8 The petrol pumps, car wash and ramp are glued on to the garage with epoxy-resin glue. This is very strong but it must be emphasised not suitable for children to use. 9 All the various accessories were bought at a large model shop. To give protection to the miniature brick paper I varnished over this, using matt finish varnish. Cutting list Base board 1 off 521 X 457 X 9mm Q.Qi'A x 18 x %in) Plywood Sidewalls 2 off 244 X152 X 9mm (9y8 x 6 x Tsin) Plywood Front and rear walls 2 off 235 X127 X 9mm (9.V4 x 5 x yain) Plywood Rear roof panel 1 off 343 X178 X 5mm x 7 x ^lain) Plywood Front roof panel 1 off 343 x105 x5mm (13''/ix4V8xyi6in) Plywood Pump islands 3 off 168 X 22 X 12mm (6y8 x Vs x "'/iin) Timber 91
41(15/8) 152(6)^ 457(18) 152(6) BASE BOARD 9(3/8) THICK PLYWOOD SHOWING POSITION OF BUILDING AND OTHER FIXTURES PETROL PUMP ISLANDS MAKE THREE 165(6V2)
70(2%) REAR ROOF PANEL FRONT ROOF PANEL SIDEWALLS 9(%) THICK MAKE TWO SHOWING POSITION OF FRONT AND REAR WALLS, AND DETAILS OF ROOF PANELS L20(%) T 235(9V4) 25 V)51(2) REAR WALL 9(%) THICK 51(2) m (O ,35^ 92(3®/8) ^ 20(%). 38 (13/8) 235(9y4) {V/2) 5 u FRONT WALL 9(3/8) thick 93
1 The buildings are built fronn plywood. The only parts that are not are the pine ‘ties’ that hold the back and front together, gutters and ridge pieces. 2 Mark out in pencil the ends. Fix them together with tape and cut them out as a pair. The ties that hold the building together fit into 'notches’. 3 The 'notches’ that take the ties are cut out with a tenon and coping saw. Using a fine toothed saw cut down both sides of the notch. Now using a coping saw with the blade turned at 90° to the ‘back’ cut out the bottom of the notch. Tidy up all the notches with a very sharp chisel. 4 Cut the ties to the same length and glue into the notches (see drawing showing roof and side walls removed). All children love playing with farms. There are so many possibilities with the variety of animals and machines now available. The multi-purpose stock building is sufficiently large to take tractors and combines. The method of construction for the multi-purpose stock building and the other two stock buildings is identical. I shall therefore describe the construction generally. 5 Prepare the roof panels. These are held in place by glueing and panel pinning. The panel pins are fixed through the plywood roof panel onto the ties. Use a panel pin punch to push the heads below the surface. You will have to support the ties while hammering the panel pins in. 6 To simulate corrugated sheet use a black pencil and draw lines the full length of the roof. This looks most effective especially on birch plywood which has a creamy colour. 7 Glue and panel pin the ridge pieces and gutters in place. Drainpipes are made from coax cable which is available at motor accessory shops. The clips holding the drainpipes to the walls are found in most electrical shops and are sold as cable clips. Cutting list Multi-purpose stock building Front and rear walls 2 off 711 X 229 X 9mm (28 x 9 x Tsin) Plywood Side walls 1 off 318 X133 X 5mm (12y2 x SIA x yi6in) Plywood 1 off 318 X175 X 5mm (12y2 x SVs x Tuin) Plywood Roof panels 1 off 560 X 337 X 5mm (22 x 13y4 x Tisin) Plywood 1 off 222 X 337 X 5mm (8^1 x 13y4 x Tiein) Plywood Roof and wall ties 11 off 318 X16 X 8mm (121^ x Vs x yi6in) Timber Guttering and roof ridge 4 off 337 X16 X 8mm (13y4 x Vs x yi6in) Timber Sinele span stock building Front and rear walls 2 off 403 X197 X 9mm (15y8 x IV^ x Tain) Plywood Side walls 2 off 229 X130 X 5mm (9 x 5y8 x yiain) Plywood Roof panels 2 off 248 X 235 X 5mm (9y4 x 974 x Tiain) Plywood Roof and wall ties 9 off 229 X16 X 8mm (9 x Vs x Viain) Timber Roof ridge 2 off 248 X16 X 8mm (974 x Vs x Yiain) Timber Stock building Front and rear walls 2 off 311 X197 X 9mm (1274 x 774 x 78in) Plywood Side walls 2 off 343 X149 X 5mm (^3^A x 578 x 7i6in) Plywood Roof panels 2 off 368 X191 X 5mm (14V^ x 772 x 7i6in) Plywood Roof and wall ties 9 off 343 x16 x8mm (13''7x78X Viain) Timber Guttering and roof ridge 4 off 368 X16 X 8mm (1472 x Vs x 76in) Timber 95
187(73/8) LU < :s o X O) 6 z Q ffi (/) U (/> (£ UJ < (/) UJ oa: ii JO 96
MINIATURE WORLDS Instructions and plans for these toys can be found on pages 91 to 133
Instructions and plans for tl SCANIA
Ms can be found on pages 135 to 173 HYSIsIt
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318 X 133 X 5(12y2 X S’A x Vie) MULTI PURPOSE STOCK BUILDING 97
SINGLE SPAN STOCK BUILDING - FRONT AND REAR WALLS 9(3/8) THICK MAKE TWO (ROOF AND SIDE WALLS OMITTED TO SHOW TYPICAL BARN CONSTRUCTION) 197(73/4)
108(4V4) TWO RIDGE PIECES STOCK BUILDING
I f 100
What ‘pretend’ farm would be complete without the pigsty. In order to prevent pigs getting ‘stuck’ inside the sty the roof lifts off allowing the child to arrange the pigs inside. Cutting list Dutch barn 1 The dutch barn front and rear frames will have to be cut out with a keyhole saw or jigsaw since there is not sufficient clearance between the saw and the saw frame to allow for cutting the bottom of the curve with a coping saw. 2 Once the frames have been cut out the ties are glued into the slots. 3 The roof as you can see is curved and therefore fixing the plywood can be a little difficult unless you follow this method: i Panel pin the roof into place on the middle tie. ii Gently bend the roof to the next tie and panel pin in place. iii Now go back to the other side of the centre tie and repeat the process. iv Bend the roof down to the last stretcher and panel pin in place. You will find a second pair of hands very helpful as the barn is a ‘leggy’ construction and not easy to hold while working on. Pigsty 1 Mark out and cut a pair of end walls. 2 Cut out the doorways in the front wall. The method is the same as the slots for the ties described in ‘stock buildings’. 3 Now glue the front and back walls onto the end walls. 4 Cut out all the notches in the run wall and internal walls. Glue together. 5 Shape up a suitable baseboard and glue the sty onto this. 6 Glue all the internal walls into the pigsty which only leaves the roof to be made. 7 The roof is glued onto a batten running lengthways. The batten is cut to fit inside the end walls and holds the roof securely in place. Dutch barn Front and rear frames 2 off 289 X 279 X 9mm (HTb x 11 x Tsin) Plywood Roof panel 1 off 425 X 305 X 5mm (16y4 x 12 x Ti6in) Plywood Roof and wall ties 7 off 368 X16 X 8mm (14^/i x Vs x yi6in) Timber Piwty Base board 1 off 457 X 229 X 9mm (18 x 9 x Tsin) Plywood End and internal walls 5 off 229 X 111 X 9mm (9 x 4% x Tsin) Plywood Front and rear walls 2 off 408 X 64 X 9mm (16 x 2y2 x Vein) Plywood Front run wall 1 off 408 X 28 X 9mm (16 xIVs x Tsin) Plywood Roof panels front 1 off 445 X 84 X 5mm (171/2 x 3yi6 x yi6in) Plywood rear 1 off 445 X 79 X 5mm (17y2 x 3y8 x y6in) Plywood Roof bracing 1 off 387 X 22 X 22mm (15y4 x Vs x Tain) Timber 101
m 5 SLOTS 8(5/16) WIDE X 16(5/8) DEEP DUTCH BARN - FRONT AND REAR FRAMES 9(5/8) THICK MAKE TWO 102
64{2V2) ROOF BRACING 387 X 22 X 22(1 S’A x Va x Vs) PIGSTY PIGSTY - END AND INTERNAL WALLS MAKE TWO END WALLS g/3/g\ THICK MAKE THREE INTERNAL WALLS DOORWAYS CUT IN PIGSTY - FRONT, REAR AND RUN WALLS 9(3/8) THICK 38(1 V2)
104
^4 Fences 1 These are best made in long strips of timber. Fix two lengths of timber together with tape and mark the positions of the dowel holes. Drill holes for the dowels. 2 Make a small simple jig to speed the cutting of equal lengths of dowel rod. Drill a small hole in the top of each dowel rod. Care is needed here as there is a tendency for the drill to split the back of the dowel as the drill point comes through. 3 Put a spot of glue on the end of each dowel rod and tap them gently into the ready prepared holes in the base. 4 Check for rough edges and sandpaper off any splinters. 5 Thread the string through the holes leaving a good length at each end. The fences are designed so that any length can be made. The fields can therefore be of any shape. The fences are tied together with string, thus allowing easy movement of animals from one field to another. Bunker The sides and wedge supports are shaped and then glued onto the base. If the silo is left until last you will probably have sufficient off-cuts of plywood to make two. Base board Side walls End wall 1 off 450X230X5mm (17T4x9xyi6in) 340 X 70 X 9mm (13% x 2^4 x Tsin) 144 X 70 X 9mm (5y8 x x Tain) 2 off Plywood Plywood 1 off Plywood Make from 9mm (Tsin) plywood off-cuts Bases Lengths and numbers as required from 20 x 6mm (% x y4in) timber Numbers off as required 35mm(T/8in) longx 6mm(V4in) diameter dowel
'Q, From this station star ships are able to refuel and refit for journeys into other galaxies. A small crane is fitted to raise damaged space ships as well as a lift to convey personnel to the upper level platform. There is a temptation when building space stations to add lots of masts, aerials, radar scanners etc. However younger children can damage themselves it they fall on these. Realism will depend on the age of the child and if he has younger brothers or sisters! 1 To provide a fixing point for the central support column it is essential to make a base stiffening frame. This frame is held together in the middle by a halving joint 2 Cut and shape the working platform central support column. The base of the column is cut out to fit over the stiffening frame. The column is then screwed and glued on to the frame. A good strong base and column are now ready to take all the landing platforms, fuel tanks etc. 3 Cut and shape the base board. Screw the base board on to the stiffening frame. 4 Make and screw the intermediate platform support arm in position on to the central support column. 5 Shape up the top level support structure. This is fitted on to the central support column by a housing joint. The holes that are drilled in this piece are just for effect 6 Cut out and shape up the three landing platforms. If you cut these out first you will have offcuts that will be ideal for making the space craft. 7 The elevator shaft is made from a length of standard plastic drain pipe (available from builders merchants). It is quite an easy material to cut providing you use a fine toothed saw. I trimmed up the holes and slots with a Stanley knife. To get the slot started at the top of the elevator it is easiest to drill a hole - or several holes. 8 To make the elevator cage I cut and shaped up a circular block of wood. This must fit inside the elevator shaft tube. Glasspaperthe block until it slides easily up and down inside the tube. This takes a little time and patience to get a good sliding fit. 9 Cut two slots in the sides of the cage and shape up a piece of wire. Both ends of the wire need a small hook bent in them. A length of cord is then tied on to both hooks. Now check that the cage still slides easily in the shaft tube. 10 To get the cage to travel smoothly up and down in the shaft tube particular care is needed when making the roof assembly. 11 The elevator roof assembly has a small hole drilled in the side to take a small plastic tube. The tube by projecting into the centre of the elevator shaft ensures that the cord pulling up the cage is kept in the centre of the shaft. 12 Now cut out the circle in the upper level platform to take the elevator shaft Glue and screw the upper level platform in position. 13 Cut and shape the elevator base block, fit it on to the tube and glue the base block on to the base board. Check with a set square that the elevator shaft is at 90° to the base. 14 Now cut and make the swinging platform arm. It fits over the top of the upper level support structure by cutting a halving joint. A coach bolt passes through the arm and superstructure and allows the platform to swing. 15 Shape up the crane jib and the handle and fit on to the end of the swinging platform arm. 16 Now glue and screw the platforms on to the swing platform and intermediate platform. 17 The two fuel storage tanks can be made from wood, or large diameter plastic pipe. The fuel supply pipes are made from ‘coax’ cable. 18 The refuelling stations are made from offcuts. A small hook holds the end of the pipe ready to refuel the space ships. The stations are glued and screwed on to the platforms. Base stiffeners 610 X 38 X 22mm (24 x VA x ^ein) 508X38 X22mm (lOxV/ixVm) Timber Timber 107
Central colunnn 1off 521 X 73 X 22mm (2014 x Tk x ^sin) Timber Upper level support 1off 483 X 64 X 22mm (19 x 214 x ysin) Timber Intermediate level support 1off 432 X 64 X 22mm (17 x 214 x ysin) Timber Swinging platform arm 1off 413 X 47 X 22mm (I6V4 x 1% x ysin) Timber Upper level platform 1off 483 x420 x6mm (19 x1614xy4in) Plywood Intermediate platform 1off 305 X 203 X 6mm (12 x 8 x y4in)' Plywood Swinging platform 1off 330 X 305 X 6mm (13 x 12 x yiin) Plywood Crane jib 1off 140 X 41 X 22mm (514 x V/b x ysin) Timber 1off 41mm(iy8in) long x 6mm(yiin) diameter dowel Handle assembly 1off 51 X 22 X 16mm (2 x Ys x Vsin) Timber 1off 32 X 32 X 6mm (lyt x lyt x y4in) Plywood 1off 95mm(3y4in) long x 6mm(ytin) diameter dowel 1 off 44mm (l^iin) long x 6mm (yiin) diameter dowel Refuelling station 2 off 102 X 64 X 6mm (4 x 214 x y4in) Plywood 2 off 76 X 60 X 22mm (3 x 2y8 x ysin) Timber Fuel storage tanks 1off 241 X108 X 22mm (914 x 4y4 x ysin) Timber 2 off 70mm(2y4in) longx 89mm(314in) diameter timber Shaft roof 1off 222 X140 X 6mm (8y4 x 5y2 x y4in) Plywood 1ofF 64 X 64 X 25mm (214 x 2''4 x lin) Timber Cage 1off 57mm(2y4in) longx 38mm(iy2in) diameter timber Base block 1ofif 70 X 38 X 22mm (2y4 xVA x ysin) Timber Ancillaries 1off 89mm(3y2in) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter coach bolt plain washer and nut 1 off 1220mm (48in) longx 6mm (y4in) diameter coaxial cable 1 off 641mm (25y4in) longx44mm (lytin) o/d plastic water pipe 1 off 1220 (48in) long length of fine thread 1off 38mm(114in) longx 6mm (yiin) diameter plastic tube lofif 203mm(8in) long length of2mm(yi6in) diameter steel wire UPPER LEVEL PLATFORM 108
368(14y2) 165(61/2) RADIUS 51(2) RADIUS POSITION OF /RE-FUELLING STATION POSITION OF RE-FUELLING STATION 38(11^^) 83(31/4) INTERMEDIATE LEVEL PLATFORM 6(1/4) THICK 102(4) DRILL AND CSK TWO FIXING HOLES SWINGING PLATFORM ARM \ 51(2) \radius /h - 152(6) 305(12) n— 6(1/4) THICK , -N W 6(1/4) DIAM HOLE TOP LEVEL SUPPORT STRUCTURE AI-1 V 00 UPPER LEVEL PLATFORM 20(%) I 57(21/4) (I I SWINGING PLATFORM 6(1/4) THICK 1 1 CO S’h- co o>00 2(1/16) WIDE X 3(1/8) DEEP SLOTS UP SIDE OFTHE BLOCK < > Q U LU 2(1/16) DIAM STEEL WIRE BENT TO FORM EYES AND WRAPPED AROUND BLOCK IN SLOTS CAGE MAY REQUIRE WEIGHTING ELEVATOR CAGE 25(1) 6(1/4) ♦ 34(21/2 1 / HOLE TO SUIT ELEVATOR SHAFT 9(Vb) 25(1) 0^ MAKE FROM APPROX 44(1%) 0/D PLASTIC PIPE DRILL 6(1/4) DIAM HOLE THROUGH ELEVATOR SHAFT ON ASSEMBLY. FIT WITH 6(1/4) 0/D TUBE X 38(11/2) LONG PROJECTING INTO SHAFT CENTRE LINE TO TAKE ELEVATOR CABLE. ELEVATOR SHAFT ELEVATOR SHAFT ROOF ASSEMBLY 110
413(16y4) DIAM TO SUIT ELEVATOR SHAFT \I— ^ 28(11/8) ® — -m ^ 70(2%) ^ 22(V8)J ELEVATOR BASE BLOCK POSITION AND SECURE ELEVATOR BASE BLOCK ON MAIN SPACE STATION BASE BOARD AFTER ASSEMBLY OF ELEVATOR SHAFT THROUGH UPPER LEVEL PLATFORM 1! 1 1 n1 J21(4%)^ \745° t 22(V8) 57(21/4) SWINGING PLATFORM ARM TWO HOLES 6(1/4) DIAM x 12(1/2) DEEP FOR FUEL SUPPLY LINES UP TO REFUELLING STATIONS SCREWED HOOK TO SUPPORT FREE END OF REFUELLING HOSE WHEN NOT IN USE ONE FOR REFUELLING HOSE, THE OTHER FOR SUPPLY LINE UP FROM FUEL TANK REFUELLING STATIONS MAKE TWO 32(11/4) 6(1/4) DIAM X 95(3%) 6(1/4) —r~32(11/4)- t -U LONG DOWEL 16(V8) 6(1/4) DIAM X 44(1 %) LONG DOWEL 6(1/4) 2(’/i6)diam hole to ATTACH LIFTING CABLE SPACER 6(1/4) BORE x 9(%) O/D x 32(11/4) LONG TO PREVENT ASSEMBLY SLIDING TO AND FRO THROUGH JIB CRANE HANDLE ASSEMBLY HANDLE GLUED AND PINNED IN POSITION ONCE SPINDLE IS ASSEMBLED THROUGH JIB 12(1/2) ■iu25(1) 4 _ 41(1®/a)nj r 2 HOLES 6(1/4) DIAM 22(^ i./ \ -J ul’^5(1%) 16(®/8) 20(%) CRANE JIB 11
It is great fun developing your own style of space ship. Except for the dowel rods all these ships were made from offcuts that came from the space station. All joints are glued, but where practical the addition of panel pins will strengthen the joint. The use of different diameter dowel rods is an easy way to add special features, eg rocket launchers or jet engines.
REAR FUSELAGE AND ENGINE POD ARMAMENT POD - Space Ship No 1 Space Ship No 1 SECURED CENTRALLY UNDER FUSELAGE AGAINST BOTTOM EDGE OF WING PYLON 121(43/4) 16(®/8) DIAM hole 20(3/4) WING AND PYLON ASSEMBLY Space Ship No 1 6(V4)
ANTENNA - 6(y4) DIAM x 121 (4%) LONG 16(s/8) DIAM HOLE THROUGH \ J_ 4 22(V8) CENTRE FUSELAGE SECTION - Space Ship No 2 ^^ REAR FUSELAGE AND ENGINE POD - Space Ship No 2 HOLE 16(5/8) DIAM X 25(1) DEEP \ 28(1 Ve) NOSE SECTION - Space Ship No 2 WING PYLON - Space Ship No 2 MAKE TWO 6(y4) THICK 114
ROCKET LAUNCHERS SECURED TO 9(3/8) DIAM TAIL ASSEMBLY Space Ship No 3 38(1 Va) 9(3/8) DIAM DOWEL 22(V8) WING PYLON - Space Ship No 3 FUSELAGE - Space Ship No 3 215(81/2)
116
At some stage nearly all children will want a doll's house. This playing with the ‘miniature world’ allows the wonderful imagination of the child to develop. Perhaps the most rewarding experience to the ‘house maker’ is to sit and listen quietly while the children explore the house, arrange the carpet, find the bathroom, and put some boxes in the attic. The interior of a doll’s house can be as simple or as complex as you wish. Perhaps it is in this toy more than any other that parents and grandparents can share in making different parts of the house. And if you have an uncle who is good at electrics, he can install miniature lights. 1 Mark in pencil the two end walls and the positions of the wood strips that hold the walls together. Fix them together with tape and cut out as a pair. Tidy up the slots with a piece of glasspaper wrapped around a piece of waste wood. 2 Now glue the wood strips into the slots. When the glue is dry check that the strips do not stand ‘proud’ of the walls. The strips on the first floor will project over the garage space and will hold the garage roof 3 Glue strips of wood inside the walls to carry the first floor and ceiling. 4 Cut the base board, position the house on it and mark its position in pencil. Remove the house and drill the necessary holes to screw the house to the base board. 5 Glue a strip oftimber in the centre of the ground floor, running from the back wall to the front. Cover the ground floor with a piece of plywood. 6 With the house fixed to the base cut and fit the garage wall and roof 7 Strips of wood are glued to both ground floor frame and first floor ceiling assembly to take the plastic door runner strip. The plastic runner is available from hardware and DIY shops and is used for sliding door units. 8 The front wall of the house slides on the plastic track and can be completely removed to allow children unhindered access. The plastic track on the front wall has to be modified, it being necessary to cut off the third 'web'. 9 Half the rear wall is hinged to allow access. The fixed section is glued and screwed into place after the window has been cut. 10 Cuttingthe windows out is perhaps the hardest part of building the house. Plywood is a very useful material but if it is not cut with a very fine toothed saw, huge jagged splinters will result. The method for cutting windows is as follows: i Mark out all windows in pencil. ii Drill two small holes in the corner of the window, just large enough to get the saw blade in. iii Using a keyhole saw with a fine blade, cut the window out iv Clean up the window hole with fine glasspaper. If you have an electric jigsaw the method is exactly the same. You will find that the use of a metal cutting blade in the jigsaw will give a very fine cut and prevent any splinters. 11 There are many patterns of window available and if you intend to fit plastic ones it is a good idea to get them first and check the sizes to be cut in the walls. 12 Now cut and fitthe first floor and ceiling. Before fitting cut the stair well hole and loft access hole. 13 Cut and glue into place the ground floor internal walls A and B. 14 The staircase is of the open tread pattern. Cut the staircase and then glue the stair treads on. 15 On the first floor cut and glue the internal walls C, D and E into position. 16 The little loft ladder is now made. This is done more easily if both sides of the ladder are taped together. In this way the holes drilled for the dowel rod rungs will align easily. Glasspaper the ends of each rung before glueing them into the ladder sides. 17 Glue strips of wood on the inside of the walls to take the roof. 18 Cut, glue and screw the rear roof in place. Note the overlaps on the end walls. 19 The front roof section is hinged. I could not find the right hinges for this job so I bought some long flap (blade) hinges and with a pair of pliers bent one flap on the ridge line and then screwed it into the fixed rear section of the roof. Bending mild steel hinges is quite easy, but it is necessary to get it right first time otherwise the hinge flap will just break off if you have to re-bend it. 20 Shape up the chimney, then glue and screw it in place.
makes some very attractive carpets. There is really no limit to the amount of details you can add. Cutting list Base board 1 off 632 X 432 X 9mm (24Vb x 17 x Tain) Plywood 1 off 280 X16 X 16mm (11 x Ta x Tain) Timber Garden walls Make from 22 x 16 x 675mm (% x Va x 26^/iin) Timber Ground floor assembly 1 off 413 X 280 X 5mm (16''A x 11 x Tain) Plywood 2 off 432 X 22 X 16mm (17 x Ta x Tain) Timber 3 off 236 X 22 X 16mm (9V4 x Ve x Vain) Timber 1 off 432 X 20 X 16mm (17 x Tt x Tain) Timber 1 off Plastic ‘door runner’ strip 432mm (17in) long End walls 2 off 457 X 280 X 9mm (18 x 11 x Tain) Plywood 4 off 235 X 22 X 16mm (9y4 x Ta x Tain) Timber 2 off 171 X 22 X 16mm (6T4 x Ta x Tain) Timber 2 off 165 X 22 x16mm (6T xTa xTain) Timber Garage wall 1 off 280x165 x9mm (11 x6T2xTain) Plywood Garage roof 1 off 280 x197 x5mm (11 x 7T4 x Tiain) Plywood Ground floor internal walls 1 off 280 X144 X 5mm (11 x 5''yia x Tain) Plywood 1 off 146 X144 X 5mm (5T4 x 5''yia x Tain) Plywood Stairs support 1 off 190 X 22 X 16mm (7''A x Ta x Tain) Timber treads Make from 178 x 32 x 5mm (7 x VA x yi6in) Plywood First floor assembly 1 off 413 X 280 X 5mm (16y4 x 11 x Tain) Plywood 2 off 619 X 22 X 16mm (24Ta x Ta x Tain) Timber 1 off 64 X16 X 6mm (2''A x Ye x y4in) Plywood First floor internal walls 2 off 280 X124 X 5mm (11 x 4Ta x Tain) Plywood 1 off 146 X124 X 5mm (5T4 x 4Ta x Tain) Plywood First floor ceiling assembly 1 off 413 x280 x5mm (16y4x11 xTain) Plywood 2 off 432 X 22 X 16mm (17 x Ta x Tain) Timber Loft ladder stringers 2 off 133 X 9 X 5mm (5y4 x Ta x Tain) Timber rungs Make from 222mm(8y4in) longx 6mm(V4in) diameter dowel Hinged roof panel 1 off 457 X 210 X 9mm (18 x 8y4 x Tain) Plywood 2 off 20 wide X32mm (Tt xVA'wi) long hinges Rear roof panel 1 off 457 X 228 X 9mm (18 x 9 x Tain) Plywood Ridge board 1 off 432 X 22 X 16mm (17 x Ta x Tain) Timber Front top runner assembly 1 off 432 X 20 X 16mm (17 x Ti x Tain) Timber 1 off Plastic ‘door runner’ strip 432mm (17in) long Chimney 1 off 330 X 47 X 22mm (13 x ITa x Tain) Timber Front wall 1 off 432 X 260 X 9mm (17 x 10y4 x Tain) Plywood 2 off Plastic ‘door runner’ strips 432mm (17in) long Rear wall (hinged) 1 off 302 X 267 X 9mm (IITa x 10T x Tain) Plywood 1 off 302 X 22 X 16mm (IITa x Ta x Tain) Timber 2 off 51mm (2in) Brass hinges Rear wall fixed 1 off 302 X165 X 9mm (IITa x 6y2 x Tain) Plywood 1 off 302 X 22 X 16mm (IITa x Ta x Tain) Timber 21 Hinge the rear wall section and fix it in position. A small hook is used to keep the wall closed. 22 A small strip of wood glued onto the front of the base simulates the garden wall. It must not fit against the house or garage wall otherwise the front wall will not be able to slide freely. The house illustrated is fitted with leaded light windows and miniature pattern wall papers. Brick and tile papers are used on the outside. The majority of furniture can be made, but for real detail I do like the miniature plastic bathroom fittings that are available. Fablon self-adhesive baize
Ancillaries Various papers for covering internal and external walls and 'tiled' paper for roofs Various fabrics for internal carpeting, curtains and front garden ‘lawn’_ Bathroom suite ‘Hobbies Ltd’ doors and windows; 2 off Doors 2 off Three bay windows_ 5 off Double bay windows 1 off Single window for roof skylight_ 1 off Single trellised window_ Chimney pot assembly (HINGED FRONT ROOF AND FRONT WALL NOT SHOWN. FRONT WALL GUIDES AND GARDEN WALL CUT AWAY FOR CLARITY) PARTLY ASSEMBLED VIEW
280(11) RECESS FOR ROOF RIDGE SUPPORT Note; 22(V8) dimension down rear slope END WALLS 22 X 16(Vs X Vs) FRAME FIXED TO BASE BOARD IN POSITION SHOWN AND THEN COVERED WITH A PIECE OF280X 413x5 (11 X IS’A X Vi6) PLYWOOD. 20 x16(3/4 X Vs) STRIP ATTACHED TO FRONT EDGE OF FRAME TO CARRY THE PLASTIC DOOR RUNNER STRIP 120
165(6y2) 632(24V8) 22{V8) 22(^8) WALL FIXED TO 16(5/8) x 16(5/8) STRIP ON BASE BOARD 280(11) h- O 280(11) 121 GARAGE WALL 9(3/8) THICK GARAGE ROOF 5(5/16) THICK 124(4^8)
PLASTIC DOOR RUNNER STRIP, TOP AND BOTTOM, WITH 3rd WEB CUTOFF / - 86(3%) . I . 51 (2) ,38(1 51 (2) 432(17) 130(5Vb) 00 o 168(65/8) 51(2) 9(3/8) SLIDING FRONT WALL 9(^/8) THICK REAR WALL - FIXED SECTION REAR WALL - HINGED SECTION
144(5’Vi6) \ _280(11) SHOWING FIRST FLOOR INTERNAL WALL POSITIONS AND STAIRWAY HOLE 9(3/8) o CO C\i 432(17) 413(16V4) FIRST FLOOR CEILING ASSEMBLY 229(9) 38(1 V2) i - 70(23/4) 25(1) LOFT ACCESS HOLE 5(3/i6) i ir 22(V8) 22(V8) 16(5/8) 20(3/4) MOUNTED SYMMETRICALLY ' ON EACH STAIRCASE RISE 16(5/8) 32(1 V4) STAIR TREADS MAKE EIGHT 5(3/i6) THICK
124(4%) ^ 144(5’Vi 6) 413(16V4) 22(V8) GROUND FLOOR PLAN 22(V8) 280(11) 22(V8) in o 146(5%) 16(V8) INTERNAL WALL ‘A’ 5(%6) THICK INTERNAL WALL‘B’ 5(3/16) THICK 280(11) INTERNAL WALL‘D’ 5(3/16) THICK 124 102(4)
28(1 Vs) in9(3/8) < Z) o UJ CO (0 LU X o 20(3/4) WIDE HINGES WITH 32(1’A) LONG BLADES, BENT TO SUIT ROOF LINE HINGED FRONT ROOF 210 X 457 X 9(8V4 X 18x3/8) 22 X 16 x432(V8X 3/8x17) RIDGE STRIP 5(3/16) 6(y4)DIAM RUNGS LOFT LADDER FIXED REAR ROOF 228x457x9(9x18x3/8) OVERLAPS END WALLS BY12(V2) 20 X 16 X 432(3/4 X 3/8 X 17) STRIP ATTACHED TO FRONT EDGE OF FIRST FLOOR CEILING ASSEMBLY TO CARRY THE PLASTIC DOOR RUNNER STRIP CHIMNEY GARAGE ROOF GARAGE WALL FRONT GARDEN WALLS VIEW ON HOUSE FROM GARAGE END 16(3/8) Oi 47(1 Vs) 22(Y8) CHIMNEY HINGED FRONT ROOF 125
Watching my boys play with soldiers I have discovered that an essential part of such a defensive building is lots of castellations, look-out towers, walkways, ladders and some movable structures inside. Another essential is a door with a closing bar to keep the ‘baddies’ out. The flag poles do represent a hazard for a young child and therefore these can be left off until he or she is older. The fort consists of a main enclosure with smaller enclosures on right and left hand sides. The whole structure is mounted on a plywood base. 1 Start by cutting to width and length the plywood for the main enclosure. 2 Mark out in pencil on the walls all the pieces that have to be cut out. 3 Use the following method for cutting out all castellations: i Fix the plywood in the vice as near the castellations to be cut out as is practical. ii Cut down both sides with a tenon saw. iii Usingacopingsaw with the blade turned at 90° to the top of the frame it is possible to cut along the bottom of the castellation. All the remaining castellations are cut in this way including those for the enclosures and watchtower. 4 Cut out the doorways and screw the hinges on to the main gates. The catch and locking bar are then fixed in position. 5 Before fixing any sidewalls together carefully glasspaper all the castellations. This is easily done if the glasspaper is wrapped around a piece of waste wood. 6 The four walls of the main enclosure are glued together at the corners. As there is very little glueing area, the addition of four corner blocks is essential. However these do not run the full height of the wall but stop below the walkways. 7 The left and right hand enclosures are now glued together. Once again small blocks are glued into the corners. 8 Cut and glue all the walkways into place. 9 Mark the position of the walls and corner blocks on the base board. From the underside screw the base on to the walls. Screws must be counter¬ sunk and should be positioned so that they go into the corner blocks. 10 Although there are several ladders it is best to make them all in one long length, and then cut off shorter lengths. 11 To make the ladders prepare two equal stringers. Fix these together at the ends with tape. Mark the centres of the rungs. Using a drill of the same diameter as the dowel rod, drill all the rung holes. 12 Now cut the rungs. These must all be the same length. Tidy up’ the ends of each dowel rod with glasspaper, putting a slight chamfer on the end of each one. 13 Now check that the dowel rods fit the stringers before glueing them in the holes. 14 The simplest way to glue the rungs in place is to put a little glue on the end of each rung. When this has been done push all the rungs into one side only. Now put a spot of glue on all the other rung ends. Position the rungs in the holes. This may take a little care. Now when all the ends are in the holes place the ladder in a vice and squeeze both sides together, working carefully from each end. 15 Now cut suitable lengths of ladder for the watchtower, main enclosure etc. 16 The two look-out boxes are constructed from plywood and all corners are glued together. The roof is held by the four dowel rods which are glued in to the corners. The look-out boxes are fixed on to the main enclosure by screws passing through the castellations from the inside. 17 The watchtower is movable and can therefore be used in any position within the main enclosure. Cut the base plate and pillars. The pillars are screwed on to the base plate. 18 The same method is used to cut the castellations on the watchtower walls as for the main enclosure walls. 19 The roof is made up of four sloping panels. The edges of the four panels should be chamfered to get a nice tight fit. A medium grit glasspaper is best for this job. 20 Holdingthefour sloping panels together while the glue sets can be difficult, therefore make up a small jig to hold the pieces. On a piece of scrap plywood mark in pencil the area the roof base will cover (see drawing). At 127
each corner and half way along the sides fix a small nail. Now when glue is applied to all corners, the nails will hold the panels upright as the glue sets. 21 Four dowel rods hold the roof plat¬ form in place above the walls. The dowel rods are glued in to the corners of the watchtower and the roof is fixed on. 22 The ladder is glued to the side. 23 The main building in the fort is also movable or can be left out. 24 Mark out the building platform and the centres of all the posts. Drill the post holes. 25 The posts project through the base to lift the building off the ground. In order that each post goes through the base exactly the right length, position a piece of waste wood of the correct thickness under the platform. Put a little glue on each post and with a light hammer tap the post in place. 26 All the walls and roof of the main building are glued together. It is a good practice to use panel pins as well as glue, but remember to use a panel pin punch to drive the head below the surface. This small hole should be filled before painting or varnishing. 27 The base of the main flag pole is made from an offcut and the pole from a dowel rod. Do put a brightly coloured flag on this otherwise it could be dangerous. Cutting list Base board 1 off 816 X 388 X 5mm (32 x 15y4 x y6in) Plywood Main enclosure front and rear walls 2 off 445 X140 X 9mm (17^/4 x 5''/i x yein) Plywood end walls 2 off 370 X140 X 9mm (W/i x 5‘'/i x Vain) Plywood Right hand enclosure front and rear walls2 off 160 X 76 X 9mm (6y4 x 3 x Tsin) Plywood sidewall 1 off 166 X 76 X 9mm (614 x 3 x ysin) Plywood Left hand enclosure front and rear walls2 off 211 X 76 X 9mm (8y4 x 3 x Vain) Plywood sidewall 1 off 140 X 76 X 9mm (5''/4 x 3 x Vain) Plywood Look-out boxes roof 2 off 127 X114 X 5mm (5 x 4''/i x ^iain) Plywood front and rear walls 4 off 102 X 51 X 9mm (4 x 2 x Tain) Plywood sides 4 off 84 X 51 X 9mm (3y4 x 2 x Vain) Plywood floor 2 off 83 X 83 X 5mm (3y4 x 3y4 x Tiain) Plywood corner posts 8 off 76 long X 6mm (3 x y4in) diameter dowel flag staff 2 off 216 long X 6mm (8^/4xy4in) diameter dowel Corner blocks Make from 25 x 25 x 610mm (1 x 1 x 24in) Timber Wall walkways Make from 28 x 9 x 2640mm (IVs x Vs x 104in Timber Ladders stringers Make from 16 x 16 x 1450mm (y8xV4x57in Timber rungs Make from 864 long x 6mm (34 x lAin) diameter dowel Door catch 1 off 51 long X 6mm (2 x y4in) diameter dowel 1 off 41 X16 X 9mm (T/a x Vs x ^ain) Plywood Ancillaries 2 off 25mm (lin) long brass hinges and screws Watch tower Roof flat 1 off 102 X102 X 5mm (4 x 4 x yiain) Plywood sloping 4 off 102 X 76 X 5mm (4 x 3 x ^ain) Plywood Floor 1 off 83 X 83 X 5mm (3y4 x 3y4 x yiain) Plywood Walls 2 off 102 X 64 X 9mm (4 x 2^/4 x Vain) Plywood 2 off ^^83 X 64 X 9mm (3y4 x I'A x Tain) Plywood Corner posts 4 off 84mm (3y4in) long x 6mm (y4in) diameter dowel Support pillars 2 off 127 X 44 X 20mm (5 x l^t x ^lin) Timber Base plate 1 off 121 X 95 X 5mm (4y4 x 3y4 x ^ain) Plywood Ladder stringers Make from 16 x 6 x 275mm (Vs x V4 x 10y4in) Timber rungs Make from 190mm (7^/iin) long x 6mm (y4in) diameter dowel Outbuilding Base 1 off 375 X114 X 9mm (14y4 x VA x yain) Plywood Wall, front and rear 2 off 305 X 76 X 9mm (12 x 3 x yain) Plywood 2 off 76 X 57 X 9mm (3 x 2y4 x yain) Plywood Fencing Make from 1220 long x 6mm (48 x V4in) diameter dowel
Flag pole Base 1 off 76 X 44mm (3 xl^in) Pole 1 off 368mm(14''/^in) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter dowel FRONT AND REAR WALLS OF MAIN ENCLOSURE MAKE TWO 9(3/8) THICK 129
41(1%) DOMED HEAD BRASS WOODSCREW AS PIVOT PIN 9(%) DOOR ASSEMBLY AS VIEWED FROM INSIDE i 10^ 1 — n 38(11/2) Co) '9) 00 CVJ < 9(%) 16(%) CATCH COUNTERSINK FIXING HOLES 4 3(V8) piAM HOLE 3- 6(V.) DIAM 51(2) LOCKING BAR 11 EQUAL 12.75(V2) 20(3/4) PITCHES n 1 1 1 1 CO § f? 160(61/4) ^ RIGHT HAND ENCLOSURE FRONT AND REAR WALLS 9(%) THICK MAKE TWO ^ 13 EQUAL 12.75(y2) PITCHES 1ijTji_ri_rLrLr CO 166(61/2) RIGHT HAND ENCLOSURE SIDEWALL 9(%) THICK 15 EQUAL 12.75(V2) PITCHES m_jiJTjn_JT_rLn 211(81/4) LEFT HAND ENCLOSURE FRONT AND REAR WALLS 9(%) THICK MAKE TWO 11 EQUAL 12.75(1/2) 12(1/2) I PITCHES IJ-LrLTLTLT tsCD N. 140(51/2) ^ LEFT HAND ENCLOSURE SIDE WALL 9(%) THICK WALL WALKWAYS 28(1 Vs) WIDE X 9(%) THICK PLYWOOD WITH MITRED ENDS RESTING ON THE CORNER BLOCKS OVERALL LENGTHS - 2 OFF AT 425(16%) 2 OFF AT 368(141/2) 2 0FFAT149(5V8)) 1 OFF AT 165(61/2) 2 0FFAT200(7V8)) 1 OFF AT 140(51/2) 130
LOOK OUT BOX ii V 1 II FOUR CORNER BLOCKS ill h [L_L| 1 25 X 25 X 92(1 x 1 x S^/a) _y 1 LEFT HAND | MAIN ENCLOSURE || 1 ENCLOSURE l| 1 RIGHT HANdI rj_ 1 ENCLOSURE! J-'-Ufl-EIGHT CORNER BLOCKS-— >1 1 1 25x25x25(1 x1 x1) tpj- 1'- [l"--Lp LO 00 00 CO CO 816(32) BASE BOARD 5(3/16) THICK LADDER 2 EQUAL 20(3/4) PITCHES I 16(5/8) RUNGS 6(1/4) DIAM STRINGERS 6(1/4) THICK 28(11/8) SIDE ENCLOSURE LADDERS MAKE SIX BOTTOM EDGE CHAMFERED TO SUIT INSTALLATION ANGLE i HUNoo- 6(1/4) DIAM -e- In 0 STRINGERS h- CVJ 0 CsJ —1 C/J LU X 0 6(1/4) THICK—♦ < z> 0 1- 0 CHAMFER TO SUIT 0 0. INSTALLATION LU 0 ANGLE r 1 1 16(5/8) ^ 1 28(11/8) MAIN ENCLOSURE LADDERS MAKE THREE LOOK OUT BOXES WALLS - 9(3/8) PLYWOOD MAKE TWO FLAG STAFF -1 EACH BOX 6(1/4) DIAM BY 216(81/2) LONG
SUPPORT PILLARS VIEW OF ASSEMBLED WATCH TOWER SLOPING ROOF PANELS MAKE FOUR 5(3/16) THICK BASE PLATE 5(3/16) THICK , 102(4) . 78(3) ^ 1 -T- FOUR HOLES 5? 6(1/4) DIAM •4. 4 CORNER POSTS 6(1/4) DIAM X 83(31/4) LONG GLUED INTO CORNERS AND PROJECT THROUGH ROOF AND REST ON THE FLOOR WATCH TOWER ASSEMBLY WALLS 9(3/8) THICK FLOOR AND ROOF 5(3/i6) 20(3/.) 6(1/4) DIAM HOLE 6(1/4) DIAM POLE 368(141/2) 1 12(1/2) 76(3) 5 FLAG POLE 132 95(33/4)
5 9(3/8) 6(1/4) DIAM RAIL AND POSTS / 25(1 t 11 ■ ■ ■ 1 ■ ■ 1 l,| ■■ ■■ -.y.... Q >—I -n—■ L T9(3/e) 9(3/8)- L T]-□-□-IT 4 EQUAL 38(1 y2) PITCHES HI-□-□-□-[T 4 EQUAL 38(1’72) TI-□-U PITCHES 00 CO _i < z> O LU CM (O UJ I o o o o # ^ -a ©■ ^ 14 HOLES 6(y4)DIAM POSITION OF BUILDING ^35^ 0^ 1'I ^ A— 375(143/4) BUILDING PLATFORM 9(3/0) thick -9(3/8) ROOF 83 X 343 X 9(3y4 x 13y2 x 3/0) FRONT EDGE CHAMFERED TO GIVE VERTICAL FACE. 12(1/2) 305(12) CHAMFER TO SUIT ANGLE OF ROOF CO CO 25(1) 89(31/2) 25(1) 89(31/2) 140(51/2) 38(11/2) .25(1) BUILDING FRONT WALL 9(3/8) THICK REAR WALL 60 x 305 x 9(23/8 x 12 x 3/0) CHAMFER TOP EDGE TO SUIT ROOF BUILDING END WALLS MAKE TWO 9(3/8) THICK 133
134
The history of transport is a fascinating subject, as it clearly demonstrates man’s genius when faced with either getting himself around the world or taking goods from one part of the globe to another. This 1902 Scania truck is the first one ever produced by the company. The engine rating was 10-12 horse¬ power and the rear wheels were chain driven. It was capable of hauling 1.5 tons. These early vehicle makers were intent on removing the limitations of the horse-drawn vehicle. It may seem incongruous to us now but it was a natural progression to use the existing four-wheel farm cart technology and put an engine in it. This is clearly demonstrated on this first Scania, particularly when one examines the brakes and springs. However, the whole concept of design and high technology that now surrounds the truck industry can be gauged by looking at the magnificent 1980 range of vehicles. It was the contrast between old and new that inspired me to tackle the task of building this beautiful old truck. I generally try to avoid speci¬ fying woods to build models in but do try to build this one in oak, it really is worth the effort and looks rather good when finished. 1 The first job is to cut out the lorry bed. Cut an elongated hole in the front end to take the brake handle. The handle is held in position by a steel pin that is inserted through the side of the bed, through the handle, and fixed onto the other side of lorry bed! 2 I imitated the springs in oak. These are cut out with a coping saw, and the sawmarks removed with a sharp chisel. The main chassis members may now be glued and screwed in place. 3 Cut out the front and back axles and rebate the ends to allow a nice tight fit up against the springs. Drill holes to take the axles before you cut the ‘bow’ shape on the underside of the axle block. 4 Study the underside of chassis assembly drawing. 5 The front axle has a hole drilled through it to take the brake cord. The back brake is made from a short length of wood and dowel rod. A small spring is fitted to return the brake to the ‘off position. 6 The gear box and drive unit are shaped up from a block of oak. Drill a hole in the box to take a steel axle. The axle needs to be the same bore as the small wheel. A small chain is attached between the drive gear wheel and the back axle. A plastic or wooden disc fitted onto the axle behind the wheel gives the chain something to run around, and if a little tension is given to the chain it will turn around the drive gear wheel realistically when the truck is moved. 7 Cut to shape the under chassis block which fits between the front bulkhead and front axle. 8 Thefrontbulkhead wasabitofa mystery. Was there a radiator fitted into the front? Or was it just a protection for the driver? In spite of all the help I received from Scania, no one was able to find a picture of the front. The only picture that exists is the side view. I have put a filler cap on the top but left the front blank. It is up to you to add or leave off a radiator grill. The bulkhead is shaped to fit between the main chassis members. The front of the chassis is finished by glueing in the main chassis front cross member. A hole is drilled in the bulkhead to take the starting handle. 9 Make the steering column and steering wheel. The column is glued onto the back of the bulkhead. The steering wheel is left to turn freely in the column. 10 I bought a pair of brass carriage lamps which I attached to the side of the bulkhead. 11 The driver’s seat is the next piece to make. Small vent lines should be carved in the side. The handle or driver’s support rail I bent from a piece of mild steel rod. 12 The truck back, side and front walls on the original were simply planks held together by uprights. To add realism I grooved the side pieces and panel pinned small uprights across the grooves. Small hooks and chains keep the sides securely fastened. 13 Along the plank sides of the walls the company had painted in black letters SCANIA. The work force were obviously as proud of their 1902 vehicle as they are of their 1982 models. 14 I suggest finishing the lorry in a good quality matt varnish. 135
Cutting list Lorry bed 1 off 470 x156 x14mm (18^/2 x 61/3 x yi6in) Timber Main chassis member 2 off 505 X 20 X 12mm (19y8 x 2/4 x y2in) Timber Main chassis front cross member 1 off 111 X 20 X 9mm (4^/8 x x y8in) Timber Front bulkhead 1 off 165 X 111 X 32mm (61/2 x 4^/8 x iy4in) Timber Radiator cap 1 off 25mm (lin) long x 12mm (y2in) diameter dowel Steering column 1 off 89 X 22 X 12mm (3y2 x Ts x y2in) Timber Steering wheel 1 off 28mm (T/sin) diameter x 12mm (y2in) thick Timber 1 off 89mm (3y2in) long x 6mm (y4in) diameter dowel Starting handle Make from 102mm (4in) long x 6mm (y4in) diameter dowel 1 off 44 X12 X 12mm (VA x y2 x y2in) Timber Under chassis block 1 off 65 X 32 X 22mm (2yi6 xVAx ysin) Timber Front spring assemby 2 off 152 X 32 X 12mm (6 X iy4 X y2in) Timber Front axle block 1 off 111 X 73 X 35mm (4y8 x 2Va x ITsin) Timber Rear spring assembly 2 off 191 X 32 X 12mm (7y2 xiyt x y2in) Timber Rear axle block 1 off 111 X 57 X 35mm (4y8 x 2y4 x iy8in) Timber Gear box/drive unit 1 off 102x70x51mm (4x2y4x2in) Timber 1 off 102mm (4in) long x 9mm (y8in) diameter dowel Brake lever 1 off 51 X 20 X 12mm (2 x x y2in) Timber 1 off 57mm (2y4in) longx 6mm (y4in) diameter dowel Brake handle 1 off 108 X12 X 9mm (4y4 X14 X y8in) Timber Seat assembly Make from 184 x 48 x 11mm (71/4 xV/s x yisin) Timber Make from 171 x 44x11 mm (6y4 xlV-t x^isin) Timber 1 off 117 X 73 xlimm (4y8 x 2y8 x y^in) Timber Side wall 2 off 356 X 51 x12mm (14 X 2 X 14in) Timber Side wall straps Make from 216 x 16 x 3mm (8Vi x-Vs x Vein) Timber Front and rear walls 2 off 130 X 51 x12mm (5y8 X 2 X y2in) Timber Brake shoe 1 off 41 X 20 X 16mm (iy8 x Va x y8in) Timber Ancillaries Lorry bed 1 off 51 mm (2in) long x 5mm (Tuin) diameter steel brake lever pin Main chassis member 1 off 9mm (y8in) screwed eye Front bulkhead 2 off ‘Brass' coach lamps (Hobbies Limited) Front axle 1 off 178mm (7in) longx 6mm (y4in) diameter steel axle 2 off 76mm (3in) diameter ‘Cart’ wheels Rear axle 1 off 181mm (7y8in) longx 6mm (y4in) diameter steel axle 2 off 114mm (4y2in) diameter‘Cart’ wheels 4 off Spring dome caps to suit 6mm (y4in) diameter axles Gear box/drive unit 1 off 114mm (4y2in) longx 5mm (yi6in) diameter steel rod 1 off 9mm (y8in) o/d x 5mm (Tuin) i/d x 25mm (lin) long spacer 1 off Spring dome cap to suit 5mm (Tisin) diameter rod 1 off 330mm (13in) length of 8mm (y^in) pitch chain Driving gear wheel Make from 22mm (Tsin) diameter disc x 16mm (Vsin) thick plastic Rear axle drive spacer Make from 41mm (IVsin) diameter disc x 6mm (y4in) thick plastic Brake lever/handle 3 off 9mm (y8in) diameter screwed eyes 1 off 32mm (Tyin) long extension spring 1 off 460mm (18in) length of strong cord Seat assembly Make from 178mm (7in) long x 5mm (Tuin) diameter steel arm rest Sidewalls 4 off 25mm (Tin) long brass hinges 4 off 12mm (Vim) screwed hooks Front and rear walls 4 off 9mm (y8in) long wood screws with 114mm (4y2in) lengths of chain Guide for brake cable through front axle 1 off 9 mm (y8in) o/d x 6mm (y4in) i/d x 38mm (iy2in) plastic tube 136
121(43/4) CORD PASSES THROUGH FRONT AXLE AND IS SECURED TO THE BOTTOM LORRY BED BRAKE SPRING VIEW ON UNDERSIDE OF CHASSIS ASSEMBLY 38(1 V2) POSITION OF LORRY BED 9(3/8) SCREWED EYE 20(3/4) U II 3(V.) 505(1979) —I -^ 86(33/8) — --- ^ MAIN CHASSIS MEMBERS MAKE TWO 12(1/2) 7
FRONT SPRING ASSEMBLY MAKE TWO REAR SPRING ASSEMBLY MAKE TWO <r 35(1%) ^6(Va) DIAM 138
FRONT BULKHEAD BED SLOT 9(3/8) DIAM SCREWED EYE FOR RETURN SPRING 9(3/8) DIAM SCREWED EYE FOR BRAKE CABLE BRAKE HANDLE BRAKE LEVER 6(y4) 16(5/8) BRAKE SHOE GEAR BOX/DRIVE UNIT 51(2)
32(1'A) 2(Vi6) DRIVING GEAR WHEEL PLASTIC 3( Vs) 41(1V8)DIAM REAR AXLE DRIVE SPACER PLASTIC 22(V8) ■ = I = 65(2^/16) \ 6(1/4) DIAMx6(y4) DEEP UNDER CHASSIS BLOCK 20(3/4) MAIN CHASSIS FRONT CROSS MEMBER RADIATOR CAP 140
STEERING COLUMN STEERING WHEEL 67(25/8) 83(3y4) ^ 117(45/8) 1 ’8(11/8) 1 89(31/2) ^ SEAT ASSEMBLY MAKE FROM 11 (Vi6) THICK TIMBER 9(3/8) LONG SCREWS WITH 114(41/2) LENGTH OF CHAIN 3 X 3(1/8 X 1/8) GROOVE ON CENTRE LINE ■12(1/2) FRONT AND REAR WALLS 141
147
Building this wooden model was some¬ thing I thoroughly enjoyed. It is not a scale model, but does represent the Scania 142 E V8 and like its big brother will give many years of hard work. After sitting in the cab and driving the real vehicle, I came to appreciate just how well it was made and how sumptuously fitted out. When I built the model I tried to capture the comfort of the cab fittings by including such details as curtains and upholstered beds. 1 Start by cutting two longitudinal chassis members one of each hand. The strength is given to the chassis by the use of traditional woodworking joints. The stub tenons are cut with a tenon saw and the mortice holes with a chisel. The mortices do not go right through the chassis butane ‘stopped’. The front bumper and tail boards are all jointed with mortice and tenons. The fourth cross member of the chassis is morticed and tenoned giving the chassis rigidity. The first and second cross members are just glued onto the chassis. The third cross member is glued onto the bottom of the chassis and takes the end of the prop shaft. The rear bogie is held onto the chassis by two strips of wood which are in turn screwed onto the longitudinal chassis members. It is through the hole in these two pieces of timber that the bogie is held onto the chassis with a steel bar. With a ‘one fixing’ point it allows the bogie to pivot and adds realism to the vehicle when crossing rough ground. 2 The fifth wheel (the technical term for the mounting block for trailer hitch) is screwed onto the top of the chassis. This method of securing the hitch is important as it provides the anchorage point for the trailer. To assist coupling of the trailer two ramps are glued onto the back. The first and second cross members are now glued into place. 3 Air cylinders, batteries, fuel tank and spare wheel are all mounted on an underframe. The underframe is screwed onto the chassis after all the accessories have been made. The air cylinders are made from lengths of dowel rod. Round off the ends to give the appearance of a tank. These are glued into ready prepared holes drilled in a piece of beech which in turn is mounted onto the under¬ frame Fuel tank and battery boxes are shaped from beech blocks. 4 The chassis is not ready for this equipment until the two tapered lengths of wood are glued onto the side of the chassis. Looking at a Scania chassis you find that it tapers off behind the cab. To give the appearance of this curve in the chassis I added two additional side pieces which taper off to a fine edge just behind the catwalk (bridge piece). With these two pieces glued in position cut out the recess for the front axle. Now screw the underframe and accessories to the chassis. 5 The front axle assembly allows for steering. In spite of the small blocks having holes drilled in them, the axle is very strong due to the addition of a bearing plate. Cut out the main axle beam and drill the holes for king pins. The steering blocks are now cut and shaped. It is best to fit the steering blocks into the main beam before drilling the king pin holes. Now make the holes in the steering blocks by drilling through the existing holes in the main axle beam. This will ensure that the holes will line up. Holes must now be drilled to take the stub axles and the steering tie bar. Before fixing the king pins in with spring caps make sure that the steering blocks swivel freely in the front axle beam. The front axle bearing plate is now glued into place and the whole axle assembly fixed onto the chassis. 6 The engine block is not detailed but could very easily be made far more realistic. The only moving part is the cooling fan on the front. Once the engine, gearbox and prop shaft are fitted, the catwalk (chassis bridge piece) can be screwed down. This consists of two small strips of wood covered with a fine aluminium mesh. 7 The rear wheel bogie is held to the main chassis by a mild steel bar running right through the whole assembly. Shape up the two bogie frames drilling axle holes, main fixing pin hole and the holes to take the tie rods at the bottom. Drill the wheel axle holes fractionally oversize. The bogie frames are not attached to the chassis other than by the main fixing pin. The frames themselves are held together by the two tie bars situated directly beneath 143
the main fixing pin. Building the bogie by this method allows a certain flexibility in the frame, and allows only one of the wheels to be lifted leaving the other three on the road. When fitting wheels it is necessary to use a very short length of rubber tube as a spacer between the bogie side frame and the wheel. 8 To add realism to the bogie, dummy springs are fitted onto the top. Cut varying lengths of spring steel. Cut small spring straps from waste material and using a pair of pliers, bend them onto and around the leaves to keep them together. Holes are drilled in the end of the springs, the springs are held onto the bogie frames with screws. Apart from small details this completes the chassis. The cab 9 Start by cutting out two side panels, one of each hand (left and right). Cut the windows out and ‘round off the edges. The rounding of edges completely changes the shape of the cab from a box shape to a nice aerodynamic shape, but remember shaping except for the windows is left until last The back of the cab side is rebated to take the cab rear wall. The cab floor, made from plywood, is rebated into the sides. Now cut out the recess at the front to take the radiator panel. 10 Cut out and shape the cab rear wall. At the base, three holes are drilled to take the air lines. These are made from telephone cables which you can buy in different colours, or talk to a friendly post office engineer - they sometimes have offcuts of cable in their vans! Glue the cab together. 11 Fitted beneath the cab floor on either side are two panel sections which serve to hold the mudguards and steps. Glue and screw these onto the cab side panels. 12 The mudguards I cutfrom a solid block of wood. You can use a bow saw or coping saw for this job. Holding the block of wood in the vice, cut out the outside curve first and before going on use a spokeshave to remove all the saw marks. You will need a spokeshave with a convex sole to work on this shape. When all smoothing is complete you can then cut the outside shape of the mudguard. Round off all the edges of the mudguards then glue and screw them onto the side panel sections. 13 The radiator has to be carefully detailed otherwise the truck will not look right Fix the radiator front firmly to the bench, and using a plough plane, groove out two trenches. The radiator itself is recessed below the two grooves. This has to be done with a large sharp chisel. Before ‘chiselling out’ the radiator, mark the edges very deeply with a Stanley knife. This will stop the fibres breaking out as you chisel down. A piece of aluminium mesh is cut and fitted into the radiator recess. Narrow strips of wood are now glued onto the outside of the radiator. The headlamps are also glued onto the front. The finished radiator is now glued onto the front of the cab. 14 Now work can begin on the inside of the cab. The seats are shaped from blocks of pine. The bunk beds are made from plywood and covered with felt The central console gear lever, steering wheel and dashboard are all shaped and fitted. I used felt throughout the cab interior. Small pieces of felt fitted into the corners of the windows act as curtains. Perspex has to be carefully cut and fitted for the windows. The roof is now fitted. I used cup washers and screws to hold the roof on. Make the visor for the front screen which is then screwed onto the roof. A little more time is needed to shape the aerofoil for the roof. It is fixed onto the roof by two screws that pass up through the roof from the inside. 15 Using two small brass hinges, attach the cab onto the chassis. To prevent damage after the hinges are in place, I fitted two hook eyes and a length of nylon cord. 16 The steps are covered in aluminium mesh. The wing mirrors and windscreen wiper arms are plastic covered curtain wire painted matt black. 17 Screw the air cleaner onto the cab back wall. 144
Cutting list Longitudinal chassis member 2 off 660 X 38 X 12mm (26 x V/i x l^in) Timber 2 off 305 X 38 X 12mm (12 xV/i x Viin) Timber 2 off 98 X 25 X 20mm (3y8 x1 xlin) Timber 2 off 124 X 22 X 12mm (4y8 x % x ''/iin) Timber First and second cross member 2 off 89 X 22 X 16mm (3''/6 x % x %in) Timber Third cross member 1off 89 X 25 X 16mm (314 x 1 x y8in) Timber Fourth cross member 1off 79 X 38 X 16mm (3y8x1''/4xy8in) Timber Tail board 2 off 81 X 38 X 16mm (3yi6 x V/2 x y8in) Timber Front bumper 1off 235 X 25 X 20mm (9y4 x 1 x ^tin) Timber 1off 194 X 25 X 12mm (VYs x 1 x 14in) Timber 1off 133 X16 X 3mm (5y4 x y8 x ysin) Timber Fifth wheel 1 off 127 X 89 X 22mm (5 x 3y2 x ysin) Timber 2 off 124 X 36 X 22mm (4y8 xV/n x ysin) Timber Chassis bridge piece 2 off 95 X 9 X 8mm (3y4 x Ve x y6in) Timber Underframe cross member 2 off 171 X 20 X 6mm (6y4 x Va x ytin) Timber Underframe tie member 1off 133 X 20 X 6mm (5y4 x Ya x yiin) Timber Air bottle carrier 1off 152 X 27 X 20mm (6 xT/u x ytin) Timber Air bottles Make from 178mm (7in) long x 22mm (Vsin) diameter dowel Battery pack 1off 89 X SI X 16mm (3Vi x 2 x ysin) Timber Fuel tank loff 57 X 57 X 38mm (274 x 2y4 x iy2in) Timber Rear wheel bogie loff 171 X 47 X 16mm (6% x V/s x ysin) Timber Front axle beam loff 178 X 51 X 20mm (7 x 2 x ytin) Timber Front axle steering blocks 2 off 64x38x16mm (2VixT/ixy8in) Timber Front axle bearing plate loff 178 X 22 X 12mm (7 x ys x Viin) Timber Steering tie bar loff 171 X12 X 12mm (6y4 x "'/i x ^/iin) Timber Engine block loff 171 X 67 X 41mm (6y4 x 25/8 x T/sin) Timber Fan 1off 51 X 51 X 3mm (2 x 2 x ysin) Plywood Gear box 1off 89 X 32 X 20mm (3''/i xVAx ytin) Timber 1off 28mm (T/sin) long x 9mm (Vsin) diameter dowel Prop shaft 1 off 270mm (lO^/sin) long x 9mm (Tsin) diameter dowel Bottom step 2 off 70 X 22 X 20mm (2^/4 x ys x ytin) Timber Side panel 2 off 205 X156 X 16mm (8yi6 x 6y8 x ^/ein) Timber 2 off 171 X 95 X 12mm (6y4 x 3yt x ^/iin) Timber Wing mirror Make from 91 x 20 x 9mm (3^A x H x Vein) Timber Cab rear wall loff 203 X 184 x16mm (8 x 774 x ^/sin) Timber loff 184 X12 X 6mm (7y4 x ''/i x y4in) Timber Cab roof loff 222 X168 X 16mm (8yt x 6^/8 x Tiin) Timber loff 60 X 60 X 6mm (2^/8 x 2^/8 x Viin) Timber Air intake loff 263 X 28 X 20mm (lOTs x T/s x ytin) Timber loff 41 X 28 X 20mm (T/s x V/s x ytin) Timber Visor loff 210 X 51 X 14mm (8y4 x 2 x y6in) Timber Aerofoil loff 210 X 76 X 47mm (8y4 x 3 x T/sin) Timber Mudguard 2 off 133 X 89 X 38mm (574 x 3y2 x T/zin) Timber Side panel decorative strips 2 off 187 X 22 X 3mm (7y8 x ys x ysin) Timber 2 off 187 X16 X 3mm (7^/8 x Ys x ysin) Timber Side panel upper step 2 off 57 X16 X 6mm (2y4 x Ys x y4in) Timber lower step 2 off 46 X 22 X 6mm (VYie x Vs x T^tin) Timber Front cab bulkhead loff 222 X113 X 16mm (8yt x 47)6 x Ym) Timber Front cab grill loff 206 X 24 X 3mm (8y8 x ''Y^b x ysin) Timber 10 strips. make from 1980 x 3 x 3mm (78 x ys x ysin) Timber 145
1 off 140 X 9 X 3mm (BVi x Va x Vein) Timber 2 off 28 X 21 X 3mm {V/a x Wie x Vein) Timber Wiper blade 2 off 60 X 6 X1''/2mm {IVa X V4 x yi6in) Fascia 1 off 191 X 35 X 22mm (IVi x 1% x Va\n) Timber Shelf 1 off 140 X 28 X 3mm (5V2 x IVs x Vein) Timber Steering column 1 off 51 X 22 X 20mm (2 X % X y4in) Timber Steering wheel 1 off 38mm (ll^in) diameter x 9mm (Vsin) thick Timber 1 off 25mm (lin) long x 6mm (V4in) diameter dowel Central console 1 off 89 X 47 X 28mm (3''/2 x V/a x 1 Vein) Timber Gear lever 1 off 44mm long x 6mm (y4in) diameter dowel Seats 2 off 76 X 57 X 64mm (3 x 2y4 x 2y2in) Timber 2 strips, make from 51 x 9 x 6mm (2 x Vs x V^n) Timber Bunks 2 off 187 X 57 X 3mm (73/8 x 2y4 x ysin) Plywood 2 off 187 X16 X 3mm (IVa x Va x yain) Plywood Cab floor 1 off 191 X171 X 3mm (7y2 x 6^/4 x ysin) Plywood Ancillaries Axles, front and rear 11 off 102mm (4in) diameter road wheels 2 off 76mm(3in) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter steel front axles 2 off 12mm (y2in) o/d x 6mm (y4in) i/d x 3mm (yain) thick spacers 4 off Spring dome caps to suit 6mm (y4in) diameter axles 2 off 264mm(103/8in) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter steel rear axles 4 off 12mm (y2in) o/d x 6mm (y4in) i/d x 6mm (y4in) thick spacers 4 off Spring dome caps to suit 6mm (y4in) diameter axles loff 133mm(5y4in) long x 9mm(3/8in) diameter steel bogie pivot pin 2 off Spring dome caps to suit 9mm (^/ain) diameter pins 2 off 133mm(5y4in) long x5mm(3/i6in) diameter steel bogie tie bars 4 off Spring dome caps to suit 5mm (^/lain) diameter bars Spare wheel loff 12mm (y2in) o/d x 3mm (^/ain) i/d x 6mm (y4in) thick spacer Front axle beam 2 off 57mm(2y4in) longx5mm(3/i6in) diameter steel pivot pins 4 off Spring dome caps to suit 5mm (l/iain) diameter pins 2 off 35mm(13/8in) long x 3mm(y8in) diameter bolts, washers and nuts Spring Make from 3000 x 16mm x iy2mm (118 x Va x Visin) spring steel Fan 1 off 6mm (y4in) o/d x 3mm (yain) i/d x 5mm (^/uin) thick spacer 4 off Screwed eyes for tilting cab retaining cord 1 off 450mm (18in) length of strong cab retaining cord 2 off Swing hooks, screwed eyes, washers amd screws 2 off 25mm (lin) brass hinges - cab tilt 1 off 64 X 64mm (2y2 x 2W\n) wire mesh for bridge piece 1 off 51mm(2in) longx 5mm(3/i6in) diameter steel for towing pin 1 off 230 X 76mm (9 x 3in) wire mesh for steps and radiator 3 off 89mm (3y2in) long coiled telephone cables Mirror arms Make from 305 x 3mm (12 x Tsin) diameter plastic covered curtain wire Windows Make from 305 x 254 x iy2mm (12 x 10 x ysin) thick clear plastic Wiper arms Make from 127mm(5in) longx 5mm(3/i6in) diameter steel wire Gear lever 9mm (^/ain) o/d x 6mm (y4in) i/d x16mm (Vain) long grip 305 X 305mm (12 x 12in) felt 146
LONGITUDINAL CHASSIS MEMBER MAKE ONE OF EACH HAND MAIN CHASSIS ASSEMBLY 147
20(%) 235(9V4) , 12(1/2) RADIUS I I . L -J . I 1L-J \ TOWING PIN 5(3/16) DIAM STEEL O) 5(3/16) DIAM in TWO BLIND MORTICES 9(3/8) rL C\J . , 60(23/a), 1 64(2’/2) ^ 60(23/8) ir c n —1C'J I_ _1 1 L o [CVJ EXTENSION TO REAR FACE OF BUMPER FRONT BUMPER 6(V4) 25(1) BRASS HINGES FOR TILTING CAB FORWARD y 25(1) 16(3/8) RAD _ 64(2 II LJ 0 2. 1 CO BUILD UP ON TOP FACE OF BUMPER i 22(V8) Qg 16(5/8) 3(V8) DIAM COUNTERSUNK BOTTOM STEP MAKE ONE OF EACH HAND FIXED BELOW EXTREME ENDS OF FRONT BUMPER 89(372) I / 3(V8) DIAM CSKINIst ro) FIRST AND SECOND CROSS MEMBERS MAKE ONE OF EACH • 76(3) ^ * -CD O) 64(21/2) CM 1 sqS3=r|s9(3/8) DIAM X 9(3/8) DEEP HOLE INCLINED SLIGHTLY TO TAKE PROP SHAFT THIRD CROSS MEMBER CD. 111 1 r -» t 64(: ^ = FOURTH CROSS MEMBER CO. L -----^ J i =1 t t 8(5/16) icr41(15/8) rli 21 (’3/16) TAIL BOARD MAKE ONE OF EACH HAND 148
22(V8) r- 20(3/,; ^ r~ FIFTH WHEEL RAMP 44(13/4) ASSEMBLY OF UNDERFRAME ALSO REQUIRED: ONE 102(4) WHEEL ONE 12(y2)0/Dx3(V8) I/D x 6(1/4) THICK SPACER ONE WOODSCREW AND CUP WASHER 133(51/4) 9(3/8) 2 HOLES 3(1/8) DIAM CENTRE FOR SPARE WHEEL FIXING J L J □20(3/4) 6(1/4) THICK 20(3/4) CO DRIVER’S SIDE UNDERFRAME TIE MEMBER 9(3/8) 171(63/4) 32(11/4) 76(3) \ 3 HOLES 3(1/8) DIAM E 5(3/16) RADIUS UNDERFRAME CROSS MEMBER MAKE TWO 6(1/4) THICK 4 HOLES 24(15/16) DIAM x 12(1/2) DEEP O '•C\J L, r Frin r- -1 r-]-i r1 II 11 114(4V2) 7—► CNJ 19(3/8) 89(31/2) 22(V8) DIAM U-J J CM I AIR BOTTLE ^5 LO MAKE FOUR ^ 57(21/4) -6(1/4) RADIUS / FIXING CENTRES AIR BOTTLE CARRIER BATTERY PACK FUEL TANK 16(5/8) THICK 38(11/2) THICK 149
FRONT AXLE BEAM 6(1/4) X 45° CHAMFER nr 16(5/8) 6(1/4) DIAM. 5(3/16) DIAM CNJ S ir FRONT AXLE beam STUB AXLE STEERING BLOCK SECTION A-A TIE BAR BEARING PLATE FRONT AXLE ASSEMBLY 3(1/8) DIAM HOLE, COUNTERBORE TOP SURFACE 5(3/i6) DEEP TO TAKE HEAD OF 3(1/8) DIAM BOLT STEERING BLOCKS MAKE TWO ALSO REQUIRED: TWO 6(1/4) DIAM X 76(3) LONG STEEL STUB AXLES TWO 12(1/2) 0/D X 6(1/4) I/D X 3(1/8) THICK SPACERS FOUR SPRING DOME CAPS TO SUIT 6(1/4) DIAM AXLES TWO 102(4) WHEELS 2 HOLES 5(3/16) DIAM 1 1 VN U ■f ^ )/ f r 38(11/2) ,6(1/4) Til 20(3/4) 178(7) T FRONT AXLE BEAM ALSO REQUIRED: TWO 5(3/16) DIAM X 57(21/4) STEEL PIVOT PINS FOUR SPRING DOME CAPS TO SUIT 5(3/i6) DIAM PINS 171(63/4) -^- 152(6) 2 HOLES 3(1/8) DIAM STEERING TIE BAR ALSO REQUIRED: TWO 3(1/8) DIAM BOLTS x 35(13/8) LONG, WASHERS AND LOCKNUTS 12(1/2) FRONT AXLE BEARING PLATE ENGINE BLOCK 3(1/8) DIAM FAN 3(1/8) THICK PLYWOOD ALSO REQUIRED: 6(1/4) 0/D X 3(1/8) I/D X 5(3/16) LONG SPACER AND WOOD SCREW 150
32(1 V4) 3(V8)x45° Hampers 89(31/2) 3(1/8) X 45° CHAMFERS 9(3/8) DIAM X 12(1/2) DEEP 9(3/8) DIAM DOWEL x 28(11/8) LONG GEAR BOX 9(3/8) DIAM X 12(1/2) DEEP INCLINED SLIGHTLY TO TAKE PROP SHAFT o); 95(33/4) 8(5/16) 64(21/2) = I »— 76(3) \ 64 X 64(21/2 X 21/2) WIRE MESH BRIDGING STRIP CHASSIS BRIDGE PIECE 20(3/4) □ Q- 00 Q ISti - 5 w w igfe <y> ] REAR WHEEL BOGIE MAKE TWO DUMMY SPRING SPRING STRAP MAKE TWO ASSEMBLIES MAKE FOUR 9 LEAVES 1.5(1/16) THICK SPRING STEEL 1.5(i/i6) THICK SPRING STEEL REDUCING IN LENGTH BY 9(3/8) 151
205{8Vi6) COVER WINDOWS WITH 1.5(Vi6) THICK CLEAR PLASTIC POSITION OF DECORATIVE STRIPS AND STEPS MAKE TWO OF EACH DECORATIVE STRIPS 3{V8) THICK, FORWARD EDGE ROUNDED TO SUIT CONTOUR OF CAB WHEN CAB IS FULLY ASSEMBLED
MUDGUARD MAKE TWO FRONT CAB BULKHEAD 206(8V8) 3(V8) 8 STRIPS 3 X 3 X 206 (V8 X V8 X 8V8) EQUISPACED 2 STRIPS 3x3x 140 (V8 X V8 X SVa) m X_ -H- ♦ _j 1 ^ 28(1 V8) 140(5y2) ^---^^ t- 3(V8) BUILD UP OF FRONT GRILL ALL ENDS ROUNDED TO THE 20(%) RADIUS POSITIONING OF GRILL DECORS 153
12(1/2) 60(23/8) 6(1/^ -12(1/2) T~ L 38(1 V2) 47(1 Vs) 6(1/4) 1 3(1/8) 1.5(1/16) rr D 3(1/8) DIAM WINDSCREEN WIPER ASSEMBLY MAKE TWO 28(11/8) CAB ROOF AEROFOIL 2 HOLES 3(1/8) DIAM nii^ (0 ^ 25(1 ^ 0> T ■"i ■"i L fi I 12(1/2) I JJ [^(V.) ^ 30(13/16) AIR INTAKE ^^^ 152(6) “ I I \ I I -V * , ill — ■ii —1 I—^ i*—j VISOR WING MIRROR MAKE TWO SUPPORT ARM FORMED FROM 3(1/8) DIAM PLASTIC COVERED CURTAIN WIRE 155
156
Building the chassis is rather like making a ladder. It is built of two main chassis members with cross members fixed at intervals along its length. Onto this framework is fixed a sheet of plywood which has edging strips. A head and tail board complete the trailer. 1 Cut the two main chassis members and mark in pencil the position of the cross members. 2 Cramp all the cross members together and mark out the pieces to be cut out. It is important to mark them all together otherwise great difficult/ will be experienced when trying to fit them onto the chassis members. 3 After cutting out the cross members glue them all onto the main chassis. 4 Mark out a pair of axle supports. It is best to fix them together while drilling the axle holes. Axle holes are best drilled a fraction larger than the axle itself. Now cut and fit the rear axle support tie member. This whole unit is now fitted onto the main chassis members. Pilot holes are drilled through the chassis members for four hefty screws to pass through and hold the completed rear axle bogie unit. 5 The modern trailer unit has a large rear bumper unit fitted low down (to stop cars that crash into the back getting caught under the trailer). This bumper is fitted onto the rear chassis cross member. 6 A prominentfeature of any trailer unit is the massive mudflaps. Cut two from black plastic sheet and attach them to the mudflap support bar. 7 The jockey wheel assembly is shaped up from a piece of beech. Drill a hole through the bottom to take the axle. The unit is held to the trailer by a hinge. It is important that when the jockey wheel is fitted it is at an angle to the bed. Otherwise, when the trailer is loaded without the truck attached, the jockey wheel will tend to fold underneath. A plastic ball catch is fitted to hold the unit in place when the trailer is on the move. 8 The hitch pin assembly is glued and screwed at the front between the main chassis cross members. 9 The bed of the trailer is made from plywood. Birch ply is ideal for this as it has a creamy colour. To add realism it is important to draw black lines along the length of the bed to simulate the planking. Edging strips are then screwed onto the sides of the trailer unit. The use of chrome plated cup washers under the screw heads adds a finishing touch. 10 Paint or varnish the trailer unit before fitting the wheels. 11 In order that the Hyster Fork Lift truck can load and off-load the wooden blocks it is necessary to make wooden pallets. These consist of plywood bases onto which two strips of wood are glued and screwed. The strips fitted to the plywood base allow the forks of the Hyster to get underneath the load. 12 When making wooden blocks it is best to use beech; however, other woods will do. A variety of shapes are necessary to allow young children scope to build towers, bridges etc. You will find that a few lengths of plywood offcuts will add greatly to the buildings that can be made. Children love wooden blocks; they give great scope for their imagination. 157
Main chassis members 2 off 1086 X 38 X 22mm (42y4 x 1^2 x ^sin) Timber Trailer bed 1 off 1086 X 241 X 3mm (42y4 x 9y2 x ysin) Plywood Edging strip 2 off 1086 X 25 X 9mm (42y4 x 1 x ysin) Timber Head board 1 off 260 X 95 X 20mm (10y4 x 3yt x ytin) Timber Tail board 1 off 260 X 86 X 20mm (10y4 x 3y8 x Hin) Timber Chassis cross members 5 off 241 X 64 X 20mm (9y2 x 2y2 x yiin) Timber 2 off 241 X 54 X 20mm (9y2 x 2y8 x ytin) Timber Hitch pin assembly 1 off 76 X 51 X 20mm (3 x 2 x ytin) Timber 1 off 76mm(3in) longx12mm(y2in) diameter dowel Jockey wheel leg 1 off 152 X 51 X 20mm (6 x 2 x y4in) Timber Rear axle support 2 off 286 X 86 X 22mm (11 y4 x 3y8 x ysin) Timber Rear axle support tie member 1 off 165 X 51 X 20mm (6y2 x 2 x y4in) Timber Rear mud flap support bar 1 off 241 X 32 X 16mm (9y2 xVAx Vsin) Timber Rear bumper bar assembly 1 off 241 X16 X 16mm (9y2 x Vs x Vsin) Timber 2 off 86 X 35 X 16mm (3y8 x V/b x Vsin) Timber Ancillaries 8 off 102 mm (4in) diameter road wheels 2 off 254mm(10in) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter steel axles 4 off 12mm(y2in) o/d x 6mm(y4in) i/d x 6mm(y4in) thick spacers 4 off Spring dome caps to suit 6mm (y4in) diameter axles 1 off 25mm (lin) brass hinge 1 off Spring loaded ball type door catch assembly 2 off 38mm (iy2in) diameter wheels 1 off 95mm(3y4) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter steel axle 2 off Spring dome caps to suit 6mm (y4in) diameter axle 1 off 51 X 20 xiy2mm (2 x yt x yisin) thick rubber Mud flaps Make from 165 x114 xlVimm (6V2 x x yi6in) thick stiff plastic 158
VIEW ON UNDERSIDE OF TRAILER WHEELS OMITTED FOR CLARITY GENERAL ARRANGEMENT OF TRAILER CHASSIS CROSS MEMBERS MAKE SIX 20(%) THICK CROSS MEMBERS No 1 & 2: DIM ‘X’ = 146(53/4), DIM ‘Y’ = 54(2V8) CROSS MEMBERS No 3,4, 5 & 6; DIM ‘X’ = 121 (43/4), DIM ‘Y’ = 64(2V2) 22(V8) 76(3) 22(V8) 241 (9y2) REAR CHASSIS CROSS MEMBER 20(3/4) THICK
22{V8) in 76(3) 22(^/8) 165(61/2) ”7 38(11/2) i REAR AXLE SUPPORT MAKE TWO 22(V8) THICK ALSO REQUIRED: EIGHT 102(4) DIAM WHEELS TWO 6(1/4) DIAM X 254(10) LONG STEEL AXLES FOUR 12(1/2) O/D X 6(1/4) I/D X 6(1/4) THICK SPACERS FOUR SPRING DOME CAPS TO SUIT AXLE DIAM REAR AXLE SUPPORT TIE MEMBER 20(%) THICK 35(13/8) 20(3/4) 1 6(5/8) _ 83(31/4) 16(5/8) ^ i 25(1) t 16(5/8) 1 16(5/8)^ ut 241 (91/2) REAR BUMPER BAR ASSEMBLY 22(V8) 83(3'/4) rCM CM 1 CO ■ * * L ■f 241 ^-=- {9V2)---^ rCM MUDFLAP 1.5(1/16) THICK STIFF PLASTIC MAKE TWO REAR MUDFLAP SUPPORT BAR 16(5/8) THICK 160
51 x20x1.5(2x3/4X Vi6) RUBBER FRICTION PAD PINNED TO TOP OF LEG CHASSIS CROSS MEMBER JOCKEY WHEEL LEG ASSEMBLY ALSO REQUIRED: TWO 38(1 Va) DIAM WHEELS ONE 6(y4) DIAM X 95(33/4) LONG STEEL AXLE TWO SPRING DOME CAPS TO SUIT AXLE DIAM m 20(3/4) HITCH PIN ASSEMBLY 260(10y4)_ 20(3/4) -^-=-► 25(1) RADIUS —f- > 4H0LES3(V8)DIAM DIMENSION ‘H’ 25(1) L_ 41 (■ %) 25(1) HEAD AND TAIL BOARDS HEAD BOARD: DIM ‘H’ = 95(33/4) TAIL BOARD: DIM ‘H’ = 86(33/8)
162
In a world where time is money the very best equipment is necessary to get the quickest possible turn round of ships and trucks at the docks. The Hyster is the king of fork lifts. These Goliaths can pick up a 40' long steel container, stack it 24'in the air and without pausing for breath dash off to pick up another load. The combination of a large truck loaded with pallets full of building blocks and a fork lift truck will keep any youngster busy for many years. This model is tremendously strong and will withstand a youngster sitting and riding on it. I have given the ‘mast’ a tilt mechanism which is so necessary when trying to lift heavy objects. However, it is a model and will involve some quite involved woodworking. The tilting column is the most difficult part to construct and therefore studying the three- dimensional drawing will be of great help, so familiarise yourself with all the parts before starting. The Hyster will look best if constructed from a hardwood like beech. As with other models I have combined the timbers to give an interesting colour combination and the fork-lift mechanism of this particular model was made from mahogany. 1 As with all vehicles the chassis is the starting place. The main under- chassis has to be formed to allow the running board to be glued and screwed into place. Cut and drill the axle holes and lower tilt pin hole and the recess for the chrome plated tube which simulates a hydraulic ram. 2 Shaping of the back is done before the engine cowl is screwed on from the underside. Basic shaping of both these components is initially done with a coping saw, then a spokeshave and finish them off with glasspaper. On the real machine there are two recessed lines on the engine cowl. Two narrow saw cuts are first made, and then cut out with a chisel. This has to be carefully done with a very sharp chisel. Attention to small details of this sort are well worth while. As you will discover it is these that make the finished model look like its larger counterpart. Before screwing the cowl into place shape the back. Attach the cowl to the under-chassis and check final shaping at the back. 3 Mark and cut out a pair of cab walls. You will see from the plan that there is a right and left hand wall to be made. In effect this means that all the chamfers are on the outside edges. Keep the pair of walls together while holes are bored for column tilting handle, lower tilt pin hole, and fork raising handle. Once the cab entry door and recess underneath have been cut individual shaping of right and left hand sides can start. Small chamfers are vital to the finished look of the machine. 4 The walls are held together by bulkheads back and front. The rear bulkhead has a chamfered window at the top. Cut and shape the cab floor. 5 Before the cab walls and bulkheads are glued and screwed together, it is necessary to make the column tilting handle as it is only possible to fit this before the cab unit is fixed together. This handle should be made in beech. To get the column to tilt and stay fixed in position, two notches are cut in the underside of this lever. These must be a tight fit over the steel bar otherwise the tilt mechanism will not work well. 6 Fit the column tilting assembly and now screw and glue the cab together. 7 Before fixing the roof make the control console, driver's seat and gear lever. A little felt glued onto the driver's seat and the floor will greatly add to the quality look of the machine. 8 Cut and fit the perspex windows back and front. 9 The roof is secured using chrome- plated raised-head screws fitted with cups. Wherever screws are used on this model I have incorporated the chrome plated cups as this makes rather a nice feature. 10 The mudguards can be made in one of two ways; a steaming b cutting from a block of wood. I used the second method and it is not as daunting as it may seem at first. The hand saw for this job is a bow saw. After marking out the mudguards the first cut to make is the inside of the curve. Obviously a fairly large chunk of wood is necessary to hold in the vice while the cutting operation is going on. After cutting out the inside curve remove the saw cuts with a spokeshave or glass-paper. Now cut the outer edge of the mudguard. Adopt this procedure for both back and front mudguards. Remember that there are left and right hand mudguards when you come to chamfer the outer edges and cut the angles on the back mudguards. Nothing is worse than making a mistake after so much work. Check twice - cut once! After final shaping, glue the mudguards onto the chassis. 11 The exhaust stack is formed by planing the edges off a rectangular length of hardwood. The plane marks are removed with glasspaper. To add a touch of realism a small dowel rod is fixed in the top, and over this is fitted a length of black rubber tube. This is both decorative and functional as it prevents a child scratching his or her legs on the top of the exhaust stack. 163
12 Theonly way into the driver's cab is up the ladders. Perhaps the simplest method of ladder making in miniature is to fix together two lengths of hardwood, mark the position of the rungs and drill the holes, with both sides still fixed together. Make a simple jig and cut all the rungs to the same length. Glass-paper a small chamfer on the end of each dowel rod. The chamfer makes it possible to assemble the rungs into the holes with ease. Glue all the rungs into the holes on one side of the ladder, put a spot of glue on the ends of all the other dowel rods and fit the other side of the ladder on. Now put the whole assembly in the vice and gently apply pressure until all the dowel rods are flush with the sides. After the glue is dry, plane the edges to remove surplus glue etc. It is obviously simplest to just make one length of ladder and then cut off the required amount. 13 The ladder is fixed to the roof by two long strips which are fixed onto the two last rungs. The top edges are screwed onto the cab roof Fork lift mechanism How it works The lifting mechanism consists basically of three parts, tilting column assembly, raising column assembly and fork frame assembly. When the handles are turned to raise the fork mechanism, the raising column starts to rise in the tilting column. As the raising column travels upwards it raises the fork mechanism, which travels at twice the speed of the raising column and reaches the top as the raising column is fully extended. This does sound a little complicated, but when you get into the job it is not really as daunting as it sounds. The hydraulic ram does not actually push anything in the model but without it there is no realism. The steel rod ‘telescopes’ inside the chromed steel tube when the fork mechanism is operated up or down. 14 First construct the tilting column assembly. Basically this consists of two sides joined together by sections of hardwood. These cross pieces have notches cut in them to allow the nylon cord to operate without interfering with the raising column as it slides inside the tilting column. The plan shows exactly where these notches are. A specialist hand tool is required for making the tilting column sides. A plough plane is necessary to cut the grooves that run the full length of the columns. 15 In order to reduce friction two pulleys are incorporated. I was unable to find pulleys with a groove in them so I used existing wheels and with a sharp Stanley knife fashioned a groove to take the nylon cord. 16 The pulleys are mounted on steel rod with blocks screwed onto the tilting column. The pulleys are kept in the centre of the axles by plastic tube positioned either side of the pulley. 17 Now construct the raising column assembly. You will notice that the bottom former is notched to allow room for the chrome-plated tube. Also a hole is drilled in this former and takes the length of nylon cord which actuates the raising and lowering process. The cord goes over the upper pulley, down around the lower pulley and onto the winding shaft. This piece of cord is not connected to the fork lift guide block in any way. The other length of cord in the mechanism is attached at one end to the top of the tilting column assembly, through two screw eyes and onto the fork lift guide block. 18 The fork lift guide block has to be made carefully and the various slots cut accurately. 19 The guide block has to be fitted inside the raising column assembly. Quite obviously a good sliding fit is essential. A little candle wax will help tremendously. 20 Now assemble the raising block and tilting column together. It is at this stage that a good sliding fit is necessary and you may well have to spend a little time achieving this. 21 Construct the fork back frame assembly and glue and screw the fork arms into place. 22 The lower tilt pin attaches the tilting column to the chassis. The tilt pin goes through the bottom of the chromed steel tube (hydraulic ram). It is necessary to drill a hole through the tube before assembling the column. 23 After fitting the tilting column assembly it is then attached to the fork assembly. The position of this is shown in dotted lines on the three- dimensional drawing. 24 The winding mechanism has two handles to ‘crank’ up the load. The winding cord is attached to a block which is screwed onto the winding shaft with a small screw. The winding handles themselves are made from beech and dowel rods. The winding handles are kept in place by plastic ‘sleeves.’ You will find that threading the cord and attaching it to the winding shaft is quite a fiddly task as there is not a great deal of room to work. 25 The air cleaner is made from different diameter dowel rods. At the base a plastic tube is fitted and attached to the engine compartment. Attachment of the tube is easily achieved by fixing screws in the positions where you want the tube to go. The tube then simply fits over the ends of the screw heads. 26 If you have used hardwoods throughout, t
Cutting list Main underchassis 1 off 502 X 79 X 44mm (19¥i x 3V8 x l^tin) Timber Engine forward block 1 off 67 X 60 X 60mm (lYa x IVe x 2y8in) Timber Engine cowl 1 off 298 x79 x44mm (11% x 3y8 x l^iin) Timber Cab wall 2 off 292 X 200 X 20mm (1iy2 x IVsxy4in) Timber Mudguards Make from 305 x 67 x 60mm (12 x IVa x 23/8in) Timber Running board 2 off 248 X108 X 12mm (9y4 x 4y4 x y2in) Timber battery 2 off 38 X 25 X 20mm (iy2 x 1 x ^tin) Timber Cab roof panel 1 off 146 X 95 x16mm (5y4 x 3y4 x y8in) Timber Front bulkhead 1 off 140 X 79 X 16mm (5y2 x 3y8 x y8in) Timber Rear bulkhead 1 off 210 X 79 X 16mm (8y4 x 3y8 x ysin) Timber Windscreen frame 2 off 117 X 25 X 9mm (4y8 x 1 x y8in) Timber Ladder stringers Make from 1360 x 11 x 6mm (SSVixVu x y4in) Timber rungs Make from 460mm(18in) long x 6mm(V4in) diameter dowel Air intake Make from 70mm(2y4in) long x 22mm(y8in) diameter dowel 1 off 117mm(4y8in) long x 9mm(y8in) diameter dowel Exhaust stack 1 off 241 X 32 X 20mm (9y2 x iy4 x y4in) Timber 1 off 38mm (iy2in) long x 6mm (y4in) diameter dowel Fork raising handle Make from 356mm(14in) long x 9mm(y8in) diameter dowel Make from 140 x 25 x 20mm (5y2 x 1 x ^tin) Timber Make from 25mm (1in) diameter dowel off-cut Cab floor 1 off 98 X 79 X 6mm (3y8 x 3y8 x y4in) Plywood Control console 1 off 38 X 32 X 25mm (iy2 xiy4 xlin) Timber 1 off 38mm(iy2in) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter dowel Steering wheel Make from 22mm (^in) diameter dowel off-cut Seat plinth 1 off 70 X 41 X 20mm (2y4 x iy8 x Ymu) Timber Seat 1 off 51 X 38 X 38mm (2 xiy2 xiy2in) Timber Gear lever assembly 1 off 12mm (y2in) diameter dowel off-cut 1 off 8mm (yi6in) diameter dowel off-cut Column tilting handle 1 off 184 X 28 X 22mm (7y4 x iy8 x y8in) Timber 1 off 76mm(3in) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter dowel Column tilting fork 2 off 102 X 20 X 12mm (4 x yt x y2in) Timber 1 off 146 X 25 X 12mm (5y4 x 1 x y2in) Timber Tilting column crossmembers 4 off 119 X 22 X 18mm (4''yi6 x y8 x ''yuin) Timber verticals 2 off 330 X 43 X 20mm (13 x1''yi6 x y4in) Timber upper bearings 2 off 41 X 20 X 12mm (iy8 x x y2in) Timber lower bearings 2 off 76 x41 x16mm (3 xiy8 x yain) Timber Raising column verticals 2 off 330 X 20 X 12mm (13 x y* x y2in) Timber 1 off 76 X 51 X 25mm (3 x 2 xlin) Timber 1 off 76 x25 x18mm (3x1 x''yi6in) Timber Guide block 1 off 76 X 67 x41mm (3 x2y8xiy8in) Timber Fork back frame 2 off 213 X 44 X 18mm (8y8 x lyi x '’Viain) Timber 2 off 143 X 35 X 20mm (5y8 xV/a x ytin) Timber Fork crossbar 1 off 213 X 32 X 20mm (8y8 x iy4 x ytin) Timber Fork arms 2 off 184 X 25 X 20mm (7y4 x 1 x ytin) Timber Ancillaries Front axle assembly 1 off 273mm(10ytin) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter steel rod 4 off 102mm (4in) diameter road wheels 2 off 12mm (y2in) o/d x 6mm (y4in) i/d x 16mm (^/ain) long spacers 2 off Spring dome caps to suit 6mm (y4in) diameter Rear axle assembly 1 off 171mm(6y4in) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter steel rod 165
2 off 102mm (4in) diameter road wheels 2 off 12mm (V2in) o/d x6mm (^Ain) i/d x 12mm (^Ain) long spacers 2 off Spring dome caps to suit 6mm CAin) diameter Front screen 1 off 117 X 79 X 2mm (45/8 x SVe x yi6in) thick transparent plastic Rear screen 1 off 76 X 76 X 2mm (3 x 3 x yi6in) thick transparent plastic Air intake hose 1 off 9mm (Vein) o/d x 3mm (Vein) i/d x 57mm (2y4in) long rubber hose Exhaust stack 1 off 12mm (y2in) o/d x 6mm (y^in) i/d x 54mm (2y8in) long rubber hose Fork raising handle 2 off 12mm (y2in) o/d x 9mm (^Ain) i/d x 41mm (I^Ain) long spacers Gear lever 1 off 38mm (V/2\d) long plastic cover flexible wire x 3mm (^Ain) diameter Column tilting spindle 1 off 152mm(6in) long x 5mm(yi6in) diameter steel rod 2 off Spring dome caps to suit 5mm (yi6in) diameter 1 off 25mm (lin) diameter grooved wheel 2 off 9mm (y8in) o/d x 5mm (y6in) i/d x 35mm (IVsin) long spacers Column lock bar 1 off 117mm(45Ain) long x 5mm(yi6in) diameter steel bar Lower tilt pin 1 off 127mm(5in) longx 5mm(yi6ln) diameter steel bar) 2 off Spring dome caps to suit 5mm(y6in) diameter Upper pulley spindle 1 off 127mm(5in) long x 5mm(yi6in) diameter steel rod 2 off 9mm (y8in) o/d x 5mm (^sin) i/d x 38mm (I^Ain) long spacers 1 off 25mm (lin) diameter grooved wheel 2 off Spring dome caps to suit 5mm (yi6in) diameter Hydraulic cylinder 1 off 292mm (11''Ain) longx 8mm (5/6in) o/d x 6mm (y4in) i/d steel tube 1 off 298mm(1iy4in) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter steel rod Various screws 6 off 12mm(y2in) screwed eyes, length strong cord 166
502(193/4; ENGINE FORWARD BLOCK POSITION 22(78) I 22(78) n r t-i- ry 1 9(3/8) 35(13/8) 5(3/i6) DIAM 222(83/4) ENGINE COWL POSITION - 6(74) DIAM 133(574) ill II I < -m* ill 11 'I'4i- 9(3/8) 7^ \ 6(74) DIAM SCREW FOR AIR INTAKE HOSE POSITION OF RUNNING BOARD 248(93/4) 64(272) 2 12(72) MAIN UNDER CHASSIS ENGINE COWL 146(53/4) ^ 5(3/i6) -^ j 254(10) 5’(3/;6’) 203(8) ^ "T 5(7i6) MAIN UNDER CHASSIS 67(278) 60(23/8) ENGINE FORWARD BLOCK 248(93/4) 38(172) 44(13/4') CENTRE LINE OF /UNDER CHASSIS i BATTERY POSITION i 25(1) 1 RUNNING BOARD 167 67(278)
79(3V8) , 76(3) CAB WALL(left hand) 20(3/4) THICK CHAMFER AROUND CUTOUTS AS INDICATED , 98(3^8) ^-«-;-^-► r 1 ■j 11 -i 16(3/8) DRILL HOLE 5(Vi6) DIAM FROM CAB ^ WALLS, FOR FORK BAR- 119(43/8) LONG X 5(3/16) DIAM V 76x76x2(3x3X Vi6) TRANSPARENT PLASTIC PANEL SCREWED TO INSIDE OF REAR BULKHEAD 7 CHAMFER TOP AND BOTTOM TO SUIT ANGLE OF REAR EDGE OF CAB WALLS CONTROL CONSOLE POSITION 6(V4) SEAT PLINTH POSITION - CAB FLOOR 6(V4) THICK 22(Vb) 16(3/8) T~ 35(13/^ 38(1’72) 7CHAMFER TO SUIT ANGLE OF FRONT EDGE OF CAB WALLS REAR BULKHEAD FRONT BULKHEAD 168
146(5%) 184(71/4) 5(%6) DIAM COLUMN TILTING FORK ASSEMBLY 6(1/4) DIAM 32(11/4) 25(1) 5(%6) 5(3/16)-I ^ 64(21/2) ^ 83(31/4) L22(%) rCOLUMN TILTING HANDLE 6(1/4) RADIUS \ 7^“ 51 (2) 6(1/4) RADIUS 38(11/2) A 6(1/4) SEAT GEAR LEVER POSITION SEAT PLINTH 20(3/4) THICK GEAR LEVER ASSEMBLY CONTROL CONSOLE 6(1/4) DIAM X 76(3) LONG DOWEL
CHAMFER TOP EDGE TO SUIT ANGLE OF FRONT EDGE OF CAB WALL 0 0 0 0 - 0 0 0 0 117(45/8) FRONT SCREEN 117 X 79 X 2(45/8 x3V8X Vie) TRANSPARENT PLASTIC PANEL, SCREWED TO CAB WALLS WINDSCREEN ASSEMBLY 146(5%) i—, 5(%6)x 45° CHAMFER / 16(5/8) (- CAB ROOF PANEL REAR MUDGUARD 3(V8) r 1' 1 1 111 1 11 L. FRONT MUDGUARD 12(y2)0/Dx6(y4)l/D RUBBER HOSE 6(y4)DIAMx38(iy2) LONG DOWEL eCA) O) 20(3/4) T r / + (O FIXING HOLES L T9(%) 44(1%) -A32(1’A) J 20(%) f C ru32(1’A) n 7 RUNGS 6(74) DlAM CM CM _l < 3 oLU EXHAUST STACK 6(1/4) 1^ - 16(5/8) 11(%6) ACCESS LADDER MAKE TWO 170
330(13) RAISING COLUMN ASSEMBLY 298(113/4) LONG X 6(V4)diam steel rod UPPER PULLEY ASSEMBLY 127(5) LONG X 5(3/16) DIAM STEEL ROD TWO SPACERS 38(1 V2) LONG x 9(3/8) O.D.x 5(3/16'I.D. ONE 25(1) DIAM GROOVED WHEEL TWO SPRING DOME CAPS 292(11V2) LONG X 8(3/i6) O.D. x 6(y4) I.D. CHROMED STEEL TUBE TILTING COLUMN ASSEMBLY LOWER TILT PIN 127(5) LONG X 5(3/i6) DIAM STEEL ROD SPRING DOME CAP LOWER PULLEY ASSEMBLY 152(6) LONG x5(3/i 6) DIAM STEEL ROD TWO SPRING DOME CAPS ONE 25(1) DIAM GROOVED WHEEL TWO SPACERS 35(13/8) LONG x 9(3/8) O.D.x 5(3/16) I.D. POSITION OF COLUMN TILTING FORK ASSEMBLY 119(4'Vi6) T 22{V8) 12(72) DIAM SCREWED EYE 12(V2) 20(3/4) 22(V8) 22(V8) r L22(^8) £5 CD 22(78) C\J s r r♦ 1 1 1 4- + + 4- 1 n 1 1 M I 4- "T" 1 1 11 I 11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 + 1 1 1 1 4- 1*.- + 16(5/8)—* 4“ + 1 II lx 1 II 1 ” 1 11 —J 1 1j 1 1 1 ’ 11 5(3/16) DIAM, n 41(178) 5(3/16) DIAM 25(1) 16(5/8) li 20(3/4) J25(1) 20(3/4)- ti ^32 0^1 5(3/16) DIAM TILTING COLUMN J 1 T 18P’/i6l t 5(3/16) 1 20(3/4) 20(3/4) NOTE: TOP MEMBER HAS A 12(72) DIAM SCREWED EYE CENTRALLY AND HAS NO CUTOUTS SECOND MEMBER AS DRAWN WITH 3(78) CUTOUT IN FORE FACE ONLY THIRD MEMBER HAS 3(78) CUTOUTS IN FORE AND AFT FACES FOURTH MEMBER IS AS SECOND TILTING COLUMN CROSS MEMBER MAKE FOUR 119(4’Vie) -18(”/i6) 16(5/8) 43(1 ”/i6) 20(3/4) TILTING COLUMN ASSEMBLY 171
TWO 12(V2) SCREWED EYES 3/8) 1 L i2(y2) 20(3/4) 20(3/4) COLUMN TOP CROSS MEMBER 3(V8) DIAM 76(3) A i 1 rAA18(”/i6) — 1_n— ri~ \ 5(3/16) -J U- 9(3/8) ^51(2)^ ^ 6(74) 6(74) J 25(1) RAISING COLUMN ASSEMBLY COLUMN LOWER CROSS MEMBER 67(2%) r I i4(%6) ^2{V^ TWO 12(72) DIAM SCREWED EYES 9(3/8) 35(13/8) '1 20(3/4) \ -r~ 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1+ 1 4- 1 CO CO 1 1 r-. i-f + j 1 POSITION OF FORK BACK FRAME TOP CROSS MEMBER 9 3/8) r FIXING HOLE CENTRES / 25(1) r 4 4>^ i — - > , -J ^ 1 20(3/4) o C\J r 184(774) ^ 64(272)^ 9(3/8) FORK ARMS MAKE TWO 20(3/4) 213(83/e) J20(3/4) 35(13/8 H^25(1) 25(1 )-► 35(13/8 FORK LIFT GUIDE BLOCK FORK CROSS BAR
FIXING HOLE CENTRES FORK BACK FRAME ASSEMBLY FORK RAISING HANDLE ASSEMBLY 22(V8) DIAM AIR INTAKE
174
The V8 Land Rover represents the most powerful version of this well- known vehicle. The 3500cc engine makes it a superb unit for towing trailers of all sorts over the toughest terrain. In appearance it differs slightly from other Land Rovers in that the radiator is flush with the front wings and badging is different with an extra logo down the side. Land Rover enthusiasts can distinguish a V8 approaching by the deep throated chuckle of its engine. It is quite simply the vehicle that climbs hills that others can’t! 1 The firstjob to tackle is the making of the chassis. Tape two lengths of wood together and drill the axle holes. 2 Now cut and shape the front bumper and cross pieces. Glue these onto the main chassis. 3 The side panels are next. The first thing to be aware of here is that you need a right and left hand side. The first work to be done is the rebate which takes the front bulkhead and the stopped rebate towards the back. Mark clearly with a marking knife these two rebates. Using a tenon saw cut along the lines and chisel out the middle portions. Care is necessary to get to the right depth. Take only a little wood out at a time. 4 Once the rebates have been cut, blocks of wood are glued onto the sides of the panels. These represent the front mudguards. To represent the headlamps I bought some chrome plated electrical screw fittings and drilled holes in the front wings to take them. Now shaping of wheel arches and mudguards can be done. These can be cut out with a coping saw and finely shaped with spokeshave and glasspaper. 5 The radiator recess is cut from a solid block of wood. To take the grill, the front of the block is recessed using a large chisel. Only a shallow recess is necessary. Before cutting, mark with a knife all around the area to be removed. This stops ragged edges developing. 6 Cut and shape the front bulkhead, the central underfloor cross member and the rear bumper bar. The side panels can now be glued onto the bulkhead, the cross member and rear bumper. Fixed onto the bumper is a further cross piece glued in between the side panels. This gives support to the back of the floor. Now fix on the rear number plate. 7 Now cut the tailboard with a fine toothed saw such as a coping saw. The opening section must be cut carefully as the piece you take out will be used again. This piece is hinged. It is necessary to cut recesses to take the hinges. The tail board is kept shut by hooks, eyes and two short lengths of chain. 8 The floor is made from plywood and glued into the cross pieces. 9 Now make the cab foot pedals and gear lever assembly. The gear lever is easily made from dowel rod. A piece of plastic tube pushed over the top and painted black simulates a gear knob. 10 The front fascia is now shaped and drilled to take the steering wheel. It takes a little time and effort to shape and carve the steering wheel. 11 Shape up the rear bench seats. A radius is cut on the outside faces of these to allow the wheel clearance in the arch. 12 The driver’s seat is cut from a block of wood. To add a touch of luxury to the seats I covered them with a brown felt. The material texture adds something to the richness of the wood. 13 Cut the bonnet to size and carefully round off all the edges. The bonnet is hinged to the front bulkhead. The spare wheel is mounted on the bonnet. I felt that rather than use a bolt I wanted the top of the wheel to have a nice chrome plated spring cap, so I cut a short length of steel rod, drilled a hole through the bonnet and fixed the wheel in place, securing it either side with a spring cap. Using a magnetic catch gives a realistic ‘click’ when the bonnet is closed. I did not put an imitation engine in this model, but if you wish to, refer to the County which has engine details. 14 Now cut out the windscreen panel. The centre bar is fixed in afterwards to simplify the construc¬ tion. The windscreen is slightly raked. This is achieved by planing a slight angle on the bottom. Glue the windscreen onto the front bulkhead. 15 Now there are many variants on Land Rover bodies. I chose to do the 175
canvas covered version. If you are building for a young child vv'ho wants to ride on the roof then substitute the design and fit solid wood panels. 16 The woodwork to hold the canopy resembles a tent structure (see three dimensional drawing). There are some joints to be cut, but these are all of the halving joint variety. After cutting all the joints, assemble it dry onto the vehicle to check that all the parts fit. If everything fits, glue the joints together. 17 Finding the right ‘weight’ and colour of canvas was difficult. Finally I bought a stiff denim as used for jeans. This material proved to be ideal as once the seams were folded in, a hot iron was sufRcientto hold the material in place without getting involved in threading needles and other technical things. 18 Glueing the denim onto the framework would be rather messy. I therefore used raised head chrome plated screws and cup washers. This makes rather an interesting feature and allows the hood to be removed. 19 The rear fly sheet is fiddly and does need a hem around the opening piece. The window I made from a thick piece of clear plastic. This was glued or stitched onto the denim. The fly sheet is then fixed onto the rear canopy cross member and back frame posts with screws and cup washers. 20 Before the final fixing of the denim takes place, cut and fix the perspex to the front windscreen and side windows. The door window sills are glued onto the perspex. 21 Now drill two small holes both sides of the engine bulkhead. These are to take the mirrors. The mirror itself is made from plywood. It is attached to the plastic covered spiral curtain wire by a small cable clip (available at electricians). In order that the curtain wire keeps its shape a piece of,ordinary steel wire is pushed inside it and the wire bent to shape. The wires are glued into the bulkhead holes with epoxy resin. 22 The chassis and bodywork are now joined together. This is done by four large screws fixing the chassis to the bulkheads. 23 The finish is entirely up to you. If a good quality hardwood is used then varnish is all that is necessary. Wood is beautiful, don’t cover it. On the other hand the restrained use of paint can add, and sometimes highlight, the true beauty of the natural colour. 176
Cutting list Main chassis 2 off 359 X 30 X 18mm (14V8 x1Ti6 x'lVuin) Timber 2 off 149 X 22 X 16mm (5% x % x Vsin) Timber 2 off 83 x18 x12mm (3y4x''yi6 xy2in) Timber 1 off 213 X 35 X 20mm (8% xV/b x y4in) Timber 1 off 83 X16 X 6mm (3y4 x Vs x y4in) Timber Side panel 2 off 473 X 79 X 20mm (lOVs x 3y8 x ^tin) Timber 2 off 146 X 79 X 30mm (5y4 x 3y8 x ITuin) Timber Floor assembly 1 off 311 X171 X 5mm (12y4 x 6% x Tuin) Plywood 1 off 171 X 20 X 20mm (6y4 x Tt x y4in) Timber 1 off 184 X 28 x16mm (7V4 xV/b x y8in) Timber 1 off 171 X 32 X 20mm {G^AxVA x Ttin) Timber Front bulkhead 1 off 184 X 95 X 16mm (7y4 x 3y4 x Vein) Timber Fascia 1 off 171 X 38 x16mm (6y4 xiy2 xlVsin) Timber Steering wheel assembly 1 off 47mm (iy8in) diameter disc x 6mm {Vmv) thick Timber 1 off 51mm (2in) long x 6mm (y4in) diameter dowel Cab foot pedal and gear lever 1 off 171 X 22 X 20mm (6y4 x Vb x Vmu) Timber 1 off 51mm (2in) long x 6mm (y4in) diameter dowel Wing mirror 2 off 32 X 20 X 6mm (TA x ¥4 x y4in) Timber Radiator assembly 1 off 111 X 64 X 16mm (4y8 x 2y2 x Tain) Timber 1 off 111 X 20 X 3mm (4y8 x T? x Tsin) Timber Bonnet 1 off 146 X140 X 16mm (5y4 x 5y2 x Vsin) Timber Driver’s seat assembly 1 off 171 X 76 X 9mm (6^4 x 3 x Tain) Timber 1 off 171 X 38 X 32mm (6y4 x iy2 x TAin) Timber Rear bench seats 2 off 219 X 35 X 20mm (OVs x P/b x Ttin) Timber Tail board 1 off 210 X 67 X 9mm (8y4 x 2y8 x Tsin) Timber Rear bumper bar 1 off 210 X 20 X 16mm (8y4 x Ti x yain) Timber Windscreen panel 1 off 184 X 92 X 12mm (7y4 x SVb x y2in) Timber 1 off 57 X12 X 6mm (2y4 x y2 x y4in) Timber Front door post 2 off 127 X16 X 12mm (5 x Yb x y2in) Timber Side window sill 2 off 89 X 20 X 3mm (3y2 x Tt x Tsin) Timber Rear canopy frame post 2 off 127 X16 X 16mm (5 x ys x yein) Timber Canopy lower strip 2 off 191 X 20 X 6mm (7y2 x Tt x y4in) Timber Rear number plate 1 off 171 X 22 X 16mm (6y4 x Vb x yain) Timber Canopy top side strip 2 off 314 X12 X 12mm (12y8 x y2 x y2in) Timber Front canopy cross member 1 off 177 X 32 X 12mm (7 x iy4 x y2in) Timber Central canopy cross member 1 off 177 X 25 x12mm (7 x1 x y2in) Timber Rear canopy cross member 1 off 177 X 32 X 12mm (7 xVAx Viln) Timber Anciliaries Main chassis 4 off 102mm (4in) diameter road wheels 2 off 225mm (OTsin) longx 6mm (y4in) diameter steel axles 4 off 12mm (y2in) o/d x 6mm (y4in) i/d x 6mm (y4in) long spacers 4 off Spring dome caps to suit 6mm (y4in) diameter axles Side panel 2 off 22mm (Tain) diameter chromed 'head lamps' Cab foot pedal and gear lever 1 off 9mm (Tain) o/d x 6mm (y4in) i/d x12mm (y2in) long tube 3 off 9mm (Tain) diameter head brass drawing pins Wing mirror - arm Make from 127mm (Sin) long x 3mm (Vsin) diameter nylon cover curtain wire 2 off 3mm (Tain) diameter cable grips Radiator assembly 1 off Magnetic catch and packer 1 off Wire mesh from 4 x 2mm (102 x 51 in) Bonnet 1 off 102mm (4in) diameter spare road wheel 177
1 off 57mm (2y4in) long x 6mm (%in) diameter steel pin 2 off Spring dome caps to suit 6mm (%in) diameter pins 2 off 25mm (lin) long brass hinges Driver’s seat covering Make from 177 x 177mm (7 x 7in) felt Tail board 2 off 25mm (lin) long brass hinges 2 off Screwed eyes 2 off Screwed hooks 2 off 32mm (VA\u) lengths of chain Windscreen 1 off 168 X 67 xT5mm (SVs x 2% xyi6in) thick clear plastic Rear mud flap 2 off 70 X 38 X 1mm {VAxV/ixVmu) thick black plastic Side windows 2 off 89 X 89 X1 -Smm (SVi x 31/2 x yi6in) thick clear plastic Canopy Make from 445 x 356mm n7V2 x14in) canvas Rear fly sheet Make from 229 x 152mm (9 x 6in) canvas 1 off 83 X 57 X1 •5mm (3yi x I'^A x y^in) thick clear plastic Canopy fitted with 26 off 9mm (Tsin) long dome headed chrome screws and cup washers MAIN CHASSIS 178
30(13/16) 1 1 1 (43/8) Gi- s CO 1 1 WIRE MESH IN RECESS t 5(3 /16) 5(3 Lhe) 16(3/8) KMAGNETIC CATCH POSITIONED CENTRALLY TO SUIT PLATE ON BONNET 3(V8) 20(3/4) RADIATOR ASSEMBLY 2 HOLES 3(V8) DIAM FRONT BULKHEAD 179
-- 20(3/4) 1 114(4V2) t 00 [ C\j CENTRAL UNDERFLOOR CROSS MEMBER 16(5/8) THICK 210(8V4) >=: 20(3/4) I 9(3/8) \ ( 171(63/4) lt16(5/8) REAR BUMPER BAR 171(63/4) II r-^===— ii 1 ii4(4y2) ^ 9(3/8) TAIL BOARD SCREWED EYES SCREWED HOOKS TAIL BOARD FITTINGS REAR NUMBER PLATE 180
67(2%) ^ 5 ^ a 3 BRASS J DRAWING PINS ooo 25(1)—J = l = |-*— 171(6%) CAB FOOT PEDAL & GEAR LEVER ASSEMBLY FASCIA —^ k- 6(1/4) DIAM STEERING WHEEL ASSEMBLY REAR BENCH SEATS MAKE ONE OF EACH HAND 9(%) ^ — FELT \ 41(1%) _J 76 32(11/4) y 171(6%) ^ 38(1 V2) ^-► DRIVER SEAT ASSEMBLY TWO 25(1) BRASS HINGES BONNET 181
90(3^/16) WINDSCREEN PANEL FRONT CANOPY CROSS MEMBER CENTRAL CANOPY CROSS MEMBER CANOPY TOP SIDE STRIPS REAR CANOPY CROSS MEMBER FACIA FRONT BULKHEAD DOOR WINDOW SILL 89 X 20 X 3(3y2 X ¥4 x Vs) FRONT DOOR POST CANOPY LOWER STRIP 191 x20x6(7y2 x3/4X V4) SIDE PANEL MAIN CHASSIS REAR CANOPY FRAME POST FLOOR ASSEMBLY REAR BUMPER BAR REAR NUMBER PLATE TAILBOARD CANOPY AND REAR BODY ASSEMBLY WINDSCREEN PANEL 1.5(Vi6) thick PLASTIC 168x67(65/8x25/8) GLUED TO INSIDE OF PANEL 16(5/8) 16(5/8) 16(5/8) n i2(y2) 21 ('3/16) a 12(’/2) 41(15/8) i T12(’/2) o21 ('3/16) 1 6('/4) REAR CANOPY FRAME POST MAKE TWO 3('/8) CUT OUT TO CLEAR REAR OF DRIVER’S SEAT FRONT POOR POST MAKE ONE OF EACH HAND POSITION OF CENTRAL POSITION OF FRONT 182
FRONT CANOPY CROSS MEMBER 120/2) THICK CENTRAL CANOPY CROSS MEMBER 120/2) THICK 12(1/2) RADIUS 83 X 57(31/4 X 21/4) CLEAR PLASTIC STITCHED TO CANVAS REAR FLY SHEET CANVAS 20(%) CM i " CO I- -CABLE GRIP 1i NYLON COVERED ^^25(1 )^ 3(1/8) DIAM FLEXIBLE WIRE WING MIRROR 6(1/4) THICK MAKE ONE OF EACH HAND* 1(1/32) THICK BLACK PLASTIC, PINNED TO UNDERSIDE OF REAR UNDERFLOOR CROSS MEMBER 20(3/4) i 20(3/4) CM 0 h- 11 ii 38(11/2) REAR MUDFLAP MAKE ONE OF EACH HAND 114(41/2)
This latest addition to the Land Rover range is most impressive in appear¬ ance, with its two-tone finish. But if you think it’s just a face lift look inside and you will find cloth covered individual bucket seats for driver and passengers. The interior is far more luxurious than the usual Land Rover and the acoustic ‘kit’ inside has deadened much of the noise that one usually gets. This is one of the most difficult models to build as I have tried to build it, quite literally, like the real thing. From drawings and photographs supplied to me by Land Rover I have tried to copy the real vehicle in miniature. The springs give the model all-round suspension and the use of felt gives the interior a feeling of luxury. The back door opens to give access for passengers. Modelling the engine was quite fun. As I had not put any engine details in the V8 model I thought I should at least try and get this sort of detail in this vehicle. It was perhaps the radiator grill that required the most care and took me many hours to complete. I was determined not to paint the vehicle, so it was necessary to use mahogany for the lower half of the bodywork and sycamore for the top. The chassis was made in beech. 1 As with the real vehicle start by building the chassis. Make two chassis members, one of each hand (left and right). Note the number of stopped mortices that have to be cut and the stub tenons on both ends of the chassis members that fit into the back and front bumpers. By studying the chassis drawing you will see the importance of a right and left hand side. Note that some stopped mortice holes (blind mortices) have to be cut on either side of the chassis member. 2 Studying the ‘general layout’ chassis drawing you will see that the main chassis members are held together by four cross members. The cross members have stub tenons cut on the ends to fit into the mortice holes. Make the four outriggers that fit into the stopped mortices (blind mortices) on the outside of the chassis. Make the front and back bumpers. An interesting little detail to include is the rear grab handles and the little step for passengers getting into the back. These were cut from beech and glued on. 3 The spring hangers (brackets) are made from beech. Fix them together in pairs to shape and drill the necessary spring mounting holes. These brackets are tremendously strong and while driving the real vehicle in deep ruts would frequently gouge up the clay as the vehicle progressed. The hangers in the model are glued onto the chassis. 4 Although this book is basically about wood there are inevitably some metal parts required in the models we build, the most difficult of these being springs. The only tools necessary to make the springs are a six inch smooth cut file, drills capable of drilling mild steel, round nosed pliers and a small hack saw. Start by cutting to length the spring steel. Holding the main leaf and using the round nosed pliers, bend the hook on each end. A bush (tube) is necessary to take the pin that holds the spring in the hanger. The inside diameter of the tube needs to be the same as the pin that goes through the spring hanger. Fit the bushes in the ends of the springs and using the pliers squeeze the hook around them to hold them In place. Now cut to length the other leaves. These leaves are held together by spring clamps made from the same material as the springs. When the spring is all fixed together a hole is drilled In the middle. 5 Front and back axles are now cut out. Before any shaping takes place to represent the circular shape of axle cases, drill holes to take the axles. These stub axles are glued into the wood with epoxy resin. Drill holes to take the prop shafts. Now shape up the axles rounding off all the edges. The axles are attached to the springs with screws that pass through the pre¬ drilled holes in the middle of the springs. 6 Make two lower side panels, one of each hand. It is most important that the rebates to take bulkheads are cut before any shaping of the sides takes place. Mark out the rebates and remove the waste wood with a chisel. Check that the bottom of the rebate Is of uniform depth. To form the front mudguards, blocks of wood are now glued onto the side panels. Drill holes to take headlamp and side lights. Now shaping of wheel arches and mudguards can be carried out. To simulate doors and handles carve a small recess or indentation on the outside of the panel. 7 The radiator grill needs a lot of care. Basically It consists of a grill frame from which the basic shape of the radiator has been cut. That’s the easy part. The grill frame on the original model was made from mahogany and the ‘infill’ pieces from sycamore. The important thing is to get contrasting timbers. Cutting out the ‘infills’ has to be done with an extremely fine saw - a fret saw is ideal. Once all the pieces have been cut, assembling the pieces ‘dry’ (without glue) is essential to see that everything fits. In effect this is probably th
8 Now shape up the engine and gearbox block. It is important to fit this before cutting the front bulkhead. The front bulkhead has to be cut away at the bottom to accommodate the engine and gearbox. While shaping the engine and gearbox make the small block that houses the front wheel drive shaft. 9 Cut the bulkheads and fit them into the rebates in the side panels. Prepare the bonnet at this stage as it has to be hinged onto the front bulkhead. 10 The cab and passenger compartment floors are made from plywood, but these cannot be glued into place until the bulkheads and side panels are glued together and onto the chassis. 11 The secret of a successful assembly of the chassis and side panels depends on fitting all the pieces together ‘dry' (without glue). Only when all parts fit well should any attempt be made to 'glue up’. It can be a very time consuming business but unless all parts fit well, glueing the bodywork together will be difficult and hours of work wasted. You will find two small wood cramps invaluable as the side panels have to be held onto the bulkheads while the glue dries. 12 Once glued up, the floors can be fitted and work can begin on the interior. The dashboard is detailed and miniature dials can be cut out and stuck on. The steering wheel is fitted to a short length of dowel rod and attached to the engine bulkhead by a small block that fits between the front fascia and parcel shelf The gear levers, selectors etc. are all made from dowel rod. To add realism a short length of plastic tube is fitted to simulate a knob. These need to be painted black, yellow and red. Don’t forget to make the hand brake which is fitted beneath the driver’s seat. The cab seats are all made from a block of pine. You can cut them individually, or plane up a long block of wood, rebate it and then cut off lengths of seat as required. Cover the seats with felt. The central console (glove box) is shaped from a beech block. The rear seat rests are made from plywood and glued into place. The passenger compartment floor is covered in black felt, adding a touch of luxury. Spend a little time on the inside, it is well worth the effort. 13 The windscreen, cab walls and roof come next. Unlike the V8 the windscreen is shaped from one single piece of wood. Cut the windows out with a coping or jig-saw. After cutting out, glasspaper all sawing marks off and round off the edges of all the window frames. The rear portion of the body is made in two halves. The door is made from plywood. The cab roof is made from a solid piece of wood planed down at the front. Once again careful fitting of all joints is essential before glue is applied. The cab must be varnished before it is glued together. Be sure that no varnish gets on the edges to be glued other¬ wise the pieces will not stick. The perspex must be fitted before the roof is glued into place. The perspex is fitted tight on all edges and in this way only a spot of glue is necessary to keep it in place. 14 Once the roof is fitted the back portion of the body is fixed. Fix the back door on using small brass hinges. Fix a spare wheel onto the back door using a fairly long screw. The doOr is kept closed with a small brass hook and eye closer. Cut and fit the ventilator covers on the front screen. Now cut the three supports for the ‘tropical roof (roof rack). To make these follow the existing roof line it is necessary to score them on the underside with a sharp knife. This will allow bending without breaking. Now glue them into place. The tropical roof that fits onto the supports is made from thin plywood. Once again the underside of this is scored with a knife to allow bending. Glue the plywood into place, using weights to keep it in place while the glue sets. 15 The wing mirrors are made from plywood and fixed onto the side panels with flexible curtain wire. Once again they are stiffened by iron wire threaded through the flex. Epoxy resin glue is used to fix them permanently into the pre-drilled holes. 16 The indicators are made by sanding down the end of a dowel rod to form a dome shape. Paint them the appropriate colours, and glue into the pre-drilled holes. 17 Now add the final touches to the engine compartment, putting in the radiator, radiator cap, air cleaner, carburettor and battery. If you wish you can add a lot more detail. 18 It only remains to add the spot¬ lights to the front bumper and attach the number plates. 19 I used matt coat varnish to finish off as I felt that the hardwood itself was so beautiful it was a pity to cover it with paint. This is, of course, a personal choice. Cutting list Main chassis 2 off 487 X 41 X 16mm (19Yi6 x lYs x Ysin) Timber Front bumper 1 off 232 X 20 X 16mm (9y8 x x Vein) Timber 1 off 73 X16 X 5mm (2% x Vs x Tisin) Timber Spot lamp Make from 54 x 14 x 8mm (IVs x Yi6 x Yi6in) Timber First cross member 1 off 142 X 20 X 16mm (5^/8 x % x Vein) Timber 186
Kear spring rear bracket Make from 165 x 20 x 6mm (6y2 x ¥i x ''Ain) Timber Rear spring front bracket Make from 191 x25x6mm (7^/2 x1 x'lAin) Timber Front spring front bracket Make from 241 x 25 x 6mm ('91/2 x 1 x "'Ain) Timber Lower side panel 2 off 476 X 92 X 12mm (18y4 x 3y8 x y2ln) Timber 2 off 156 X 92 X 32mm (6y8 x 3y8 xTAin) Timber Second cross member 1 off 156 X 41 X 16mm (6y8 x V/a x y8in) Timber Third cross member 1 off 146x28x16mm (5y4 xTA xy8in) Timber Fourth cross member 1 off 142 X 22 X 16mm (5y8 x Va x y8in) Timber 1 off 76 X 22 X 9mm (3 x y8 x y8ln) Timber Rear bumper 1 off 216 X 25 x16mm (8^/2 x1 x y8in) Timber 1 off 98 X16 X 9mm (3y8 x ys x y8in) Timber Front outrigger Make from 83 x 22 x 16mm (3''A x Vs x Vein) Timber Rear outrigger Make from 73 x 22 x 16mm (2% x Va x Vain) Timber Hand grip Make from 76 x 9 x 6mm (3 x Va x V-tin) Timber Step 1 off 22 X12 X 5mm (y8 x y2 x Tiain) Timber Front axle 1 off 171 X 38 X 22mm (6y4 xV/ix Vam) Timber Rear axle 1 off 171 X 41 X 22mm (6y4 x V/a x Tain) Timber 1 off 111mm(4y8in) long x 9mm(y8in) diameter dowel Rear drive flywheel 1 off 38mm(iy2in) diameter x16mm(y8in) thick disc 1 off 25mm(1in) long x 9mm(y8in) diameter dowel Front wheel drive shaft 1 off 44 X 22 X 12mm {VA x Va x Viiu) Timber 1 off 60mm(2y8in) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter dowel Grill frame 1 off 140 X 59 x12mm (5y2 x 2yi6 x y2in) Timber Grill Make from 381 x 6 x 3mm (15 x V-t x Vain) Timber Make from 76 x 6 x 5mm (3 x ''A x Tiain) Timber Make from 76 x 38 x 6mm (3 xV/2 x V4in) Timber Make from 73 x 11 x 3mm (2Va x Via x Va) Timber Engine block 1 off 187 X 76 X 44mm (7y8 x 3 x TAin) Timber Manifold 1 off '64 X 22 X 22mm (2y2 x Va x Tain) Timber Gear lever 1 off 70mm(2y4in) long x 6mm(y4in) diameter dowel Select lever 1 off 28mm(iy8in) long x 6mm(y4in) diameter dowel Air filter 1 off 25mm(1in) diameter x 20mm(y4in) thick disc Bonnet 1 off 184 X137 X 16mm (7y4 x 5y8 x yain) Timber Radiator 1 off 108 X 44 X 12mm (4y4 xVA x y2in) Timber Radiator filling cap 1 off 22mm(y8in) long x 6mm(y4in) diameter dowel Battery 1 off 44 X 32 X 22mm (TA x VA x Tain) Timber Rocker cover 1 off 38 x16 x12mm (VA xV/a xy2in) Timber Skirt 1 off 140 X 22 X 3mm (5y2 x Ta x yain) Timber Gab front bulkhead 1 off 213 X 95 X 12mm (SVa x x y2in) Timber 1 off 187 X12 X 6mm (7y8 x y2 x y4in) Timber 1 off 70 X 22 X 9mm (2y4 x Va x Tain) Timber Instruments Make from 25mm(1in) longx16mm(y8in) diameter dowel Front windscreen 1 off 213 X 92 X 12mm (8y8 x 3y8 x y2in) Timber Ventilator covers 2 off 86 X12 X 3mm (3y8 x y2 x yain) Timber Fascia 1 off 187 X 20 X 9mm (7y8 x y4 x Tain) Timber Side panel 2 off 295 X102 X 12mm (IT/a x 4 x ^Ain) Timber Wing mirror 2 off 32 X16 X 8mm (VA x Va x Viain) Timber Gab rear partition 1 off 213 X 57 X 12mm (83/8 x 21/4 x ^Ain) Timber Rear panel 2 off 175 X106 X 12mm (6y8 x43/i6 x y2in) Timber Rear number plate 1 off 32 X 25 X 3mm (VA x 1 x yain) Timber Rear door 1 off 154 X130 X 9mm (6yi6 x 5y8 x ^/ain) Plywood 187
Cab floor 1 off 203 X 70 X 3mm (8 x 2Va x Vein) Plywood 2 off 83 X 70 X 3mm (3''A x 2% x Vein) Plywood 1 off 203 X 38 X 12mm (8x1V2xV2in) Timber Floor lever 1 off 41mmnVsin) longx 6mm(V4in) diameter dowel Brake lever 1 off 64 X 48 X 6mm (2V2 x 1 Ve x V4in) Timber Cab seat 2 off 83 X 70 X 51mm (3% x IVa x 2in) Timber Steering wheel 1 off 41mm(1Vein) diameter x 9mm(Vein) thick disc 1 off 60mm('2Vein) long x 6mm(V4in) diameter dowel Control console 1 off 67 X 44 X 28mm (2ye x 1 Vt x 1 Vein) Timber Rear compartment floor 1 off 159 X140 X 3mm (6V4 x 5V2 x Vein) Plywood Rear seat rests 2 off 146 X 38 X 3mm (5V4 x 1V2 x Vein) Plywood 2 off 146 X 28 X 3mm (SVa x 1 Ve x Vein) Plywood Rear seats 4 off 64 X 54 X 51 mm (2V2 x 2Ve x 2in) Timber Lights Make from 229mm(9in) longx 6mm(y4in) diameter dowel Roof 1 off 279 X 213 x16mm (11 x 8Ve x Vein) Timber Roof rack 1 off 267 X178 X 3mm (IOV2 x 7 x Vein) Plywood 3 off 275 X 9 X 6mm (IOV4 x Ve x V4in) Timber Ancillaries Spot lamp support Make from 54mm (2^^in) long x 5mm (M6in) diameter steel bar Rear spring Make from 1170x16 x1 •5mm (46 x Vs x Vi6in) spring steel Front spring Make from 920x16x1 •5mm (36xy8xVi6in) spring steel Spring clamps_Make from 305 x 6 x 1 -Smm (12 x V4 x ^/i6in) spring steel_ _8 off 6mm (V4in) o/d x 5mm (^/i6in) i/d x 16mm (Vsin) long tubes Spring hangers_Make from 305 x 11 x 1 -Smm (12 x ~'Ab x V:6\r\) thick steel_ Front spring assembly 2 off 35mm(1V8in) longx5mm(Vi6in) diameter steel pins 4 off 25mm(1 in) long x 5mm(Visin) diameter steel pins 12 off Spring dome caps to suit Smm (Vi6in) diameter pins Rear spring assembly 6 off 35mm(1V8in) longx 5mm(Vi6in) diameter steel pins 4 off 9mm(V8in) o/d x 5mm(Vi6in) i/d x 6mm(V4in) long spacers 12 off Spring dome caps to suit Smm (Vuin) diameter pins Front axles 2 off 89mm(3V2in) longx 6mm(V4in) diameter steel rods 2 off 102mm (4in) diameter road wheels 2 off Spring dome caps to suit 6mm (V4in) diameter axles Rear axles 2 off 89mm(3V2in) long x 6mm(V4in) diameter steel rods 2 off 102mm (4in) diameter road wheels 2 off Spring dome caps to suit 6mm (V4in) diameter axles Grill 1 off Wire mesh 127 x 41mm (5 x1V8in) Lever knobs Make from 25mm(1in) long x 9mm(V8in) o/d x 6mm(V4in) i/d tube Radiator hose 1 off 32mm(1V4in) longx 6mm(V4in) diameter coaxial cable Air filter hose 1 off 70mm(2V4in) long x 9mm(V8in) o/d x 6mm(V4in) i/d rubber tube Front screen 1 off 187 X 76 xTSmm (7V8 x 3 x Vi6in) thick clear plastic Side screens 2 off 292 X 83 xTSmm (11 Vi x 3V4 x Vi6in) thick clear plastic Rear door window 1 off 121 X 83 X1 -Smm (4V4 x 3V4 x Vi6in) thick clear plastic Rear side windows 2 off 83 X 25 X 1.5mm (3V4 x 1 x Vi6in) thick clear plastic Wing mirror arm Make from 127mm(5in) long x 5mm(Vi6in) diameter steel wire Rear door hinges 2 off 25mm (lin) brass hinges Rear door lock 1 off Swing hook and screwed eye Spare wheel 1 off 102mm (4in) diameter road wheel Spare wheel cover 1 off 92mm(3V8in) diameter x1mm(V32in) thick stiff black plastic Felt, various Cut from 457 X 229mm (18 x 9in) 188
REAR BUMPER REAR OUTRIGGER FRONT OUTRIGGER FRONT BUMPER VIEW ON UNDERSIDE OF CHASSIS TO SHOW GENERAL LAYOUT 9(Vs) 22(Ve) =u T FRONT FACE | 6(1/4) t 9(3/8) O) r 33 ■(1®/l6) 16(s/8) “f FRONT OUT RIGGER MAKE TWO REAR OUTRIGGER MAKE TWO 189 41(1®/8)
FIRST CROSS MEMBER SECOND CROSS MEMBER 16(Vfl) n 9(3/8) RADIUS 216(8V2) 5(3/16) RADIUS in 1 16(3/8) 124(4%) 16(®/8) n r ■ 1 - 1 r 6(y4) HAND GRIP MAKE TWO T . 25(1) 98(3V8) !-•-=-^ = ^ 25(1) 1 E 16(3/8) BLIND MORTICE 9(3/8) DEEP ON FRONT FACE REAR BUMPER 2 HOLES 3( col V8) r STEP 5(3/16) THICK HANDGRIPS 44(13/4) \ STEP ASSEMBLY OF HANDGRIPS AND STEP ON REAR BUMPER FRONT BUMPER ASSEMBLY 190 FRONT FACE
20(3/4) 9(3/8) RADIU REAR SPRING REAR BRACKET MAKE FOUR 6(1/4) THICK REAR SPRING FRONT BRACKET MAKE FOUR 6(1/4) THICK FRONT SPRING FRONT BRACKET MAKE FOUR 6(1/4) THICK 20(3/4) SPRING SUPPORT BRACKETS BRACKETS MOUNTED IN PAIRS n11(Vl6) « A r ^ 32(11/4)^ ^/4) 2 HOLES 5(3/16) DIAM SPRING HANGERS MAKE EIGHT 1.5(1/16) THICK CHROMED STEEL TO SUIT SPRING MATERIAL u 16(5/8; 6(1/4) REAR FIXING SPRING CLAMP MAKE EIGHT 1.5(1/16) THICK CHROMED STEEL FRONT SPRING ASSEMBLY MAKE TWO MAKE FROM -16(5/8) WIDE x 1.5(i/i6) THICK SPRING STEEL 2nd LEAF -108(41/4) LONG 3rd LEAF-95(33/4) LONG 4th LEAF-79(31/8) LONG ALSO REQUIRED- FOUR 5(3/16) I/D X 6(1/4) 0/D x 16(5/8) LONG TUBES REAR SPRING ASSEMBLY MAKE TWO MAKE FROM 16(5/8) WIDE x 1.5(i/i6) THICK SPRING STEEL 2nd LEAF -140(51/2) LONG 3rd LEAF-117(45/8) LONG 4th LEAF-102(4) LONG ALSO REQUIRED- FOUR 5(3/16) I/D X 6(1/4) O/D x 16(5/8) LONG TUBES 191
35(1%) 171(6%) 140(572) fllT- =— r 57(274) 57(27^ 4;: -1 38(172) D1 AM aZ-_ SPRING FIXING CENTRES 38(172) ♦——► DIAM :y -l' 9(3/8) DIAM DOWEL 16(5/8) X 25(1) LONG cvi rcvj AXLES-6(74) DIAM X 89(372) LONG STEEL TWO REQUIRED 6(74) DIAM 6(74) DIAM X 9(3/8) DEEP HOLE-SLIGHTLY OVERSIZE AND INCLINED AS SHOWN TO TAKE FRONT WHEEL DRIVE PROP SHAFT AND ALLOW MOVEMENT AS THE SPRINGS DEFLECT FRONT AXLE 9(%) DIAM HOLE INCLINED TO SUIT PROP SHAFT ANGLE FROM REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY - DRILL SLIGHTLY OVERSIZE TO ALLOW MOVEMENT AS SPRINGS DEFLECT REAR DRIVE FLYWHEEL 171(63/4) 140(572) to I SPRING FIXING CENTRES 3- ^eg -rC\J 9(3/8) DIAM DOWEL x 111 (43/8) LONG 57(274) 41(15/8) DIAM AXLES-6(74) DIAM X 89(372) LONG STEEL TWO REQUIRED 6(74) DIAM 9(3/8) DIAM X 12(72) DEEP HOLE, INCLINED AS SHOWN TO TAKE REAR WHEEL DRIVE PROP SHAFT REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY 192